2002 Tracker / Vitara No Start Issue - Engine Swapped but Ran

[Matty_Robz]

Hello all,

I usually never need to post in forums asking for help. Im pretty good at googling stuff but I haven't been able to find this issue in any of the forums yet and hoping someone can throw me a bone or something over here.

[b]Important Info:[/b]
2002 Chevy Tracker 2.0 (J20)
Automatic
Just finished swapping engines. Engine ran rough for short period of time while idling. Next morning would not start.
Has Spark - Tested all 4 by grounding spark plug and cranking.
Has Fuel - Spark Plugs are wet after trying to crank for a while.
Hooked up Scan tool to view live data. Nothing out of ordinary
IAT and ECT are the same after I let the vehicle sit.
RPM will go up when cranking but nothing past 300


[b]Engine History:[/b]

Timing chain decided to snap on me a few weeks ago. Towed it home did a leakdown test and found bent valves. on cyl 2/4 (Checks out with the firing order). Pulled a replacement one at the wreckers with a buddy that was scrapped for rusted out frame. When I got home I took the timing cover off and oil pan off to inspect everything. Engine was clean, chain was timed right, and looked nice. Cleaned up the engine, sanded it down, and painted it all for practice. Sidenote : I'm in the process of starting to build an engine for my 2004 Volvo S60R. The goal is to hit 500 HP next year. So I figured this would be the perfect opportunity to brush up on my painting skills. Changed all the gaskets, RTB'd the pan and timing cover, let it sit for 2 days to make sure it was cured. Replaced all the rubber lines, cleaned the bay, like a full week long cleanup of everything. Working from home has its perks. Last engine was leaking oil like a tanker in the ocean. some smartass broke the timing cover once upon a time and JB welded it back together... Apparently its already gone through and engine before I got it too. So it was a mess and a half.
[b]
After Engine Swap:[/b]

Long story short engine went in and I had grounding issues from the starter bolt because I painted the metal plate that sits between the transmission bellhousing and the engine like a rookie. Pulled the engine, sanded it down in that one spot and threw it back in. Engine started up but was really rough, but healthy if that makes sense. Idled for about 20 minutes and would die here and there but it would start back up. At times I would have to hot foot it / feather the gas pedal while cranking it to get it started but it would run, but rough. My buddy (Who is a master mechanic for 20+ years) thought my ignition timing may be off so he moved the camshaft synchronyser (See Image Below) while the engine was running and found a more ideal spot that made it run better but it was still rough. He played with a few sensors and did a few more tests and said it was either timing or it was dumping fuel from the injectors. We ended the night off with the engine getting up to temp and the car bogging out and dying on us. We both called it a night and figured maybe it went out of time somehow or something is just loose?

FYI- Went I painted the[b] camshaft synchronyser below,[/b] it left a paint mark, so yes I know where the original position is. I wouldnt have let him move it if there wasnt a mark. I left that part out for dramatic effect [img=22x22]data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7[/img]





[b]More Troubleshooting
[/b]
I went to the truck this morning to start it and it wouldnt crank over. Battery was good, checked for spark again, cleared the codes (There was none), checked the live data before and while cranking, everything looked good. I have a second tracker (2001) that I have a plow on. It has an earlier style Intake system that I guess was revised in 2002, but other than that its identical. I borrowed all the sensors from the KNOWN-WORKING Truck (Cam Posititon, IAT, MAP, TPS, MAF, I even changed the EGR with a new gasket) and swapped them in one at a time into the NO-START truck and it still wouldnt start. I put all the sensors from the NO-START truck into the KNOWN-WORKING truck and it started no problem and ran like a charm. Only thing I have yet to do is swap the coil packs and plugs over, but I know I have spark and its not a weak one so I don't think its that.

I've been reading forums all last night and this morning and some extensive google searching brought me to this post.;
"02 Aerio - HELP!!

This video basically sums up where im at with this truck. I've done all these tests hes done up to the part where he hooks up the meter to check the injector pulse and signal from the starter and sees if they sync up. (I understand when the video explains it, but this is just a little bit past my knowledge level to explain it.) I know believe my timing chain (Which I made sure was in time when I pulled the cover off to inspect it- I was going to return the engine and go pull another one if the chain or guides looked abused). I did rotate the engine when reconnecting the torq converter bolts but I've always done that with engine swaps and never had a problem. Also it ran and turned for about 20 mins or so before it turned off. I have gotten it to almost start this morning, but no luck. I tried briefly to crank it this morning (20 secs or so of total cranking over 5 tries) but I didnt want to flood the plugs again. Took them out and their on my bench. Their not bad I just want to make sure all the gas leaves the chamber so I can start fresh again next time I head out.

So I'm at my wits end with this truck. I know to time it I need to fix the ignition timing by grounding a test switch like below, but my truck DOES NOT have this monitor coupler. It is not on the driver side fender, nor it is on the passenger side near or around the fuse box. My other tracker with the plow does have it on the driver side fender.... (I dont really wanna go that route. This engine has already been in and out 3 times. Only 1 time because of my own stupidity, and the other two because we couldnt get all the dowels to allign.)



So without this cap and obviously no access to this magical suzuki scan tool I'm a little stuck when it comes to setting timing. My Buddy (the Master Tech) has a timing gun and everything else, just not a tech1. 



I found one on Ebay thats not too far away from me for a decent price, but its untested and I dont think the cartridge it has covers my car (Cartridge # 3000003 Version 3.2 ) I also have the option of getting a Tech 2 clone off Alibaba for the same price. I know a local shop that recently ordered a different scanner from the same seller and they delivered it in about a months time.

BUTT Before I can convince myself to buy this scan tool, I need to know if theres anything else I can possibly check. I called an old suzuki dealership thats now Mitsubishi and they said it would be about 150-250 to time the engine with their tool. They still have this mythical suzuki scan tool but didnt want to sell it or rent it to me. I'm just not trying to pay a tow bill on top of everything I've already spent. I love this truck but this is my winter beater. I can't spend any more money on this thing haha. It would be 1.5 - 2.0 hrs of labour, not reasonable in my opinion since everything is accessible but okay. For that price I can just spend 250 and buy the knockoff tool or pay a little bit more for an outdated Tech 1.

[b]So hopefully some grand wizzard of Suzuki / J20 engines is here and can shed some light on my situation.[/b]

-Is there somewhere on the harness that this monitor couple comes from that I can tap into. I'm very good at electrical repairs and have made custom harnesses for many cars before. I wouldn't mind even going to the wreckers, getting one one with a monitor couple and splicing it in for future use if ever needed again.

-Is it possible that my timing chain jumped out of time with all the times weve played with the timing (Moving the angle of the CPS)

-Am I fucked and need this scan tool to reset my timing.

-I'm pretty much at this part in the video but I dont have the tools to measure the timing. I could go buy one if I can see myself using it in the future but I dont really work to this extent on vehicles that are not my own. I will do the odd brake job / Axle change, wheel bearing, suspension work, starter, alternator, but nothing too messy or requiring more than 4-5 hours. I can ask some friends if they have these tools, but I dont think so.

Picture from Suzuki FSM of how the ignition triger and CMP Serensor should look.




Tell me someone has the answers I need?

[fixkick]

so the engine never once , done a real compression test to see 199PSI WOT. this must happen.
then if spark is good on all 4, and not advance before degrees, TDC,
the engine will will runs on test fuel even with fuel pump off line, fuse pulled.
it must run with good timed right spark or the engine is bad.
needs spark , sprayed test fuel air low (throttle open a tad) and CAT not melted closed.
the sensors never kill dead cranking ever.
to use scan tool crank for 10 full seconds release the key (not off) and wait for scan tool to show P03xx codes, if yes BINGO spark is bad. (even intermittant)
CMP or CKP codes are for sure bad spark.
the COP boots (lower) are no good this is tune up device point.
the engine must be good, compression test,
then vaccum test cranked over to not see 0 HG vacuum or the CAT is melted. (or cam timed backwards etc)
you need kill injection first then do test fuel so you see engine run for 3 second each blast of test fuel (instant start in a can sold in store)
the car may have the DLC 2 connect right near left front strut tower, this rubber cap off see 6 pins and the 2 are timing freeze and is how you set timing , but my nasty 2004 is only way to do that is with suzuki only scan tool, DLC 2 freeze pins GONE, the bastards.

I see you have bad grounds they all must be clean and tight.
the starter only for (good starter and battery )_ for clutch switch failed or relay or automatic trans Park neutal switch bad or fuse to it or relay makes starter.
OMG AREO parts in this car,. the CRANK sensors tone wheel are not the same, to Vitara. nor is the ECU, same , radically different.

you can not just throw j20 engines about, car to car.
first i check compression on engine on pallet first. using starter mounted, and my trans bell, housing, no trans told to me.
the compressiong good then swap
but not yet,
we then look at the CKP crank tone wheel mounted to crank snout.
and it must match the old one exactly.
not like this, seen my page.
see photo next.
I say bad spark , wild spark sure hot and powerful but not timing anywhere right and not off doing CMP cam sensor spun wild. ouch 2 times wrong that.

[fixkick]

the classic error seen is putting Esteem engine in Tracker sidekick.
100% dead to nuts wrong tone wheel on the Esteem and the ECU on the sidekicks goes MAD.
the sidekick is even spaced teeth but not the Esteem. Geo,
same engine end to end but not this one part,  and is easy fix engine on pallet from wrecker.  (j20 harder sure)
this is just 1 example of spark evolution, that can NOT BE MIXED,  horrid results. CHAOS/

I guess your CKP is not  here below, like J18 and CKP is behind the flywheel (A/T spider) and that parts that spider must match your ECU and sensor to it.
the  wrong cam sensor too makes this fail. and it too evolved.

NOTyours, this is to expose the radial changes on just 1 engine, G16 hear but this goes on up the line all suzuki; spark is not the same parts. not even close if you see what I mean below.

[fixkick]

now tell me exactly what car this engine (new) came out of.
year and all facts,  displacement, ,

there are at least 3 to 4 generations of J20 and J18 1996 first.
the J20B and all generations have  there own spark and ECU parts, for sure CMP and CKP/
not just the sensor but the things that spins that the sensor measures.
does both engines have 4 cops or just 2, with wasted spark technology?????  they did both. that is a fact and can not be mixed up, (ECU will done)

think not only of sensor but what it measure.
also learn to use a timing light.
and at all 4 sparkplugs, get  spark plug extender and yes new boots for cops.
and see it fire in the correct firing order, 1,3,4,2
I the crank pulley put 2 marks there, in chock.  one on the real mark and one 180degrees on pulley new chock marked
even dead engine can be crank timed, sure can there is spark cranked.
so the timing light works.

top real mark is 1,4,
and 180d mark new is 3,2
so with inductive pick up 1 it lands on top mark, factory mark.
then on #4 same.
the on spark 3 lands 180d out.
the on 2 spark lands on 180d out mark.

that proves correct timing
also not flashing the strobe on false marks, not land on 0 mark or 180 mark but wild. that to is failed timing. (CMP  bad?) cam sensor bad or what is inside it. that turns messed up.


wrong engine but same timing.

[fixkick]

recap
fuel pump disabled.
compression at 199psi spec or close, hot spec cold is tad less.
vacuum not stuck zero. cranked, melted cat , happens, if this far engine is usually good. and then.
runs on test fuel , good, progress we work that. all fuses good. all ground to EFI all good, ecu spark all that.
does not run on test fuel bad engine or spark totally screwed, you know it is not dead but timing is king, cannot burn gasoline lacking timed spark. not well or not at all.

learn to use a timing light in the full measure on all 4 spark plug boots. with the cop extender tool. do you have 4 cops or 2 in 1 caps./?????????????????????? before and after new engine.
is the CKP in place behind the fly wheel, and the AT spider (flex plate) same as old engine or wrong one from new engine there, dang that be tragic.
the spider has a punched out hole set to fire off the CKP do not mix up parts. here.

engine good, fails test fuel is bad spark, cat not melted, engines are air pumps if the cat melts it can not pump air. and will be dead or 10% power.

I am not sure what is behind all CMP cam sensor s, if the cam end has different ends there, not seen them all ,me.
the new engine does not have , VVT timing device on right cam does and now in a car with no VVT? variable vavlfe timing, , seen on hear J20B , like AERIO, is this your engine yes, what year.
wish I knew donor car so I can look all this up..

[fixkick]

what donor car, make and year and model.
what?
I bet way newer, and is not the same, as is normal with  suzuki and VVT options on newer J20 for sure J20B
same spider used (A/T from old)
see CKP before change out and make darn sure to use new CKP , or risk pulling engine just to fix that.
CKP does not just fall out, you must pull engine or trans or both to reach it.

some super new J20b (im getting old) have this crazy CKP on right side (IIRC) CKP sensor to the side of the block that is useless on any 2001 J20A car.
J20 A is not a J20B.
lots of changes.
or the Aerio 2007, J23 engine.


AERIO , it is? was?
2001 to 2007
only N.ameria had J20b.

i guess long block swap, not manifold, not TBI, not other AERIO things, just block ./head, and used old trans with old spider flex coupling.
one more the GV has tone wheels front and read j20. oops front is chain sprocket.
and rear one is tooth notched wild.  2005 to 2019



J20 means little at all, lacking year and engine serial too. engine year is encoded in serial. USA.


one guy posted 2002 Aerio engine j20 looks just like the above, wild rear tone.
that sure is not a 2001. vitara. or the like names. GEO .
tranny clutch on the right. tone wheel, has radial notches, and super hidden deep inside behind rear oil seal.
i bet yours is wrong, here.

that means engine on pallet, cam cover off,
and not VVT new engine.
and rear tone not wrong,  full  of notches missing or different in ANY WAY., remove oil seal rear some how.

that is it for timing,  sorry it is so complex but is, for 11 span ,1996 to 2007, years, only are not the same. unless year model matched.
J20 is just  base line name, 2.0a or B or VVT.

[Matty_Robz]

Im currently at work but Ill start replying in bits and pieces with the most important stuff i feel you want.

Donor car : 2002 Chev Tracker 2.0L. I was lucky enough to find the exact same model and year at the scrapyard as my truck.

If by  CKP you mean this   I did not remove remove it. I left the original one on the engine. I did switch flywheels though. The one from the wreckers got bent when I was trying to split it from the truck. 


All bad grounds were fixed. The started was the only one with a bad ground. I taped the rest of the ground up before painting the block. 

Both engines were identical so that rules out a lot of issues. I am aware of the differences in engines and platforms of the J20. I was originally planning on getting an aerio motor but after some research I found it was just easier finding a tracker. 

Cat is fine, I inspected it when I removed the engine. 

I believe plugs and coils are fine. I have a good known working set from my plow truck i will swap in to test. 

Tried using gas in the intake an no go. Then I tried brake cleaner (non-chlorinated) and still no start. It wanted to but it didnt. I think plugs were wet at that point. 

Ill try cranking with my scan tool on again for 10 secs and see if it gets any codes. Should I disconnect fuel pump fuse when i do this or leave it in? Dont want to flood the engine.

I believe its running to rich. You can smell fuel vapours in the air when it tries to start. 

Have to go back to work. will reply with more info. Will be testing tonight.

My friend is comming over with his timing light and he is going to show me how to use it. He is a master tech for 20+ years, I just dont know how to set it without the DLC connector. I may have to buy a tech 1

[fixkick]

j20 cam sensor moved to right rear cam from left rear, 2007
big change there,I guess for VVT.
top builder if engine shows 45 generations of J20, 2012 last.
1996 J18 first.
I got the master part list up
Aero parts, CMP cam sensor left side is not same as any 2001 vitara.
vitara 2001 is cmp = 65d00
Aerio cmp is 77e20 03 to 05 years. (no donor year told so tried ths)
not even close.

CKP crank senors same, to 05.'
but not crank not sure why but if rear tone will changed, oops.

[fixkick]

Im currently at work but Ill start replying in bits and pieces with the most important stuff i feel you want.

Donor car : 2002 Chev Tracker 2.0L. I was lucky enough to find the exact same model and year at the scrapyard as my truck.

If by  CKP you mean this   I did not remove remove it. I left the original one on the engine. I did switch flywheels though. The one from the wreckers got bent when I was trying to split it from the truck.  CKP is crank sensor.
OK no AERIO here, false lead.


All bad grounds were fixed. The started was the only one with a bad ground. I taped the rest of the ground up before painting the block. 

Both engines were identical so that rules out a lot of issues. I am aware of the differences in engines and platforms of the J20. I was originally planning on getting an aerio motor but after some research I found it was just easier finding a tracker. 

Cat is fine, I inspected it when I removed the engine. 

I believe plugs and coils are fine. I have a good known working set from my plow truck i will swap in to test. 

Tried using gas in the intake an no go.
Then I tried brake cleaner (non-chlorinated) and still no start. It wanted to but it didnt. I think plugs were wet at that point. 
this is wrong to use, some is fire proof,  now.  just like WD40 remove propane gas not it dont burn.

use real starting fluid or real gas. please.

Ill try cranking with my scan tool on again for 10 secs and see if it gets any codes. crank , and release key ,do not turn off for full minute , even push pending button on scan tool.
the book says 11 turns of crankshaft, no human can count to 11 at 300RPM, so 10 seconds, sure. do not want to miss P03xx codes of any kind.

Should I disconnect fuel pump fuse when i do this or leave it in? Dont want to flood the engine.
pull the fuel pump relay kills all pump actions and now zero fuel flows, no chance of folding and then use real; not fake test fuel. my gosh. do not use brake cleaner.
make the goal test fuel works as it should even hold throttle open a tad, for more air incase  ISC/IAC air flow devices are dead, the engine needs air to start too.
on my 2004 it had only 1 ISC valve did all idle air, and if dead none.

I believe its running to rich. You can smell fuel vapours in the air when it tries to start. 
then pull the fuel pump relay ending all fuell flow, and all flooding then crank wot.  the magic free unflood mode per users manual.
then when dry do test fuel use only real fuel (in spray can from autostore is best,) putting gasoline in old windex bottle melts its plastic and boom all bad there.



Have to go back to work. will reply with more info. Will be testing tonight.

My friend is coming over with his timing light and he is going to show me how to use it. He is a master tech for 20+ years, I just dont know how to set it without the DLC connector. I may have to buy a tech 1

you do not need any tech one ever. it is only a waste of time and huge cash outlay use a real OBD2 full scan tool with pending button.
the only time needed this is for ABS or for some years (2004) with no timing freeze DLC 2, under hood,.

if compression is good.  great
but if horrible no EFI on earth can run a dead engine, nor an carb.  199psi good 50 bad, my lawn mower does 100, my VWbug same, and my old outboard motor 100.
180 cold is my guess times 4 and let the needle peak, WOT ,just block open throttle , fuel pump relay never plugged tell spark test far below.
in school they teach do basics first that means make sure first the engine is good, viable. It must pump air.  
if cat melted or ISC valve stuck closed it will never pump air, ever.
then run on test fuel with fuel  pump relay still pulled.  (crank wot to dry it out)
if must run on test fuel  NOW, or spark is wrong.  all the power of spark in the world is useless timed wrong, or 1 or both CMP/CKP going wild.

make sure the CmP cam sensor is not the wrong one. ending in 65D00,   (left rear of cam)

the engine must not be flooded, per above and how to remove flooding
and then must run on test fuel if it does not , engine is bad or spark is bad.  All engines run on test fuel even sparkless diesels.

once here in this ordered flow of tests, then we test spark deep checked to prove it is not bad and is timed correctly and to make sure all 4 plugs spark in correct tidied order,
1,3,4,2 (firing order must) do not mix up COP wired input cables.  you have 4 COPs, USA.
what if this donor engine had wrong parts installed,  expect anything from any wrecker.
to do that do the tests, skip none and do them in the correct order.

if does not crank grab the A/t shift lever, step on brake pedal and shift  to N and crank if it cranks the PNDRL switch is bad , in the P position;
real starting fluid burns,
watch scotty
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=064Ilsz8Fzg

ignore fuel pressure test, but sure it must be in spec.
if say the fuel FPR regulator fuel return line clogs fuel pressure goes to 2 times normal and the engine flood for ever.

that is the 2nd reason to use test fuel on a dry engine, fuel pump relay pulled.  and repeat like 3 to 5 times, hear engine sound normal and  stall each time as Scotty just did.
if it sounds great then forget spark,
and see of fuel pressure is wrong, wrong is 60PSI, dead WRONG.

[Matty_Robz]

Tried using gas in the intake an no go.
Then I tried brake cleaner (non-chlorinated) and still no start. It wanted to but it didnt. I think plugs were wet at that point. 
this is wrong to use, some is fire proof,  now.  just like WD40 remove propane gas not it dont burn.

use real starting fluid or real gas. please.

-I did try with gas last night and it was a no go. I do think the engine was flooded again because the plugs came out a little wet. WOT may have cleared the cyclinders, but plugs were still a little wet. 

I tried with propane quickly this morning and it made a few combustions, but did not actually start and stall out. 

Ill try cranking with my scan tool on again for 10 secs and see if it gets any codes. crank , and release key ,do not turn off for full minute , even push pending button on scan tool.
the book says 11 turns of crankshaft, no human can count to 11 at 300RPM, so 10 seconds, sure. do not want to miss P03xx codes of any kind.

I did this multiple times and its not throwing any codes.

Should I disconnect fuel pump fuse when i do this or leave it in? Dont want to flood the engine.
pull the fuel pump relay kills all pump actions and now zero fuel flows, no chance of folding and then use real; not fake test fuel. my gosh. do not use brake cleaner.
make the goal test fuel works as it should even hold throttle open a tad, for more air incase  ISC/IAC air flow devices are dead, the engine needs air to start too.
on my 2004 it had only 1 ISC valve did all idle air, and if dead none.

I tried to pull the fuse and crank it, but the engine light turns off without the fuel pump fuse in. I had to pull the fuse and disconnect the injector harness.

I believe its running to rich. You can smell fuel vapours in the air when it tries to start. 
then pull the fuel pump relay ending all fuell flow, and all flooding then crank wot.  the magic free unflood mode per users manual.
then when dry do test fuel use only real fuel (in spray can from autostore is best,) putting gasoline in old windex bottle melts its plastic and boom all bad there.

- I will go pick some up today after work. 


Have to go back to work. will reply with more info. Will be testing tonight.

My friend is coming over with his timing light and he is going to show me how to use it. He is a master tech for 20+ years, I just dont know how to set it without the DLC connector. I may have to buy a tech 1

you do not need any tech one ever. it is only a waste of time and huge cash outlay use a real OBD2 full scan tool with pending button.
the only time needed this is for ABS or for some years (2004) with no timing freeze DLC 2, under hood,.

I have a pretty good scanner MaxiDiag Elite MD802 ( I made it link to the webpage) It can do complete scans of all modules, EPB, Oil reset, ect. Only thing it cant do is program modules and special functions in some modules. I took a look into the live data in the ECM and found spark timing was set to 5 degrees no mater what when I was cranking. 


My compressor tester is currently missing. I lent it to someone and can't remember who I  lent it to. im going to pick up another one after work today with the starting fluid. I'm really hoping its no that... It did start and run for 20-30 mins when I first cranked it, it just sounded like fuel or timing was way off. 

Im thinking I may need to go find another engine at the wreckers... which I hope isnt the case. Its a pain in the ass trying to pull this engine there.


OHH I also split the exhaust manifold from the downpipe. Cat is basically brand new (2 yrs old) and nothing blocking it. Still honeycombs and cant see any blockage. I left it apart while I tried to crank it, but it didnt make much of a difference. 

if compression is good.  great
but if horrible no EFI on earth can run a dead engine, nor an carb.  199psi good 50 bad, my lawn mower does 100, my VWbug same, and my old outboard motor 100.
180 cold is my guess times 4 and let the needle peak, WOT ,just block open throttle , fuel pump relay never plugged tell spark test far below.
in school they teach do basics first that means make sure first the engine is good, viable. It must pump air.  
if cat melted or ISC valve stuck closed it will never pump air, ever.
then run on test fuel with fuel  pump relay still pulled.  (crank wot to dry it out)
if must run on test fuel  NOW, or spark is wrong.  all the power of spark in the world is useless timed wrong, or 1 or both CMP/CKP going wild.

I believe the issue is spark related. Double check the plugs, their gaped to 1.1mil as they should be.


make sure the CmP cam sensor is not the wrong one. ending in 65D00,   (left rear of cam) - Checked

the engine must not be flooded, per above and how to remove flooding
and then must run on test fuel if it does not , engine is bad or spark is bad.  All engines run on test fuel even sparkless diesels.

- On propane it combusted a couple times but did not turn over and stall. I can order new plugs and try them, but the plugs I have look pretty good still. 

-Swapped coil packs with ones that were known good and still no difference. 

once here in this ordered flow of tests, then we test spark deep checked to prove it is not bad and is timed correctly and to make sure all 4 plugs spark in correct tidied order,
1,3,4,2 (firing order must) do not mix up COP wired input cables.  you have 4 COPs, USA.
-Next to impossible to mix the COP order. Wires are too short to mix up.
what if this donor engine had wrong parts installed,  expect anything from any wrecker.
to do that do the tests, skip none and do them in the correct order.
-I only used the block and a few other misc pieces from the wrecker engine (Crank sensor thats on the flywheel, waterpump, and Coolant sensor- i broke my old one trying to get it off my old block). Everything else including the intake manifold, and accessories are from the old truck.

if does not crank grab the A/t shift lever, step on brake pedal and shift  to N and crank if it cranks the PNDRL switch is bad , in the P position;
real starting fluid burns,
watch scotty
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=064Ilsz8Fzg

- I love scotty, watch him all the time. Im from toronto where he grew up. I tried starting in Park and Neutral and both yielded the same results. no start.

ignore fuel pressure test, but sure it must be in spec.
if say the fuel FPR regulator fuel return line clogs fuel pressure goes to 2 times normal and the engine flood for ever.

-I opened the fuel return line and had someone crank the engine. Fuel was being sent back to tank. Now how m,uch fuel should be going back im not sure. But I would think that its the right amount. 

that is the 2nd reason to use test fuel on a dry engine, fuel pump relay pulled.  and repeat like 3 to 5 times, hear engine sound normal and  stall each time as Scotty just did.
if it sounds great then forget spark,
and see of fuel pressure is wrong, wrong is 60PSI, dead WRONG.

My buddy was too tired to come over last night with his timing light. He said hell come over tonight after hes done. 

If you can think of any other tests let me know. Im open to anything at this point. Ive had 2 certified mechanics come by that have both 20+ years of experience.