good a simple 2door m/t less parts to break.
the IAC can be blocked, 3 ways. each why is harder.
1: top port intake hole use putty/clay to block it.
2: remove the 3 screws on IAC side port (they tend to not want to come out) and pack the hole thing there, inside.
side 9, see those comments there.? i even give the gap sizes at 3 temps, no place on earth is this document but by me..... I have number dill set 1-60 and measured the gap. easy
http://www.fixkick.com/fresh-air/Slide_S...age_9.html
3: remove TB, and block the IAC port (this kills isc too) but you the ISC is already bocked, , blocking this hole does iAC by self.
my slide show has every drawing made for this car.
my slide #37
in your mind, put a large X on the bleed #7
#9 is iSC (elecric)
The IAC and ISC arrive in the same spot , see that white arrow.? next to numerical 8 there.
no better drawing exists for this TB, its shows it all.
the ISC can be removed and blocked, those ports to the ISC one sucks air, so block it. RPM still high
then block the IAC. its that simple.
the easy way is #1 way above. clay/putty. if the IAC can not suck air, it can not leak, (i think)
http://www.fixkick.com/fresh-air/Slide_S...2TBI-1.jpg
there are many folks that post and the IAC is bad. it works exaclty the same way as the engine thermostat with same expanding wax pellet.
I know one guy , that just keeps the iAC packed in clay for ever.
and needs to start car with 5% throttle or it starves for air and floods.
the ECU is programmed for a working iAC and ISC, if not the ECU has great difficulty starting the engine with the wrong air supplies. floods.
in your case hot starts will be too lean,. stuck open. until the MAP sensor wakes up and corrects all this wrong air calcs.
my newr 16v car , (blown engine) the IAC was stuck full open, on a hot engine, it screamed Blondy murder.. like wild a banchee..
keep in mind all these parts are prime players when starting in real cold whether.. and needed.
on newer cars they deleted the iAC and used a much more powerful iSC that can open real extra wide,. (using a stepper motor drive)
the newer car has a faster computer and can do all this with no effort , this old ECU uses a very crude IAC. pure mechanical.
the odometer dead is ok, but if ??speedo is dead ??the VSS is dead, if he VSS is dead, the ECU will go to limphome or for sure have low power on hills.
VSS is a critical sensor on all EFI cars. big time. it uses that sensor and the map to calculate turn engine load and REQUIRED Fuel.
one can remove the TB
and remove the cover screws x3 (i used heat on them first to crack them loose. fast heat , torched.)
lid off.
using hot water pan. i submerged the TB in 3 inches of water.
then heat the water to 160F, if the valve dont close, it's bad.
super simple easy test. but requires removing the TB.
same as the test of any cars thermostat. Classic.
the IAC can be blocked, 3 ways. each why is harder.
1: top port intake hole use putty/clay to block it.
2: remove the 3 screws on IAC side port (they tend to not want to come out) and pack the hole thing there, inside.
side 9, see those comments there.? i even give the gap sizes at 3 temps, no place on earth is this document but by me..... I have number dill set 1-60 and measured the gap. easy
http://www.fixkick.com/fresh-air/Slide_S...age_9.html
3: remove TB, and block the IAC port (this kills isc too) but you the ISC is already bocked, , blocking this hole does iAC by self.
my slide show has every drawing made for this car.
my slide #37
in your mind, put a large X on the bleed #7
#9 is iSC (elecric)
The IAC and ISC arrive in the same spot , see that white arrow.? next to numerical 8 there.
no better drawing exists for this TB, its shows it all.
the ISC can be removed and blocked, those ports to the ISC one sucks air, so block it. RPM still high
then block the IAC. its that simple.
the easy way is #1 way above. clay/putty. if the IAC can not suck air, it can not leak, (i think)
http://www.fixkick.com/fresh-air/Slide_S...2TBI-1.jpg
there are many folks that post and the IAC is bad. it works exaclty the same way as the engine thermostat with same expanding wax pellet.
I know one guy , that just keeps the iAC packed in clay for ever.
and needs to start car with 5% throttle or it starves for air and floods.
the ECU is programmed for a working iAC and ISC, if not the ECU has great difficulty starting the engine with the wrong air supplies. floods.
in your case hot starts will be too lean,. stuck open. until the MAP sensor wakes up and corrects all this wrong air calcs.
my newr 16v car , (blown engine) the IAC was stuck full open, on a hot engine, it screamed Blondy murder.. like wild a banchee..
keep in mind all these parts are prime players when starting in real cold whether.. and needed.
on newer cars they deleted the iAC and used a much more powerful iSC that can open real extra wide,. (using a stepper motor drive)
the newer car has a faster computer and can do all this with no effort , this old ECU uses a very crude IAC. pure mechanical.
the odometer dead is ok, but if ??speedo is dead ??the VSS is dead, if he VSS is dead, the ECU will go to limphome or for sure have low power on hills.
VSS is a critical sensor on all EFI cars. big time. it uses that sensor and the map to calculate turn engine load and REQUIRED Fuel.
one can remove the TB
and remove the cover screws x3 (i used heat on them first to crack them loose. fast heat , torched.)
lid off.
using hot water pan. i submerged the TB in 3 inches of water.
then heat the water to 160F, if the valve dont close, it's bad.
super simple easy test. but requires removing the TB.
same as the test of any cars thermostat. Classic.
http://www.fixkick.com