facts to deal with
suzuki does NOT sell internal, distributor parts below the dust cover , below the rotor, !!! 58Bnn (58 bravo distribs)
go to rockauto.com read your dizzy page, (distributor) see the lack of parts not sold????? they do sell rebuilds for sure, so does the great CARDONE
my guess is j811 is below that? J18 DOHC engine? use COPS J18/J20 engines have no distributors at all, they are DIS engines.
you have G16b engine (16 valves) it is not a J engine there. until 1996 (options)
the 8v and 16v distributors share no parts at all, so forget 8v please, it has no bearing on this, at all ! but....
how ever, on car and off car bench tests are the same. (pins different for sure)
the CMP is a hall sensor that never fails,. never seen one fail, nor hear of one fail. ever. on any sidekick or tracker (they are the same car engine and ecu ,btw)
lots of bad wiring, sure.
lots of rusty connectors to it sure. or someone hot wired it and blew it to hell..sure.
but outputs a perfect 5vdc square wave (on car) of car same if done correctly, and so here we go there.....
it can be tested 3 ways. (the sensor btw is not sold , never seen by me ever)
1: scope is best. (always best)
2: any meter, and analog tops the list see the needle wag and not confused a stupid DMM meter, lacking the analog scale as my High end Fluke has.
3: any LED.
here is me doing the LED way the 3 cent test i call it for folks lacking good tools only
this is my mp4 video short.
wife spinning the shaft,and me showing it blink.
MP4 , you can down load it and use VLC on any PC made to see any MP4 made, btw. cell phones, toss coin , I never use my cell to do , hard work.
it is just a perfect square wave, 0v, 5v, 0v ,5v , as you turn it, so and analog meter would show needle high the low 5,0,5,0v same.
Im uses a 12vdc power pac to power my Distrib.... and power and ground and and led with 511 ohm resistor in series. (about 500 ok>?)
the LED is a 2volt device, and must have a 10v dropping resistor or you will blow up the LED and the CMP transistor.
that is why using a real volt meter is best,.
to bench test this CMP with a analog VM (even the $9 one at walfart ,next to tie wraps rack) use 1k ohhm resistor from 12vdc to the output pin
this is called a pull up resistor, lacking that resistor the CMP will seem dead, and is NOT.
The ecu has this resistor so out of car the resistor is missing now. distrib not in car.
Off car scope testing needs a 1k ohm pullup resistor to 12vdc
this plays in IE11 (windows 10 even on a new PC) and on firefox v56. 8 second video!
http://www.fixkick.com/videos/FLV-all/cmp1.mp4
there is no reason to do any of that, if you learn back-probing techniques. (sharp needles probes sets, bought or home made. using leather sewing needles)
just use a meter on car to test any CMP like this (hall) the 89/98 car this does NOT WORK. (others reading)
an analog needle meter on car, set to 20vdc range (or 15 some)
then make sure 12vdc pin in distrib is in fact 12vdc key on, the CMP must have power to work at all.
then back probe ( the output pin to meter)
then engine over any way you can by hand or by key turned to crank.
the voltage wags, 0v,5v, 0v, 5v.
the ecu pulls the pin to 5vdc , using the ECU 5vdc internal reg.
if the pin is dead, we then check the ECU 5vdc refr pin for 5vdc.
this too can fail. one easy way to check 5vdc is at the TPS pin Gray-red wire, if 0v, the ECU is bad, or that wire is shorted to ground. 4.75vdc mininum.
warnings,
never connect power directly to the Distrib output pin (never ever)
nor any LED lacking the 500 ohm series resistor , ever or the CMP will be BLOWN TO HELL. for sure.
this is why testing on car is 10x more safer, to the distrib and the ECU, ($600 worth of stuff there, refurb values)
we will find the cause, ive never given up' nor failed to get it done.
waiting your flash codes. please.
suzuki does NOT sell internal, distributor parts below the dust cover , below the rotor, !!! 58Bnn (58 bravo distribs)
go to rockauto.com read your dizzy page, (distributor) see the lack of parts not sold????? they do sell rebuilds for sure, so does the great CARDONE
my guess is j811 is below that? J18 DOHC engine? use COPS J18/J20 engines have no distributors at all, they are DIS engines.
you have G16b engine (16 valves) it is not a J engine there. until 1996 (options)
the 8v and 16v distributors share no parts at all, so forget 8v please, it has no bearing on this, at all ! but....
how ever, on car and off car bench tests are the same. (pins different for sure)
the CMP is a hall sensor that never fails,. never seen one fail, nor hear of one fail. ever. on any sidekick or tracker (they are the same car engine and ecu ,btw)
lots of bad wiring, sure.
lots of rusty connectors to it sure. or someone hot wired it and blew it to hell..sure.
but outputs a perfect 5vdc square wave (on car) of car same if done correctly, and so here we go there.....
it can be tested 3 ways. (the sensor btw is not sold , never seen by me ever)
1: scope is best. (always best)
2: any meter, and analog tops the list see the needle wag and not confused a stupid DMM meter, lacking the analog scale as my High end Fluke has.
3: any LED.
here is me doing the LED way the 3 cent test i call it for folks lacking good tools only
this is my mp4 video short.
wife spinning the shaft,and me showing it blink.
MP4 , you can down load it and use VLC on any PC made to see any MP4 made, btw. cell phones, toss coin , I never use my cell to do , hard work.
it is just a perfect square wave, 0v, 5v, 0v ,5v , as you turn it, so and analog meter would show needle high the low 5,0,5,0v same.
Im uses a 12vdc power pac to power my Distrib.... and power and ground and and led with 511 ohm resistor in series. (about 500 ok>?)
the LED is a 2volt device, and must have a 10v dropping resistor or you will blow up the LED and the CMP transistor.
that is why using a real volt meter is best,.
to bench test this CMP with a analog VM (even the $9 one at walfart ,next to tie wraps rack) use 1k ohhm resistor from 12vdc to the output pin
this is called a pull up resistor, lacking that resistor the CMP will seem dead, and is NOT.
The ecu has this resistor so out of car the resistor is missing now. distrib not in car.
Off car scope testing needs a 1k ohm pullup resistor to 12vdc
this plays in IE11 (windows 10 even on a new PC) and on firefox v56. 8 second video!
http://www.fixkick.com/videos/FLV-all/cmp1.mp4
there is no reason to do any of that, if you learn back-probing techniques. (sharp needles probes sets, bought or home made. using leather sewing needles)
just use a meter on car to test any CMP like this (hall) the 89/98 car this does NOT WORK. (others reading)
an analog needle meter on car, set to 20vdc range (or 15 some)
then make sure 12vdc pin in distrib is in fact 12vdc key on, the CMP must have power to work at all.
then back probe ( the output pin to meter)
then engine over any way you can by hand or by key turned to crank.
the voltage wags, 0v,5v, 0v, 5v.
the ecu pulls the pin to 5vdc , using the ECU 5vdc internal reg.
if the pin is dead, we then check the ECU 5vdc refr pin for 5vdc.
this too can fail. one easy way to check 5vdc is at the TPS pin Gray-red wire, if 0v, the ECU is bad, or that wire is shorted to ground. 4.75vdc mininum.
warnings,
never connect power directly to the Distrib output pin (never ever)
nor any LED lacking the 500 ohm series resistor , ever or the CMP will be BLOWN TO HELL. for sure.
this is why testing on car is 10x more safer, to the distrib and the ECU, ($600 worth of stuff there, refurb values)
we will find the cause, ive never given up' nor failed to get it done.
waiting your flash codes. please.
http://www.fixkick.com