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1995 tracker
Please help. Long story short, I have a 95 geo tracker 4x4 manual 16 valve 2 door.it went under water the ecm was submerged for about 10 min. It will start up for a few seconds then shut off. I've changed ecm, fuel relays, checked all fuses wiring. Fuel pressure is in range, it's got good fire will idle with ether. No water in motor. Any help would be great. Thanks
wow water up to dash speakers, now that is deep water, even deeper than the main air induction pipe, in top of left fender.

if compression is still good, 150Psi. minimum , all for cyl.
and sounds real good with test fuel, does it ? sound good? it will sound real good if engine is healthy and spark strong. you must have got the Dizzy dry, some how?
if all that is good, then you lost injections.
the key on 3 times pressure is 36 PSI min. and 30 min running, (regulator does that action)
ok all above good.
then the NOID lamp test would fail.
all injectors must fire or the ecu is being told to cut fuel (or is bad ecu)
ever used a NOID before?, just a lamp.?

this ECU cuts fuel for only 2 reasons.
1: code 41/42 cranking (tacho line dead) (plug in the diagnostic jumper, crank for 5seconds, got 41 or 42 DTC? bingo.
2: TPS output over 3.5volts DC. (ground wire cut to TPS, causes that) normal is 1v. or less.(foot off throttle) (locked in unflood mode, this is.)
one guy put the TPS on wrong ,mis-indexed and not calibrated and got wrong output. and no injections. i just check the TP pin for 1v.

changed ECU , most ECU in the wild are bad, this old. all have bad CAP.'s unless changed 1 time.
many the CAPS are split the acid leaks out and the ECU circuit card traces are gone , eat up with acid.
i have 100s of photos of this. its classic.

Thanks for the reply. It will only start up for a second or so. Can't really tell if it runs good. But it will start so I'm guessing the firing is working. I'm thinking it's not getting fuel from the injectors? I've had it jump time before and this does not sound like that. Silly question but what is dizzy? The ecm I bought was from a company that rebuilds them, it's got a warranty seal on it so I'm guessing it's good. The water was only on the drivers side if that helps. The air filter was barely wet. Thanks
sorry , lazy to type distributor out over and over,. dizzy. it's common usage,
lets proceed as if engine good, cam timed to spec, and dizzy firing #1 at 5Deg BTDC or as under hood sticker tells you it must (EPA sticker is there , in USA)

why not do the diagnostic jumper check.??
ever do that? i'ts just a paper clip, unbent. key on, see 12s, NO ,yes? it must flash 12s or something.

insert it and crank for 5 seconds. release key, then see it flash 12s, (must) or some other code (must) if code 41, or code 42, it will NEVER EVER INJECT. by DESIGN.

this is easy. see the paper clip there, see the location of the DLC port? under hood, insert it.

all injector cars you can listen to the injectors, click
or use a NOID lamp.
a $5 harbor stethoscope helps you hear them click
a $1 lamp forms a NOID lamp to see the FIRE THEM.

lets make a list:
1; Good engine compression at 150 PSI spec, cam timed to spec. the ECU can not run 80psi engines, sorry, no can do. but test fuel does run it. so.......
in school they had this killer old engine, with rings thin as razor blades, 400,000 miles, runs on test fuel, but HP is like 10hp. very low compression.
the instructor used it to show how engines can fool you, and why compression gauges, work. Also how compression can pass with a flat cam lob.
he showed the limit so tests, and tools,

2: Spark hot on all 4 , firing order 1,3,4,2 CCW rotor.
3: runs on test fuel.
4: DTC = 12 , cranking for 5 seconds. release key code 12 for 5second or more, key off.
5: fuel pressure at 36 psi to 43psi, must be. key on 3 times. running is less, its not running so this line true.
6: injectors click, if yes, above line is failed. or injectors are all clogged.
7: NOID lamp passes, good, if not ECU has shut off injectors for #4 above fails.
8: NOID fails. on all 4 , due to TPS TP pin stuck at over 3v, not 1v. ECU thinks (measure) that driver is requesting unflood mode and kills all injectors by design.
bam is its running, or ECU is bad. but we need the results in this order or we have to back track over and over, see?
cant burn fuel with bad engine or spark, SO FUEL IS LAST. and the ECU cuts fuel for 4 reasons.
as you can see proceeding on assumptions is a trip to nowhere. but lets assume your ECU is good, as the book says to do, all books.

do not use haynes/CHILTon rags, or gm books.
use this, suzuki spec,dwg. very clear , no? do not wire it backwards as most books show, GM started the folly and others copy it, like drones.
[Image: firing16v.jpg]

i have this tool,. (needd on V6 engines badly buried injectors.) not yours.
this puppy is trained to hear clicks, it's and amazing tool but is $80
[Image: Electronic%20Waekon%20764621.jpg]

for the G16 you only need this for $5
[Image: steth1.jpg]

on a running engine you can hear injectors click, with rubber hose to ear, or screwdriver to ear and injector casing
hearing injectors click with a loud pounding starter cranking, and violent engine shaking, is a ear smashing hard time.
that is why i use my scope (best) or the NOID lamp.
if the noid passes, and the fuel pressure is good, then it dont click by logic. its clogged. clicks are of no concern to me. now...
ask self what good is a clicking clogged injector, nada. USE A NOID! make one , my injector page shows how to make one for $1

IF say? one injector is dead, i check the coil ohms (10), and try to back flush the screens inside, but if coil good?, off it goes to the injector man for $20 it's like new.
that is what I do. in this order order.

does that help?
Thanks I'll try this over the weekend. I'll post back next week. Again thanks.
Your welcome and do ask questions, all questions are good.
keep in mind , other ways work too, depending on tools, and time.
Thanks for the help. After all this, changed plugs started up no problems. Boy do I feel silly. Anyways it's going again. Thanks alot.
dont feel bad, as engines age and burn more oil, they can foul plugs faster.
it's very hard to predict when.
good luck to you and happy trails @
Hey one more problem, no headlights now. Got running lights, brake lights, turn signal and dash lights. Checked fuses wiring the best I could also no volts at bulbs. When I turn lights on it shows high beam on. Thanks
the head lights are 12vdc hot all the time, even key out.
so those 2 fuse have 12vdc on both side? it would with both good and no 12vdc at the HL. so that means the main box is dead. under hood.
the main box feeds power to the smaller box and has a special feed, called hot all the time.
that is bad.
the schematic is here. see it?
use that and any volt meter to find the cause.
the white/red and white/blue are hot 24/7.


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