01-11-2018, 03:29 AM
Hows it going FixKick!
I have a serious bog on my 95 sidekick 4 door 4x4 16v 1.6L california model. It was purchased like this and PO said it was cat. Removed cat and drove it catless and still bogged. Removed air filter..... still bogged. OK now on to the timing. The timing had slipped and i found the crank at around 10 oclock when the cam was lined up to the markers. I checked the keyway and it looked like one of the PO had done a fix and it looked fine (confirmed by several people on another forum).
I timed everything fine, even timed the distributor. I am fully capable of figuring these type of things out so im confident i did it right. I went on to dynamic timing and i noticed the freeze jumper is not holding it and it jumps between 6-10 btdc. started going through everything on your list and hit a wall and stopped at coolant temp (rain came and car is outside)
Anyway i guess i will go on with my question i figured you deserved some background. After the rain i started just testing things with my voltmeter as i could cover quite a few sensors in not that much time:
1# adjusted TPS exactly how you did, everything is good
#2 Air Temp Sensor: good, within spec
#3 ignition coil: good, within spec
#4 Idle Air Control valve: good (air passed with 12 volts to plug)
#5 Igniter........this is where the issue is. I didnt test it the way you did on your site i tested it to all the manuals you claim are wrong. they test the igniter itself
OC to G should have no continuity and when 3v is applied to IB then continuity should exist between OC and G. im having problems with this. I dont own a tester just a multimeter and mine does not have a beep function. When it is set to the most sensitive ohms setting (200) i get a number for a second then no continuity. This happen with both tests. i should maintain continuity with 3v but it goes to no continuity.
For a visual representation i included this link to a video i uploaded on a facebook forum. it should be visible to you.
https://www.facebook.com/ScienceISLife/v...307585856/
Now i dont know if this igniter is good or not and they are very expensive. without a way to actually test it how do i know if one is actually good. You test through the wire loom at the ECM. i just tested the module. There should be no difference in my mind besides slightly more resistance due to the length of wire. The igniter is very important in firing, and as i dont know if this will fix anything i would just like to know if everything with this igniter is ok or if it is junk.
I have yet to:
do a valve job
check fuel pressure
I will do these things immediately but if you happen to have any idea what the bog would be i would very much appreciate it. i have also included a link to a video of the engine bogging and the sound its making. maybe it will give you more of an idea. THANK YOU for your time and i hope to hear from you soon.
https://www.facebook.com/ScienceISLife/v...922482606/
I have a serious bog on my 95 sidekick 4 door 4x4 16v 1.6L california model. It was purchased like this and PO said it was cat. Removed cat and drove it catless and still bogged. Removed air filter..... still bogged. OK now on to the timing. The timing had slipped and i found the crank at around 10 oclock when the cam was lined up to the markers. I checked the keyway and it looked like one of the PO had done a fix and it looked fine (confirmed by several people on another forum).
I timed everything fine, even timed the distributor. I am fully capable of figuring these type of things out so im confident i did it right. I went on to dynamic timing and i noticed the freeze jumper is not holding it and it jumps between 6-10 btdc. started going through everything on your list and hit a wall and stopped at coolant temp (rain came and car is outside)
Anyway i guess i will go on with my question i figured you deserved some background. After the rain i started just testing things with my voltmeter as i could cover quite a few sensors in not that much time:
1# adjusted TPS exactly how you did, everything is good
#2 Air Temp Sensor: good, within spec
#3 ignition coil: good, within spec
#4 Idle Air Control valve: good (air passed with 12 volts to plug)
#5 Igniter........this is where the issue is. I didnt test it the way you did on your site i tested it to all the manuals you claim are wrong. they test the igniter itself
OC to G should have no continuity and when 3v is applied to IB then continuity should exist between OC and G. im having problems with this. I dont own a tester just a multimeter and mine does not have a beep function. When it is set to the most sensitive ohms setting (200) i get a number for a second then no continuity. This happen with both tests. i should maintain continuity with 3v but it goes to no continuity.
For a visual representation i included this link to a video i uploaded on a facebook forum. it should be visible to you.
https://www.facebook.com/ScienceISLife/v...307585856/
Now i dont know if this igniter is good or not and they are very expensive. without a way to actually test it how do i know if one is actually good. You test through the wire loom at the ECM. i just tested the module. There should be no difference in my mind besides slightly more resistance due to the length of wire. The igniter is very important in firing, and as i dont know if this will fix anything i would just like to know if everything with this igniter is ok or if it is junk.
I have yet to:
do a valve job
check fuel pressure
I will do these things immediately but if you happen to have any idea what the bog would be i would very much appreciate it. i have also included a link to a video of the engine bogging and the sound its making. maybe it will give you more of an idea. THANK YOU for your time and i hope to hear from you soon.
https://www.facebook.com/ScienceISLife/v...922482606/