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Fail after 172
#4
(11-19-2014, 04:01 AM)calo Wrote: When I clean the tank filters y change gas.
A problem in the ecu ? I changed the transistors remember? But, it must fail in cold too. I discard that (bad to assume that, if 1 transistors shorts the EFI over fuels, and sparkplugs turn black and misifires but you never check the spark tips yet> why not look at say the front #1 sparkplug.? tip.

BOGGING constant after hot temperature reached. Automatically normalized when drop temp. Then temp up, same problem.

No CEL codes! Sad Strange? no not strange, this ECU fails to do 100s of tests, the modern ECU do. (like misfire. or too rich and many others)\
The CEL only reports CATASTROPHIC ERRORS> only. but does it flash 12s full time.????

Next step, check sensors....

Greatings!

so no CEL codes, means?
it flashes 12s all the time? or the lemp is dead.

so lets look at this from the ECU point of view (EFI)
that is needed to mix fuel. Ill list them.
1: the single injector not clogged. (partial) (usually by running old nasty fuel this happens)
2: ECU good, code 12s parked, and moving, and driving.
3: Fuel pressure at spec, see above. (i use a gauge to measure pressure, i never try to guess. it's #1 for injection to work right, and #1 fail point.
4: full 12vdc power to ECU (im sure its ok) and flashes codes 12?, as engine bogs. does it?, you can drive with diag jumper installed at any time.
5: all sensors good, they must work right ,except 02.) map, iat, ect, tps. ? (just 4 sensors)

just 5 things, we know the 6th is good. the engine.
its not the 02, as it is "disabled" accelerating.
the EGR must not be stuck open. but would cause your LNG? LPG to fail too. so is not EGR.

my guess is you don't have a fuel pressure gauge, and must guess? most posts that go to infinity are just this. one reason.
when cold the AFR is real rich and this can hide low fuel pressure, when hot the pressure must be in spec, or it will bog, or if at 60psi, will flood.
the pressure must be right
and the ECT unplugged hot, is about 300 ohms.
the map is easy too.


http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/my-map.html

MAP
1.2v at idle?
then gun the engine by hand , on throttle and get.? see the voltage shoot up near 3.5v? it must.

if you give it 1/2 or 3/4 throttle, and then wait, does power resume, holding foot. id need to drive car to see if map or tps was bad.
the TPS is very hard to test. but can be done with a wire, run from TPS to passenger how holds a voltmeter as you drive.
this proves that TPS part good or bad. they are very expensive , TPS. over $200 uSD
http://www.fixkick.com
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Messages In This Thread
Fail after 172 - by calo - 11-18-2014, 11:11 PM
RE: Fail after 172 - by fixkick - 11-19-2014, 01:21 AM
RE: Fail after 172 - by calo - 11-19-2014, 04:01 AM
RE: Fail after 172 - by fixkick - 11-19-2014, 06:54 AM
RE: Fail after 172 - by calo - 11-21-2014, 06:00 AM
RE: Fail after 172 - by fixkick - 11-21-2014, 06:25 AM
RE: Fail after 172 - by calo - 11-25-2014, 02:21 AM
RE: Fail after 172 - by fixkick - 11-25-2014, 02:44 AM
RE: Fail after 172 - by calo - 11-26-2014, 12:25 AM
RE: Fail after 172 - by fixkick - 11-26-2014, 01:13 AM
RE: Fail after 172 - by GeoHacker - 11-27-2014, 05:01 PM
RE: Fail after 172 - by fixkick - 11-27-2014, 10:11 PM

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