http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/clu...#Diagnosis
Reverse gear, what does reverse do...? it will not like even the smallest crutch drag. or grinds. or balks as you attempt to select reverse, running.
1st gear is then ext hardest due to drive shaft rpm is 0 and engine is 800.
other gears are more easy because you match speeds , double cluthing etc.
the pressure plate is bad, or the disc is warped, cracked or swollen in oil.
vitlies, that kicking is violent clutch engage ment, this is the pressure plate fingers burned up,(now non linear in behaviour) and as you attemp to release the clutch , engage it.
you can not to so in a smooth manor, (all comments are with cable new. and bell lever moves 1 inch, and no broken clutch pedal or its end spine stripped.)
let me explain synchro's (those cute brass rings)
as you release the clutch , the transmission input shaft does to zero RPM (yours is not) ! and grinds. or balks. i call this the Canary gear, like in the coal mines, first to die?
events:
clutch fully disengages (if not? its hopeless)
tranny RPM on input shaft drops to zero RPM or tries to. it will, parked.
the operator selects reverse, and it grinds, so operator waits a second and RPM is zero and reverse dont grind. it has no synchro .so must be 0 zero, if rear wheels are 0 rpm. (parked is that)
next?
the operator selects 1st gear tranny input shaft is zero, the synro is not needed NOW, and 1st engages.
if not, the synchro can not , overpower the engines 20 horse power , passing via a dragging clutch disc, impossible. it will grind,
lets SAY, as you are coasting at 5mph and select 1st gear from Neutral.
normal:
the input shaft is now 0 rpm (clutch works) the tail shaft is 5 MPH RPRM the synchro matches those 2 speeds. it only has to overcome the inertia of the input shaft, this shaft speeds up
to the output shaft speed( syncho's are a speed matching device), and 1st gear happens, no clunk or dogs grinding, (same is true for all forward gears)
Bad:
if the clutch drags. this keeps the input shaft at 800 rpm at all times. and the synrhro is overloaded (an lots of wear) it can not slow the input shaft (or speed it up if necessary) because
it is not even close to having the power of that dragging clutch disc.
A synchro has only it's cone, surfaces (weak) to match speeds, it can not hide a bad clutch, that is never its job. it's job is to only overcome , the small input shaft inertia, as it spins down or up. (and the disc inertia too)
I hope this helps.
the clutch can fail many ways, PP ,(pressure plate) can warp, its lever spring too. the flywheel surface can be bad causing violent engagement. the throw out can fail then overheat then
burn up those PP spring fingers. so very easy. in fact even glow red hot. and lose their temper.(anneals)
sad of all ,a bad cable can simulate all this. they wear inside and grove and jam. (unseen) random to boot.
the disc can warp,crack or soak up oil. causes dragging and or violent clutch action or grinding.(balking)
the disc has springs that can can fail, too. (makes noises odd)
id replace the pilot bearing, if is bad, the this simulates a bad clutch perfectly. just on $3 part. spoils the soup.
it makes the synchro's very unhappy
.
Reverse what does reverse do parked, (take 10 seconds to not grind, or grinds every time?)
good luck !
if you have an engine hoist.
and the exhaust flange comes off easy, pulling the engine can be way more easy, and mostly stand up work.
to pull the tranny you must get body frame higher than the bell housing diameter. then drain all the xfr cases and tranny first then the crossmember out. its a long process.
but the engine is just some connections, and some mount bolts.
http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/new...howto.html
if you have garage pit, that too can help, few folks have them today, back in the 20s. lots did.
engine out
has more steps but are easy , just standing there.
no need to pull the console or seats to get those stupid console side screws (rivets)
http://www.fixkick.com/engine/motor-pull.html
Reverse gear, what does reverse do...? it will not like even the smallest crutch drag. or grinds. or balks as you attempt to select reverse, running.
1st gear is then ext hardest due to drive shaft rpm is 0 and engine is 800.
other gears are more easy because you match speeds , double cluthing etc.
the pressure plate is bad, or the disc is warped, cracked or swollen in oil.
vitlies, that kicking is violent clutch engage ment, this is the pressure plate fingers burned up,(now non linear in behaviour) and as you attemp to release the clutch , engage it.
you can not to so in a smooth manor, (all comments are with cable new. and bell lever moves 1 inch, and no broken clutch pedal or its end spine stripped.)
let me explain synchro's (those cute brass rings)
as you release the clutch , the transmission input shaft does to zero RPM (yours is not) ! and grinds. or balks. i call this the Canary gear, like in the coal mines, first to die?
events:
clutch fully disengages (if not? its hopeless)
tranny RPM on input shaft drops to zero RPM or tries to. it will, parked.
the operator selects reverse, and it grinds, so operator waits a second and RPM is zero and reverse dont grind. it has no synchro .so must be 0 zero, if rear wheels are 0 rpm. (parked is that)
next?
the operator selects 1st gear tranny input shaft is zero, the synro is not needed NOW, and 1st engages.
if not, the synchro can not , overpower the engines 20 horse power , passing via a dragging clutch disc, impossible. it will grind,
lets SAY, as you are coasting at 5mph and select 1st gear from Neutral.
normal:
the input shaft is now 0 rpm (clutch works) the tail shaft is 5 MPH RPRM the synchro matches those 2 speeds. it only has to overcome the inertia of the input shaft, this shaft speeds up
to the output shaft speed( syncho's are a speed matching device), and 1st gear happens, no clunk or dogs grinding, (same is true for all forward gears)
Bad:
if the clutch drags. this keeps the input shaft at 800 rpm at all times. and the synrhro is overloaded (an lots of wear) it can not slow the input shaft (or speed it up if necessary) because
it is not even close to having the power of that dragging clutch disc.
A synchro has only it's cone, surfaces (weak) to match speeds, it can not hide a bad clutch, that is never its job. it's job is to only overcome , the small input shaft inertia, as it spins down or up. (and the disc inertia too)
I hope this helps.
the clutch can fail many ways, PP ,(pressure plate) can warp, its lever spring too. the flywheel surface can be bad causing violent engagement. the throw out can fail then overheat then
burn up those PP spring fingers. so very easy. in fact even glow red hot. and lose their temper.(anneals)
sad of all ,a bad cable can simulate all this. they wear inside and grove and jam. (unseen) random to boot.
the disc can warp,crack or soak up oil. causes dragging and or violent clutch action or grinding.(balking)
the disc has springs that can can fail, too. (makes noises odd)
id replace the pilot bearing, if is bad, the this simulates a bad clutch perfectly. just on $3 part. spoils the soup.
it makes the synchro's very unhappy
.
Reverse what does reverse do parked, (take 10 seconds to not grind, or grinds every time?)
good luck !
if you have an engine hoist.
and the exhaust flange comes off easy, pulling the engine can be way more easy, and mostly stand up work.
to pull the tranny you must get body frame higher than the bell housing diameter. then drain all the xfr cases and tranny first then the crossmember out. its a long process.
but the engine is just some connections, and some mount bolts.
http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/new...howto.html
if you have garage pit, that too can help, few folks have them today, back in the 20s. lots did.
engine out
has more steps but are easy , just standing there.
no need to pull the console or seats to get those stupid console side screws (rivets)
http://www.fixkick.com/engine/motor-pull.html
http://www.fixkick.com