2.3 DOHC motor - correct operating temp

[thebanjoman]

let  me say things for sharing CSV,  nothing can be better, logging OBD2,
some shops have OBD2 tools that allow adding aux. sensors like a thermistor (ECT#2) to the water pump housing...

 Life got in the way with family members  in the hospital and such, Finally got back to the project.

 3 Row radiator and Stant thermostat installed.  Pulled new data and temps look much better,  

 Still need to do some more testing but I might have the temps under control.

wow that looks way better, it is not wild like before just small 20f variants under some loads.
not too bad.  lots of work but in the end you get a great car and good engine
cheers to you !

It was only a 15 minute trip around the neighborhood and I will need some more drive time and collect more data but I'm holding out hope that this going to solve the problem.

[thebanjoman]

let  me say things for sharing CSV,  nothing can be better, logging OBD2,
some shops have OBD2 tools that allow adding aux. sensors like a thermistor (ECT#2) to the water pump housing...

 Life got in the way with family members  in the hospital and such, Finally got back to the project.

 3 Row radiator and Stant thermostat installed.  Pulled new data and temps look much better,  

 Still need to do some more testing but I might have the temps under control.

wow that looks way better, it is not wild like before just small 20f variants under some loads.
not too bad.  lots of work but in the end you get a great car and good engine
cheers to you !

It was only a 15 minute trip around the neighborhood and I will need some more drive time and collect more data but I'm holding out hope that this going to solve the problem.

Several days of driving, no issues  Temps would climb at a long stop light to 221 but drop immediately back to 206 once I start driving again.  

I think my problem is solved.   Onto the next issue.

Thank you for helping me sort out this frustrating problem.  I learned a lot along the way.



I now get to figure out a P1875 code that pops up from time to time,  Time to get under and start inspecting wires and connections to start with.

[fixkick]

let  me say things for sharing CSV,  nothing can be better, logging OBD2,
some shops have OBD2 tools that allow adding aux. sensors like a thermistor (ECT#2) to the water pump housing...

 Life got in the way with family members  in the hospital and such, Finally got back to the project.

 3 Row radiator and Stant thermostat installed.  Pulled new data and temps look much better,  

 Still need to do some more testing but I might have the temps under control.

wow that looks way better, it is not wild like before just small 20f variants under some loads.
not too bad.  lots of work but in the end you get a great car and good engine
cheers to you !

It was only a 15 minute trip around the neighborhood and I will need some more drive time and collect more data but I'm holding out hope that this going to solve the problem.

Several days of driving, no issues  Temps would climb at a long stop light to 221 but drop immediately back to 206 once I start driving again.  

I think my problem is solved.   Onto the next issue.

Thank you for helping me sort out this frustrating problem.  I learned a lot along the way.



I now get to figure out a P1875 code that pops up from time to time,  Time to get under and start inspecting wires and connections to start with.

great
  p1874 P1 means factory only code suz

a bad 4wd switch or connector to it rusty

[thebanjoman]

 Life got in the way with family members  in the hospital and such, Finally got back to the project.

 3 Row radiator and Stant thermostat installed.  Pulled new data and temps look much better,  

 Still need to do some more testing but I might have the temps under control.

wow that looks way better, it is not wild like before just small 20f variants under some loads.
not too bad.  lots of work but in the end you get a great car and good engine
cheers to you !

It was only a 15 minute trip around the neighborhood and I will need some more drive time and collect more data but I'm holding out hope that this going to solve the problem.

Several days of driving, no issues  Temps would climb at a long stop light to 221 but drop immediately back to 206 once I start driving again.  

I think my problem is solved.   Onto the next issue.

Thank you for helping me sort out this frustrating problem.  I learned a lot along the way.



I now get to figure out a P1875 code that pops up from time to time,  Time to get under and start inspecting wires and connections to start with.

great
  p1874 P1 means factory only code suz

a bad 4wd switch or connector to it rusty

This ones going to be a bit of a challenge.  Only happens after sitting overnight and within the 1st mile after leaving the house.   I clear the code when I get to the office and she's good for the day.  I leave the office grounds for lunch and driving home after work and it doesn't trip.  

So far this has happened the last 2 mornings, It seems a repeatable event but again, I have to get more details.

Won't be able to get under and check the connectors and wires until the weekend.   

What would my life be these days if I wasn't chasing down Suzuki problems..

[thebanjoman]

Fixkick. 

Thank you so much for working with me helping me to understand my vehicle and my J23 swap. 

I FINALLY FOUND MY TEMP PROBLEMS WITH MY J23 motor in my 1998 Sport.   

The problem was the HEATER CORE!!!  That and I *THINK* I never got the system fully purged of air.

The Heater core was low flow and I replaced it (pulling the dash was a NIGHTMARE but I got it done) I think the bad core never allowed me to fully purge all the air. 

So. 

New Heater Core
Volvo 850 2 speed fan - baking pan shroud.
Volvo Relay fan controller
Motorad 2040-180 high flow thermostat
BMW 2 Speed fan switch  (1st speed 95C 2nd speed 99C)
Standard 50/50 Mix (I was running 60/40) 

Once I finally got the air bled out of the system  (pain it was) the  temps were great. It was 55F outside on a sunny March day in Virginia USA and the temps were fine.

Car runs about 185-190 at 70 Mph and creeps up to about 204 or so at a stoplight then the temp switch kicks the fan on the first speed.  

Temps dropped down to 190 before the light changed and I was on my way.

I got home and stopped the vehicle and let it idle.  She would creep up, 1st speed of the fan kicked on and then the temps dropped and she cut off.  

Before temps would just keep climbing at idle. I think there was still air in the system.

SO I think I'm good for now. as we come into summer and the temps rise we'll see how things continue to work out.

I just had to keep at it for finding the problem. glad I did.

[fixkick]

Fixkick. 

Thank you so much for working with me helping me to understand my vehicle and my J23 swap. 

I FINALLY FOUND MY TEMP PROBLEMS WITH MY J23 motor in my 1998 Sport.   

The problem was the HEATER CORE!!!  That and I *THINK* I never got the system fully purged of air.

The Heater core was low flow and I replaced it (pulling the dash was a NIGHTMARE but I got it done) I think the bad core never allowed me to fully purge all the air. 

So. 

New Heater Core
Volvo 850 2 speed fan - baking pan shroud.
Volvo Relay fan controller
Motorad 2040-180 high flow thermostat
BMW 2 Speed fan switch  (1st speed 95C 2nd speed 99C)
Standard 50/50 Mix (I was running 60/40) 

Once I finally got the air bled out of the system  (pain it was) the  temps were great. It was 55F outside on a sunny March day in Virginia USA and the temps were fine.

Car runs about 185-190 at 70 Mph and creeps up to about 204 or so at a stoplight then the temp switch kicks the fan on the first speed.  

Temps dropped down to 190 before the light changed and I was on my way.

I got home and stopped the vehicle and let it idle.  She would creep up, 1st speed of the fan kicked on and then the temps dropped and she cut off.  

Before temps would just keep climbing at idle. I think there was still air in the system.

SO I think I'm good for now. as we come into summer and the temps rise we'll see how things continue to work out.

I just had to keep at it for finding the problem. glad I did.

nice or and job.
those temps look good for sure parked, and no car moving air flow is perfect test.
this car need free flowing  cab core, or it bypassed with full sized free flowing hose in the place of core, as one sees say in key  west FL.
thanks for sharing!!!!