89 Clutch Replacement

[WizBang]

Just joined the forum but have been following fixkick for years. Lots of invaluable material, pics, and tips that have been very much appreciated in resurrecting my favorite vehicle ever.

89 Tracker 8V 4x4 soft top manual 5sp base model

I use it only for hunting but last winter I fabbed a front hitch mount to take a SnowSport 84" snowplow. The plow is probably responsible for bringing my shifting issues to a head.

I have to rip off to work but will update shortly. The tranny and clutch are out and I thought this might be timely to post pics, etc for the benefit of the forum before it all goes back together (cleaner and prettier than it came out).

A parting note of wisdom... replace that leaking distributor O Ring on the back of your block!! More on that later

[fixkick]

hello WIZ! and super welcome.
yes the stock o-ring , is cheap 25cent ring, a viton will last for ever, at a $1
but board behind the distributor before dropping rear cross member or distrub gets busted.

the 8v used the smaller disc
the 5speed make sure the top 2 side rubber plugs are glued in tight or box goes dry. they love to fall out or leak.
so the cable works?" the magic 1 inch travel>

http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/clu...-kick.html

check this out, i think i nailed it.
http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/new...howto.html

[WizBang]

hello WIZ! and super welcome.
yes the stock o-ring , is cheap 25cent ring, a viton will last for ever, at a $1
but board behind the distributor before dropping rear cross member or distrub gets busted.

the 8v used the smaller disc
the 5speed make sure the top 2 side rubber plugs are glued in tight or box goes dry. they love to fall out or leak.
so the cable works?" the magic 1 inch travel>

http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/clu...-kick.html

check this out, i think i nailed it.
http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/new...howto.html

Yes, I believe I put in new viton ring(s) 2 years ago. Last a lifetime? Oh, praise baby Jesus.
I also put on new distributor cap and rotor, new plug wires, new valve cover gasket, and adjusted the valves at that time. Runs smooth as a time share salesman now. HUGE difference! Wonder how many tracks and kicks are suffering with valves that haven't been adjusted for over 100K?

Again, as per your excellent instructions, I cut a piece of 2x4 to protect the distributor but found it blocked access to starter bolts and top R bell housing bolt. Since I had a bush bar on the front I used this method instead:


But watch the anchor points. I loaded the red strap mainly then took up the slack on the blue cinch strap around the intake manifold to balance the pull.


As per the rubber tranny plugs... I have two. These are the two that near the top of the tranny closest to the bell housing. I'll get a pic so the forum can see what you are talking about when recommending to make sure these are there...and glued in.

I also added a dab of "ShoeGoo" to the top of these sensors because a couple of the wires were bare and starting to look weak. ShoeGoo is more thick and rigid than Liquid Electrical Tape so I thought it would work better.


One of my questions is... what the hell are these plugs providing access to? Cause it would sure be nice to securely glue/mechanically fix them in to avoid a mess and a dry tranny.

Now I get to the "3rd plug?" Shouldn't there be one here too?? Near the transfer case? I think I'm missing one here


I hope I was able to get my pics to open in the post

[fixkick]

those are called shift rails..
and drillings when they machine those aluminum castings and bore the rails and detent springs balls etc.
they must then plug the holes back up to seal them most makers use welsch plugs of steel, but suzuki uses rubber, and bad glue
the glue used does not last 29 years, about 1/2 that, so use RTV silicon caulk , home house brand, 50 year rated caulk , on dry clean parts, no oil there.
or the blue RTV sealant. sold for cars, that is also good , alas more expensive

im not sure where this 3rd plug is,
to post images use the BBS codes, in the gallery photos you make.

part id 13 is seen here rubber plugs, and you can see it is for the detent balls clearly (and spring cap bolt on top)

http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/5speed-rebuild.html

add photos here.
to gallery, click gallery top right of page then click transmission, and add photo and then grab BBS code, (cut paste)


this tranny has 3 main parts
the box
the center dry extension casing and 4wd adapter to
the transfer case.
the center case has drain hole slot on the bottom so this casing is dry, at all times. 2 seals do that one for box front and 1 for box transfer case rear;.

Please use the gallery ,its free and works well.

also see here.
the FSM covers this, (1996 should be same)
https://web.archive.org/web/201011191034...7B-pdf.htm

[fixkick]

in many cases the 2 rubbers fall out
the leaks like made and 1 or 2 months latter you have tablespoon of oil left and box burns up.
very common, lacking service chicks every year on right side screw plug 10mm square drive, not 3/8" check levels is at bottom edge of hole threads, every year.
more often if box leaks.
next is tail shaft seal leaks both , there are 2, one on tranfer case end and the 5speed hiddens seal in the dry center case.
those are the 2 or 3 top ways to burn up a box.
and sure the front drive shaft seal too.

[WizBang]

Thank you. So much EXCELLENT information here. The FSM is great. Torque settings very useful.
Okay I'll try to repost the relevant stuff with the pics again. Hope I uploaded pics into the proper area of the gallery. Not sure if they should have gone into my personal gallery or to the main forum [TRANSMISSION] gallery?

Again, as per your excellent instructions, I cut a piece of 2x4 to protect the distributor


but found it blocked access to starter bolts and top R bell housing bolt. Since I had a bush bar on the front I used this method instead:


But watch the anchor points. I loaded the red strap mainly then took up the slack on the blue cinch strap around the intake manifold to balance the pull.


As per the rubber tranny plugs... I have two. These are the two that near the top of the tranny closest to the bell housing RED ARROWS I'll get a pic so the forum can see what you are talking about when recommending to make sure these are there...and glued in.
I also added a dab of "ShoeGoo" to the top of these sensors CIRCLED YELLOW because a couple of the wires were bare and starting to look weak. ShoeGoo is more thick and rigid than Liquid Electrical Tape so I thought it would work better.


Now I get to the "3rd plug?" Shouldn't there be one here too?? Near the transfer case? I think I'm missing one here.
Blue gloves and rubber bands work excellent to keep smelly GL4 from escaping!

[WizBang]

Here's a couple of other methods I found helpful on the tranny drop:

I bolted 1 inch plywood 10x16 inches to the bottom of the tranny. There were a couple of bolts already on the bottom of my tranny possibly for a factory skid plate option. Anyway I used these as an attach point at the tail of the tranny which made a huge difference in stabilizing the tranny from rolling. Remember to recess the bolt holes so it can lay flat on the floor. A piece of 2x4 is necessary to shim between the front end of the plywood and the tranny.



A redneck tail support using newfound top access hole where shifters used to be. The cinch strap worked great on the tail end and negated the need for a jack. The tail isn't that heavy and can easily be lowered and secured from underneath using the cinch lock.


I used a ratchet strap to cradle the front end of the tranny once it dropped off the block. I think I'd use a cinch strap here instead next time because the cinch lock allows you to lower and lock the position. I'll definitely use the ratchet strap to lift the tranny back up into position on reinstall to the block though

[fixkick]

nice clear photos thanks and make this easy
we just tie wrap bailing wire the 2x4 to rear of dizzy(distrib) so the 2'" is up and 4" against the distrib body, and sure cap rotor off
this allows the trail shaft of tranny and cross member drop to not crush mr,. dizzy and sure not wanting to re- time that beast.
those are the transmission switches on top REV and 5th gear.
the ECU changes modes in 5th, over drive has its own injector tuning
the REV makes the backup lamps work
holy mackerel what is that transfer case hole empty. that hole not threaded, if is that is the filler port, a 10mm square drive same as 5sp uses and bottom of both cases.
can a small screw driver blade go deep in that hole? 2 to 4 inches. or just 1/2" use flashlight look hole and see chain?

our fillers 91 up on transfer
are both on the rear. casing fasting aft
my guess is 89 are different.

the 92 + has 2 same p/n plugs. ending in 16010
91 and older the top pug ends in 009
09246-16009 (upper plug and show threaded) suzuki parts online shows upgraded number to both same, 16010


so where are both service plugs on the transfer case
there should be 2 one to drain and one to fill
on 91 Plus both are pipe threaded,(metric pitch too)
ill now look in the parts listing I have , complete here
so what is in that hole, just wall of aluminum or goes into case;

sorry I have no 89 case photos, only 91,96/97

with it pulled this is what you see

[fixkick]

btw, I do love all redneck , ways, home made anything, I like.

to do a clutch all one needs to do is (besides obvious, cables wires off and 2 prop shafts, drained xfr case first.)
out the distrib or the board only 2" from fire all the 2" stops further lean back
drop the crossmember, using trolley jack and then with tail end fully low, all bell bolts can be reached. easy. the engine has its own mounts and float there.

the only side mission to help some who dont like the full weight if the 5sp and transfer case? (your call)
so unbolts the transfer case from center case rear (the hidden bolt on top of case under the 5speed shifter extension housing blocks that and hides that.
if want to remove center case now, for even lighter job;.

remove the TOP bell bolts x2 last, or bad happens
dont let the box roll on you or risk pinched hands etc.

that is it. in a nut shell.

[fixkick]

im installing new viton rear main crank seal(brown coded)
and later new viton o-rings for distrib. they do last forever, if not messed with unlike stock turns hard as nails and cracks viton will never do that.

you can see clearly the side irons for tranny, mount to engine. one if first things off are the iron side mounts, they look like a lazy "S" shape these irons.

hope this helps.