what does"no errors with the clip mean", got 12s, or BLANK LAMP? lamp stuck ON? did you insert the engine bay DLC jumper running,? this is a valid test to see LIVE errors. you can even drive car with flashing 12s, and see if it changes on HILLS , (that is called live testing)
"my ignition timing is off 4 degrees" in what direction????
0 would be retarded timing, and 9 would be too far advanced, use real numbers, not the off by thing. please.
YOUR hood sticker shows. this all clearly, and even shows the freeze jumper there, see it? (vague sure)
http://www.fixkick.com/specs/Body-TAGS/h...age_3.html
"is it fueling?"
ive no idea, at all, me not driving it or using my tools. i cant feel misfire here, nor hear it? or see your engine shake from misfiring...
finding low power causes, is not easy , lacking all tools to do the tests.
if its not misfiring, and the engine has full compression, and timed to factory spec.
it's bad fuel in tank or fueling related. sure.
but that can be (all inputs to ecu wrong, or injection issues, and or fuel pressure wrong)
all engines are checked in the following order.
1: compression at spec, 150 psi min, (W.O.T) spark out, foot holding throttle open or by hand.
195 PSI. Seen in FSM chapter 6-6 (not 6A1) hot spec.
my 16v pulls
My 97' pulls 185 PSI min. dead cold. (a new head) later and hot it does 195 PSI. Old 100k mile engine , at SEA LEVEL ! im sure you are at sea level...
spark timing 101:
the spark timing is not done like that, read my timing page yet?
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/16v-procedure.html
this links show all ways to get it right, not just fine tuning it, it covers planting a distributor and all ways to mess up, (lots there are)
the ECU bounces timing all over the place to get low smog, low fuel usage and to set fine idle speed adjustments. NORMAL ON ALL EFI systems.
the fsm on all suzuki G16 show you how to place the timing freeze jumper, first.
this freezes the timing, and now you set the static running hot idle , timing, after getting 800 rpm working, not before.
the spec, for timing is on the hood. open hood, look up, under hood, see that huge white sticker, with vacuum map, spark gap, and timing ?
why be lost? the transmission is working,. it shafts too late. as all do if the 95 HP engine is not only 60HP... the transmission can not invent horse power, out of nothing. ( it can increase torque, "gear ratios" but not HP, HP is a factor of Torque AND RPM.)
the engine is weak. is my answer.
and i told you how to prove that 2 ways, stall test passes!. and you pullt he TCM and drive up a hill, see engine is weak. (or not)_
You have 3 gears to test, in TCM limp-home mode. sure the TCM connector has a lock lever, as do all connectors on car, squeeze it...)
Go up a hill in 3rd gear, flog it. see, low power. right?
It only has 95hp, any drop with that small amount on any 4 door (heavy) will be dramatic. just like all small cars do.... like that....
The 95 is about 75hp at rear wheels. 95 is fly wheel HP only.
car runs ok, but shifts late.
right>?
it's not the trans.. if the 0D flashes 12s it's not trans. i bet.
but did the ECU CEL flash 12s on demand, did it? and running?
and that stalling with the DTC jumper is wrong. elaborate that please, tell what pins used, and where.
were exactly did you use the clip ( car has 2 DLCs) DLC = (diag. link connector) some cars have 4 pin or 6 pin, DLC under hood, which is yours?????
the steering column DLC is for the TCM? 1 to 6 jump. (called TCM diag pins)
the under hood DLC is , 4pin DLC or 6pin DLC and what pins? is yours 6 pins?
when using the jumpers, say what the light does, (goes blank, stuck on, or flashes 12s) be clear on what it does, as that speaks volumes...
my guess on ECU engine/jumper clip stalls. is using wrong DLC or wrong pins.
or ECU is very sick. this is correct , ECU with bad caps crash and can not run engine and run diagnostics at same time, its overloaded.... and a TOP SYMPTOM to see on any old pre 1996 Sidekick/tracker or Vitara .
please expand on that odd thing, with CEL, stalls..... its a critical error there.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
now ill do timing, for you here.
the engine must be hot, 180f (pre my timing page and the FSM 1995 best year book)
the engine idle speed must be near 800 and not surging, the ISC must work. and regulate idle , hot engine. 180F.+
connect strobe to #1 wire lead (front)
The hood sticker shows timing spec, it's advanced, from zero. (scale side left)
5 degrees before TDC is our spec, in our country. FEDERAL LAW.
http://www.fixkick.com/specs/Body-TAGS/h...age_3.html
Freeze, jump C to D on 4pin DLC, on 6 pin, DLC jumper. 4 to 5. (THIS DLC is next to battery close in front)
the timing must not bounce now. (frozen by you it is)
if it bounces there are 9 reasons for that to fail. stated on my timing page, clearly.
if the the cam belt slipped all this is just a waste of time..... for sure....
the page is clear on how to set timing and the 9 ways for the freeze to fail, besides using the wrong pins. jumped.
see fast track here (fast track means distributor not removed before now)
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/16v-procedure.html
let me ask one more time.
does ECU flash(CEL) 12s running, even driving hard.?
does the TCM flash 12s, at all times? (OD LAMP flashes 12s)
not doing this first. is a very big waste of your time.... imagine the ECU and TCM saw and error then cleared it. and you missed that fact.
errors can in fact set and clear in an instant,, for sure spark errors. of any kind.
lets do the engine power low , global checks. (ASE class room basics, it's called)
compression ok. (cat not melted, check is on my list too) I have a cat test page, read that? do you even have a CAT ?
Intake track not blocked by birds or rodents (run car with air cleaner lid remove, got power back>????????)
ecu CEL flashes 12s driving,
and OD TCM flashes 12s all time.? what if the ecu messes up, as all do till 1995. what if? CEL acts funny??????
spark ok. (strong and set to hood sticker spec FOR TIMING)
Is engine misfiring or bogging, the 2 ways to loose power .?
fueling ok. (huge list of tests ON FUEL, and is last not first.) you can't burn fuel FULLY, if spark and/OR compression is BAD.
We call this knocking the ducks over. 1 by 1, and land on fueling.
fueling is a vastly more complex topic.
I can't do the full fueling tests here, on one page. we can do it 1 step at a time.
cases in point: (not guessing but this car is old, as is .....)
The FPR loves to fail on this very old car. they get old and do that.
if it sticks open, the engine starves of fuel, and if it sticks closed it floods. some do both randomly, omg, a private H3LL that.. no?
if the FPR vacuum nipple leaks fuel, ITS BAD.
the tests are easy with a fuel pressure gauge. 3 tests. covered in my fuel pump page.
as are the injectors balance tests. using same tool, covered in the FSM and on my injectors page.
if the inputs to the ECU lie, the ECU will in fact inject wrong. (the ECU is just a very old slow computer)
one input (blind it cant see that) is fuel pressure. of low all the time , power will be low at higher throttle settings, and the 4speed will SHIFT LATE!
one more input is the 02 sensor, but it's not online , accelerating or at WOT. but can cause low power cruising if it reads 1v most the time. (1v = rich causing ECU to go lean and lost power. unplug it for 1 day to see if things change.)
(more timing hints)
the crank pulley turns CW
the TDC scale is on top
the left of that scale, is advancement. (happens sooner)
the right is 0. we never go right of 0 , ever. (retarded timing is right)
i made this photo to make all this very clear, as seen on my timing page
![[Image: tdc-look2.jpg]](http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/tdc-look2.jpg)
getting the freeze to work can i fact be very very hard. on any G16 engine. (ECU rules are very strict here)
9 reasons hard.
"my ignition timing is off 4 degrees" in what direction????
0 would be retarded timing, and 9 would be too far advanced, use real numbers, not the off by thing. please.
YOUR hood sticker shows. this all clearly, and even shows the freeze jumper there, see it? (vague sure)
http://www.fixkick.com/specs/Body-TAGS/h...age_3.html
"is it fueling?"
ive no idea, at all, me not driving it or using my tools. i cant feel misfire here, nor hear it? or see your engine shake from misfiring...
finding low power causes, is not easy , lacking all tools to do the tests.
if its not misfiring, and the engine has full compression, and timed to factory spec.
it's bad fuel in tank or fueling related. sure.
but that can be (all inputs to ecu wrong, or injection issues, and or fuel pressure wrong)
all engines are checked in the following order.
1: compression at spec, 150 psi min, (W.O.T) spark out, foot holding throttle open or by hand.
195 PSI. Seen in FSM chapter 6-6 (not 6A1) hot spec.
my 16v pulls
My 97' pulls 185 PSI min. dead cold. (a new head) later and hot it does 195 PSI. Old 100k mile engine , at SEA LEVEL ! im sure you are at sea level...
spark timing 101:
the spark timing is not done like that, read my timing page yet?
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/16v-procedure.html
this links show all ways to get it right, not just fine tuning it, it covers planting a distributor and all ways to mess up, (lots there are)
the ECU bounces timing all over the place to get low smog, low fuel usage and to set fine idle speed adjustments. NORMAL ON ALL EFI systems.
the fsm on all suzuki G16 show you how to place the timing freeze jumper, first.
this freezes the timing, and now you set the static running hot idle , timing, after getting 800 rpm working, not before.
the spec, for timing is on the hood. open hood, look up, under hood, see that huge white sticker, with vacuum map, spark gap, and timing ?
why be lost? the transmission is working,. it shafts too late. as all do if the 95 HP engine is not only 60HP... the transmission can not invent horse power, out of nothing. ( it can increase torque, "gear ratios" but not HP, HP is a factor of Torque AND RPM.)
the engine is weak. is my answer.
and i told you how to prove that 2 ways, stall test passes!. and you pullt he TCM and drive up a hill, see engine is weak. (or not)_
You have 3 gears to test, in TCM limp-home mode. sure the TCM connector has a lock lever, as do all connectors on car, squeeze it...)
Go up a hill in 3rd gear, flog it. see, low power. right?
It only has 95hp, any drop with that small amount on any 4 door (heavy) will be dramatic. just like all small cars do.... like that....
The 95 is about 75hp at rear wheels. 95 is fly wheel HP only.
car runs ok, but shifts late.
right>?
it's not the trans.. if the 0D flashes 12s it's not trans. i bet.
but did the ECU CEL flash 12s on demand, did it? and running?
and that stalling with the DTC jumper is wrong. elaborate that please, tell what pins used, and where.
were exactly did you use the clip ( car has 2 DLCs) DLC = (diag. link connector) some cars have 4 pin or 6 pin, DLC under hood, which is yours?????
the steering column DLC is for the TCM? 1 to 6 jump. (called TCM diag pins)
the under hood DLC is , 4pin DLC or 6pin DLC and what pins? is yours 6 pins?
when using the jumpers, say what the light does, (goes blank, stuck on, or flashes 12s) be clear on what it does, as that speaks volumes...
my guess on ECU engine/jumper clip stalls. is using wrong DLC or wrong pins.
or ECU is very sick. this is correct , ECU with bad caps crash and can not run engine and run diagnostics at same time, its overloaded.... and a TOP SYMPTOM to see on any old pre 1996 Sidekick/tracker or Vitara .
please expand on that odd thing, with CEL, stalls..... its a critical error there.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
now ill do timing, for you here.
the engine must be hot, 180f (pre my timing page and the FSM 1995 best year book)
the engine idle speed must be near 800 and not surging, the ISC must work. and regulate idle , hot engine. 180F.+
connect strobe to #1 wire lead (front)
The hood sticker shows timing spec, it's advanced, from zero. (scale side left)
5 degrees before TDC is our spec, in our country. FEDERAL LAW.
http://www.fixkick.com/specs/Body-TAGS/h...age_3.html
Freeze, jump C to D on 4pin DLC, on 6 pin, DLC jumper. 4 to 5. (THIS DLC is next to battery close in front)
the timing must not bounce now. (frozen by you it is)
if it bounces there are 9 reasons for that to fail. stated on my timing page, clearly.
if the the cam belt slipped all this is just a waste of time..... for sure....
the page is clear on how to set timing and the 9 ways for the freeze to fail, besides using the wrong pins. jumped.
see fast track here (fast track means distributor not removed before now)
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/16v-procedure.html
let me ask one more time.
does ECU flash(CEL) 12s running, even driving hard.?
does the TCM flash 12s, at all times? (OD LAMP flashes 12s)
not doing this first. is a very big waste of your time.... imagine the ECU and TCM saw and error then cleared it. and you missed that fact.
errors can in fact set and clear in an instant,, for sure spark errors. of any kind.
lets do the engine power low , global checks. (ASE class room basics, it's called)
compression ok. (cat not melted, check is on my list too) I have a cat test page, read that? do you even have a CAT ?
Intake track not blocked by birds or rodents (run car with air cleaner lid remove, got power back>????????)
ecu CEL flashes 12s driving,
and OD TCM flashes 12s all time.? what if the ecu messes up, as all do till 1995. what if? CEL acts funny??????
spark ok. (strong and set to hood sticker spec FOR TIMING)
Is engine misfiring or bogging, the 2 ways to loose power .?
fueling ok. (huge list of tests ON FUEL, and is last not first.) you can't burn fuel FULLY, if spark and/OR compression is BAD.
We call this knocking the ducks over. 1 by 1, and land on fueling.
fueling is a vastly more complex topic.
I can't do the full fueling tests here, on one page. we can do it 1 step at a time.
cases in point: (not guessing but this car is old, as is .....)
The FPR loves to fail on this very old car. they get old and do that.
if it sticks open, the engine starves of fuel, and if it sticks closed it floods. some do both randomly, omg, a private H3LL that.. no?
if the FPR vacuum nipple leaks fuel, ITS BAD.
the tests are easy with a fuel pressure gauge. 3 tests. covered in my fuel pump page.
as are the injectors balance tests. using same tool, covered in the FSM and on my injectors page.
if the inputs to the ECU lie, the ECU will in fact inject wrong. (the ECU is just a very old slow computer)
one input (blind it cant see that) is fuel pressure. of low all the time , power will be low at higher throttle settings, and the 4speed will SHIFT LATE!
one more input is the 02 sensor, but it's not online , accelerating or at WOT. but can cause low power cruising if it reads 1v most the time. (1v = rich causing ECU to go lean and lost power. unplug it for 1 day to see if things change.)
(more timing hints)
the crank pulley turns CW
the TDC scale is on top
the left of that scale, is advancement. (happens sooner)
the right is 0. we never go right of 0 , ever. (retarded timing is right)
i made this photo to make all this very clear, as seen on my timing page
getting the freeze to work can i fact be very very hard. on any G16 engine. (ECU rules are very strict here)
9 reasons hard.
http://www.fixkick.com