1995 Tracker bog issue

[randyz71]

key on not started 40 psi fuel pressure. WOT while bogging 40 to 41 psi

[fixkick]

seems this is good.
keyon pressure is 40,
idle in post, 59 is 34psi, and is correct 6psi drop
wot is 40 is correct if this is before dropping of the throttle and vacuum has not gone way up.yet.

so the spark coil is bad?
is cam timing and spark timing correct.? compression is ok so cam must be too. just spark timing off , possible here.
one guy here went through 3 sets of dirt $15 cheep china spark wires before he found Ngk AND BOSCH WIRES WORK

BUT RUNS OK WITH MAF UNPLUGGED OR AT LEAST BETTER'
Doing that maf cable pull, will not cure bad spark. even make it worse;

the injectors are over injecting? I think or spark timing so far off fuel can not burn (retarded spark does the same)

[fixkick]

you do have spark timing light and do know how to use the timing adv, freeze jumper correct at DLC near battery?
the hood of car shows spec, typ. 5 degr BTDC 800 hot.

[randyz71]

put timing light on it today, with the timing jumper wire in, the timing jumps all over the place, no jumper it is about 5 degree. that is at idle 800 rpm and at operating temp.

[fixkick]

put timing light on it today, with the timing jumper wire in, the timing jumps all over the place, no jumper it is about 5 degree. that is at idle 800 rpm and at operating temp.

this is covered on my timing page, see jumps
caused, DLC jumper on on correct pins
no 180F water temp,, engine must be full hot
the idle switch closed, must.
800RPM hot, 750-850rpm spec, and regulates, there. proving it works, turn on head lamp and heater fan, see it hold, at 800/
now the timing freeze works

http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/IGN-FREEZE.HTML

here are my 9 reasons for the freeze jumper to fail

http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/16v-pr...tml#Bounce

[fixkick]

put timing light on it today, with the timing jumper wire in, the timing jumps all over the place, no jumper it is about 5 degree. that is at idle 800 rpm and at operating temp.

does the code 12 happen DCL jumper to diag mode if not there are no idle controls and the spark timing freeze jumper fails too.l


http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/16v-pr...tml#Bounce

[randyz71]

yes I get code 12. also adjusted tps again and now timing is where it is supposed to be, it fluctuates some but I think it is because of a slight miss, it flucuates only a degree or too whenever it misses. can rev to 4k rpm if throttle only pushed quarter of way, if push past quarter throttle it just bogs and wont go over about 1500 rpm still.

[fixkick]

16v 1995 tracker 4x4
so to get full power from the engine what is the key factors.? all misfiring causes lower engine power.
1: engine good. compression tests pass. 185psi spec, on 16v.+
2: vacuum test pass, if not the cat converter may be bad.
3: spark good, seems it misfires.
or (from bad spark, bad fuel in tank,bad compression or fuel injection rates (or fuel pressures wrong)
4: Your fuel pressure never once read correctly ever. in any post. it does not regulate. (ive no idea why only that it was wrong)
5: bad MAF.

the engine bogs for 2 season, lean fueling, (MAF? or fuel pressure low) or rich misfire, fuel pressure way to high, or leaking injectors
I think you told me all 4 spark plugs run black trips to the EFI is over injection or spark is bad, even a bad spark ignition coil bad.

in the most simple terms.
1: engine bad, (compression low or vacuum reads wrong) cam timed wrong, or CAT melted,causes crazy vacuum readings.
2: spark bad., (lots of parts there to fail) one guy replaced spark wires 3 times on the last time , upgraded to Bosch or NGK wire sets, (not $15 china crap) and engine ran perfectly.
3: bad fueling. (injectors clogged, lean, but your running rich) fuel pressure wrong, mAF bad.
just 3 causes.(mostly)

if spark is bad all the fuel in the world can not cure bad spark.



this post assumes nothing, (no parts replaced and me deleting reasons)


all we know is fuel pressure reads wrong.

[fixkick]

post 61 only short answer...
here is what you said.
"key on not started 40 psi fuel pressure. WOT while bogging 40 to 41 psi " (this can be good, and is, but why not post all fuel tests at one go, here?)

all data points told at once. like this.

vacuum readings and fuel pressure readings, both while
doing these test,
keyon nostart (40psi pressure at 0 inches vacuum)
key on idling (math 40-6 = 34PSI ,20 inches vacuum) if stuck at 40 the engine floods and misfires.
and the wot instant reading. (before it reduces fuel pressure ) the vacuum will drop to near zero at first, and FPR raises pressure to near 40psi. then as engine catches up (fuel press.drop later)
if you gun the throttle and see fuel pressure change, rise then fall, then at at say 4000 rpm (approx) drop the hammer, (throttle) the vacuum goes super high, and fuel pressure goes
supper low. as the engine spins down the vacuum is huge, with engine acting as a huge powerful vacuum pump, 26 inches Hg. is possible on strong engine. and fuel pressure is low 20's then
and lastly as engine spools down. the fuel pressure returns to 34PSI hot idle and 20 inches vacuum again.

that is how I test all FPR on car, 2 gauges.

it is a key test. to fuel injection, and if wrong the ECU may not be able to compensate for greatly wrong fuel pressure.
----------------------------------------------the list of things checked-------------------------------------------------------
If I am not mistaken.
engine is good. compression good. 185psi. and we know vacuum is ok, not odd .
spark unknown? state.
all 4 spark plugs run black tips.(a huge and important clue) and why I'm all over fuel pressure.(sorry but FPR's love to fail this old)
MAF can be bad, it is very hard to test on ANY weak engine, (cant suck enough air is why. )
the chicken and the egg, conundrum. (a weak maf nets you a weak engine and a weak engine nets you weak maf readings.) see?
most maf failures fail to weak not rich, fuel. so in most cases the maf never causes 4 black spark plugs.
a good maf shows added air flows as soon as you touch the throttle, and the ECU adds fuel matching that air flow. (if not engine bogs, lacks power)

the other cause is bad spark, I have scope to test spark and you dont so... tests are harder.
if you hear misfire, an spark ignition test light may show it fail, (connected to all spark wires 1 by one see if you can see it misfire in the LIGHT flashes ) a crude test but can work for you.
The spark can fail for many reasons.
bad spark plugs (they are not)
bad spark wires, (or spark timing set way wrong)
bad coil
if you drive the car and scan it after many driving cycles the ECU will show P0300, means misfire on all 4 cylinder random. one trip will not set this error, takes driving 2 times.
one guy found even the distributor side cable bad ,damaged, or rusted.
bad cap.
bad rotor or those damn china rotors clone crap (C4) that fit on 3 ways, and one of the 3 is correct, and other way causes horrible spark intensity, and 3rd way a dead engine
buy a bosch rotor, not "som ting wong" brands. use top names in parts, and win.
a bad distributor is possible, the coil is buried inside. so....there is that.

please add to list of changed parts, above.
cheers and good day to you !!!!

[randyz71]

reran compression yesterday, engine cold and engine hot, all 4 cylinders right above 170. put in another set of NGK plugs and timing on the mark other than the fluctuation of a notch or two. fuel pressure is steady 34 running, when i open throttle to WOT fuel pressure goes to 40psi and holds at 40 the whole time bogging. vacuum all in range, gas tank completely emptied and fresh gas put in. have not changed rotor or cap, they look brand new and look like suzuki brand, wires look brand new and look like factory heavy duty brand. I thought maybe cat convertor but figured with O2 sensor out it would alleviate enough back pressure to at least get some improvement but it didnt. new maf and new tps didnt work, unplugging maf lets me rev up. I dont know what to try next other than maybe ECU.