09-18-2013, 12:54 AM
the battery can only be tested when charged 100% then load tested. The tool is only $24 at harbor fright,
many folks walk in with a dead battery and it's all just a waste of time. (autostore H3LL) a real shop knows to charge it, and says come back near closing time...
take the battery in with 12.6v (rested) at the terminals. charge it first. the rest for 4hrs, the measure the volts.
if it will not charge up to 12.6v (warm days) after a full rest then the battery is DOA.
If you charge a battery and it reads like 13.5 v, that is surface charge, (false) imagine, the electrolyte inside is not fully mixed,up yet, that is way, it must rest and mix.
if all that is too slow, the barrow a known good battery, and bingo you have the answer with zero tools. and zero dumb guys at the autostore.
the autostore just love to sell new batteries to you,that are ONLY discharged and quite good, it's a major profit deal.
But they can do Alternators very well, never batteries.
i added more bench marks to my charge page.
No ASE shop pulls the battery terms on a running engine, this invites huge overvoltage and blowiing up all electronic in the, car. including a $1000 ECU.
The battery tests are done with a LOAD bank, or battery load tester. only.
The lamp in the the dash is burned out.? CHARGE and CEL?
ground the ALT lamp wire at the alt pin, (plug pulled) the key on, if lamp is dead, then its dead.
this lamp dead, is my page shows. and why, will cause the alternator to be born dead 1/2 the time, why allow that.? if dead.?
The lamp pre charges the field coil., on many ALTS.
if the lamp is missing, that will not happen every time. (a real PAIN that is.)
check engine light no longer comes on? lamp burned out. ask for lamp numbers or read my hard to find parts page under, lamps.
if they over voltage'd the system , many lamps burn out. they were dead wrong to do that. I'd not go there again.
that trick is for antique, cars, with no electronics on board. they are in the old school hell.
don't let them touch your car.
next time, find a real ASE shop. See the badge on sleeve of real mech. and win.
At least at walmart, they have a very expensive, charge analysis system. here. even the untrained can use it. It even talks you through it....
IMO.
never take a battery uncharged to any test place. (unless they have charging stations and real ASE guys,)
never take a running car to any shop and say its don't run. or wont start.,,, $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
never take a car to a shop and then not be able to demonstrate the issue life. if not #=$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
if you do , you will go broke soon.
$100 and hour to find intermittent is very expensive. near endless. ASK for help, post symptoms and ask for simple tests.
do not run any modern car with the battery cables removed. GEE. that is really asking for trouble, ( but was ok back before the 80s) way back WHEN !
what lamps work, in the dash, any? key on only?
brake fail,
ALT
CEL (no)
congrats getting a field Kick working, it not easy, not at all.
bad fuel , bad connections.
many folks walk in with a dead battery and it's all just a waste of time. (autostore H3LL) a real shop knows to charge it, and says come back near closing time...
take the battery in with 12.6v (rested) at the terminals. charge it first. the rest for 4hrs, the measure the volts.
if it will not charge up to 12.6v (warm days) after a full rest then the battery is DOA.
If you charge a battery and it reads like 13.5 v, that is surface charge, (false) imagine, the electrolyte inside is not fully mixed,up yet, that is way, it must rest and mix.
if all that is too slow, the barrow a known good battery, and bingo you have the answer with zero tools. and zero dumb guys at the autostore.
the autostore just love to sell new batteries to you,that are ONLY discharged and quite good, it's a major profit deal.
But they can do Alternators very well, never batteries.
i added more bench marks to my charge page.
No ASE shop pulls the battery terms on a running engine, this invites huge overvoltage and blowiing up all electronic in the, car. including a $1000 ECU.
The battery tests are done with a LOAD bank, or battery load tester. only.
The lamp in the the dash is burned out.? CHARGE and CEL?
ground the ALT lamp wire at the alt pin, (plug pulled) the key on, if lamp is dead, then its dead.
this lamp dead, is my page shows. and why, will cause the alternator to be born dead 1/2 the time, why allow that.? if dead.?
The lamp pre charges the field coil., on many ALTS.
if the lamp is missing, that will not happen every time. (a real PAIN that is.)
check engine light no longer comes on? lamp burned out. ask for lamp numbers or read my hard to find parts page under, lamps.
if they over voltage'd the system , many lamps burn out. they were dead wrong to do that. I'd not go there again.
that trick is for antique, cars, with no electronics on board. they are in the old school hell.
don't let them touch your car.
next time, find a real ASE shop. See the badge on sleeve of real mech. and win.
At least at walmart, they have a very expensive, charge analysis system. here. even the untrained can use it. It even talks you through it....
IMO.
never take a battery uncharged to any test place. (unless they have charging stations and real ASE guys,)
never take a running car to any shop and say its don't run. or wont start.,,, $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
never take a car to a shop and then not be able to demonstrate the issue life. if not #=$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
if you do , you will go broke soon.
$100 and hour to find intermittent is very expensive. near endless. ASK for help, post symptoms and ask for simple tests.
do not run any modern car with the battery cables removed. GEE. that is really asking for trouble, ( but was ok back before the 80s) way back WHEN !
what lamps work, in the dash, any? key on only?
brake fail,
ALT
CEL (no)
congrats getting a field Kick working, it not easy, not at all.
bad fuel , bad connections.
http://www.fixkick.com