on old cars expect more than one problem.
Bad thermostat tops list, must attain 180f or more and old short drive ,82C, hot coolant fast, or it is BAD and will waste lots of fuel if bad.
"I have replaced the fuel injectors" (more than 1 means)
so this is 16valve 4 injector MPI, multipoint injection
so has mAF sensor for sure.
we clean our maf and test it fully with a volt meter.
our MAF sensor it no where like what is used in EU, Europe.
Maf Stuck high or low will cause over injection. (the too much air lie ,causes too much fuel that simple)
too low trigger limphome and MAF emulation and sucks tons of fuel in this case.
check key on and idle voltage the gun throttle hard to see if output goes near 3v.
never trust ECU to tell you if MAF is good or bad. manually test it easy with DMM voltmeter even $20 meter works here,
other lies the ECU many not see or know.(DTC finds only dead things)
ECT reads low or in Europe they sell wrong ECT . lots there. none here. are wrong. OTC. (due to vast engine types used in EU)
IAT , is not it, will not cause this. it is only for super small trim, fuel, base on air temps.
O2 , on ours we can scan O2 and plot graph it to see it swing .1 to .9vdc ( it must swing and not be stuck or offset to zero volts
MAF reads wrong, use a voltmeter, it is a simple analog meter, not some wild PWM thing seen on other cars , it has simple output DC.
TPS, this sensor must not be bad, (scans bad) if does limphome is NOW. it is just a pot.(var. resistor) about 1v to 4v in the TP pin.
if the TP output pin does 1v at idle, hot. then the low end , then key off and go key on only no start, and advance the Throttle by hand and see SMOOTH
output from 1 to to about 4v with NO GLITCHES. ( a linear smooth increase never dips to 0v or 5v ever, good TPS is it)
i did not mention spark it is all fresh parts. but misfiring matters if heard./felt.
do spark tips look ok not green or soaking in oil.? spark plugs talk, "SIGNS" my guess (sooty) blackish for rich. but IDK what is there.
most MAF's fail dead or weak but there is always those that defy average fails . test it. is best, not hard to do.
most get coked up with fumes from cars in front of you the hot wire inside is nasty dirty, we use maf cleaner on it, plastics safe.
and from 6_+ inches away, spray, stop soad time, 1min or so, repeat 3 times, now clean do not damage the hot wire with any kind of force. (too close)
some <MAF go dead, and DTC code for that and now runs rick due to ECU EMULATING a dead MAF. and is super rich now. or PCM tells it is dead.
why not use your , DLC jumper clip for flash codes. this must be done in Australia (outside USA for sure)
you can not do this but shows how good OBD2 is even the first suz made with this.
here is my MAF 1996, drive and plotted, OBD2. it follows the TPS output closely, USA cars OBD2 very good car.
those peaks are me shifting and accel. hard.
A key sensor here for MPI, the MAF.. horz. is time, vertical is AIR MASS.
bad thermostat here takes 10 miles to get to 180f. too old and sluggish, replaced next day me. and sucked fuel running too cold.
![[Image: TP-MAF-VSS-ECT-FUEL.JPG]](https://fixkick.com/my96-16v/TP-MAF-VSS-ECT-FUEL.JPG)
Bad thermostat tops list, must attain 180f or more and old short drive ,82C, hot coolant fast, or it is BAD and will waste lots of fuel if bad.
"I have replaced the fuel injectors" (more than 1 means)
so this is 16valve 4 injector MPI, multipoint injection
so has mAF sensor for sure.
we clean our maf and test it fully with a volt meter.
our MAF sensor it no where like what is used in EU, Europe.
Maf Stuck high or low will cause over injection. (the too much air lie ,causes too much fuel that simple)
too low trigger limphome and MAF emulation and sucks tons of fuel in this case.
check key on and idle voltage the gun throttle hard to see if output goes near 3v.
never trust ECU to tell you if MAF is good or bad. manually test it easy with DMM voltmeter even $20 meter works here,
other lies the ECU many not see or know.(DTC finds only dead things)
ECT reads low or in Europe they sell wrong ECT . lots there. none here. are wrong. OTC. (due to vast engine types used in EU)
IAT , is not it, will not cause this. it is only for super small trim, fuel, base on air temps.
O2 , on ours we can scan O2 and plot graph it to see it swing .1 to .9vdc ( it must swing and not be stuck or offset to zero volts
MAF reads wrong, use a voltmeter, it is a simple analog meter, not some wild PWM thing seen on other cars , it has simple output DC.
TPS, this sensor must not be bad, (scans bad) if does limphome is NOW. it is just a pot.(var. resistor) about 1v to 4v in the TP pin.
if the TP output pin does 1v at idle, hot. then the low end , then key off and go key on only no start, and advance the Throttle by hand and see SMOOTH
output from 1 to to about 4v with NO GLITCHES. ( a linear smooth increase never dips to 0v or 5v ever, good TPS is it)
i did not mention spark it is all fresh parts. but misfiring matters if heard./felt.
do spark tips look ok not green or soaking in oil.? spark plugs talk, "SIGNS" my guess (sooty) blackish for rich. but IDK what is there.
most MAF's fail dead or weak but there is always those that defy average fails . test it. is best, not hard to do.
most get coked up with fumes from cars in front of you the hot wire inside is nasty dirty, we use maf cleaner on it, plastics safe.
and from 6_+ inches away, spray, stop soad time, 1min or so, repeat 3 times, now clean do not damage the hot wire with any kind of force. (too close)
some <MAF go dead, and DTC code for that and now runs rick due to ECU EMULATING a dead MAF. and is super rich now. or PCM tells it is dead.
why not use your , DLC jumper clip for flash codes. this must be done in Australia (outside USA for sure)
you can not do this but shows how good OBD2 is even the first suz made with this.
here is my MAF 1996, drive and plotted, OBD2. it follows the TPS output closely, USA cars OBD2 very good car.
those peaks are me shifting and accel. hard.
A key sensor here for MPI, the MAF.. horz. is time, vertical is AIR MASS.
bad thermostat here takes 10 miles to get to 180f. too old and sluggish, replaced next day me. and sucked fuel running too cold.
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