12-21-2017, 12:25 AM
lets start over, please
spark dead at coil HV , lug, dead spark (a key hard fact to work and allows me to forget 1/2 what I typed above.)
then you told me, code 12s ok then in later in text, you said opposite
"cel glows but doesnt flash even with jumper on the dlc block. can i jumper it in a different location? "
do not use CAS works (crank angle sensor , cam angle sensors so means zero) sorry. i used it ever and can not erase CAS.
CKP is crank , no 1992-1995 USA kick has one, ever. if seen there that means a 96 engine was put in your car, and will be have wires to it, on any 1995, (95 harness has no CKP wires ever)
so lets forget CKP and focus only on , ECU and on CMP., ok?>
I also have no idea what this is j811 ?
lets do basic basics, with ONLY 2 facts known.. (spark is dead, at HV coil tower lug using a test spark plug and tested just like all cars back to 1920. coil> wire, spark plug grounded shell.
no spark and CAM SPINS< the CAM MOST spin and he rotor in the distributor must spin cranked.
1: key on and all 3 fuses have 12vdc on both sides of fuse, (IG-coil, FI, and dome ) that is 3 fuses, all have power in 6 places (im doing acid tests here) using a volt meter 12dc,
2: key on the CEL glows.
3: OK you can not find the DLC, nor say if yours is 4 or 6 pin, SUz used both. (4door, 2door, 16v/ 8v) so..... looking only matters at the DLC actual. in front of battery.
the 6pins is here.
http://www.fixkick.com/CEL/DLC/CAL-car-diag2.gif
the 4 pin is same place but is
http://www.fixkick.com/CEL/DLC/diag-conn1aw1.jpg
oddly the door counts can set which connector is used, and is confusing has hell.
the DLC on all USA 1995s is in front of the battery, the connector has a nice rubber cap and it pops off and has keeper. and you see 4 pins or 6, the colors matter too.
the DIAG wire is blue-yellow. ground pin is BLack , regardless of 4/6pin.s
4pins B to C blue-yellow to black
6pins pins 2 to 4 , same color.
this must work, the cel must flash 12s or the ECU is bad.
the CEL must glow, key on , MUST, and must flash on demand. flash something.
your are must be a Federal (USA) car, and has the stinking NAG light switch..
my nag page cover every type of nag switch made, on this car, (suzuki hides it in 3 places just to be like revenge for Hiroshima, LOL)
http://www.fixkick.com/CEL/NAG-Lamp.html
I personally remove the nag wires, from the speedo. I grap the 3 wire connector there and yank it of , for eternity, it has zero use, and only a pain to deal with , but that is how I do it.
now you can see the NAG switch hides a dead code 41 or 42,error. see? it will always, if in the wrong slider position
be nice to get codes from you ECU now, for sure.
have your read my cel page yet<> its all there. but lets go father
step 4, the nag is defeated and you insert the diagnostic jumper in the DLC, the DLC diag pins is now grounded to the black wired pin.
the CEL now flashes codes, it must
know that the diag pin can be used, 3ways all 100% safe.
A: keyon , even bad engines, only takes a good ECU and nag defeated.
B: idling
C: driving..
for get the o2 sensor please. my guess code 13 in the past, forget this now, 02 does not run spark in any way.
now lets say code 12, flashes, now. or 42 (42 mean ,dead cam, or dead distributor)
we then crank the engine for a full 5 seconds (the secret here is the ECU brain waits awhile before flagging (reporting) CMP Death. this is true on all cars with EFI.
so after 5 full seconds cranked, release the key do not tune off the key
give the ECU 2 minutes to report code 41, or 42. let it think about it, a minute. ok? key still on........
I am sorry for not telling you about the NAG first.
step 5 , later, depends on getting the NAG fixed, and then doing all above first.
my guess, so for is the NAG hides our very very important codes, (as all do that all federal cars do , not Canada nor California, nor ROTW(reset of the world, no)
I will await your getting flash codes
all ECu must flash CEL codes (any code, it must blink on demand !!!) on demand or the ECU IS DEAD or fuses blown, must.
this is why zero progress.
only the NAG.
on most cars made 1989+, the ECU will tell you why it cut spark, it will, if you do the tests right in the right order.
the key to success is ,letting it talk to you.
On 1996 car, and newer only a scan tool works, here.
the NAG switch FYI, is just to tell you that the CAT converter, needs to be checked due to running leaded fuel, (now long long gone) so is useless, remove the switch
so that if the CEL wants to flash far far from home on late dark night in freezing rain and engine died? car is old, so...
you never ever ever have to deal with this stupid switch. (in adverse conditions !)
that is why I remove it, for safety of you and family. (or anyone)
spark dead at coil HV , lug, dead spark (a key hard fact to work and allows me to forget 1/2 what I typed above.)
then you told me, code 12s ok then in later in text, you said opposite
"cel glows but doesnt flash even with jumper on the dlc block. can i jumper it in a different location? "
do not use CAS works (crank angle sensor , cam angle sensors so means zero) sorry. i used it ever and can not erase CAS.
CKP is crank , no 1992-1995 USA kick has one, ever. if seen there that means a 96 engine was put in your car, and will be have wires to it, on any 1995, (95 harness has no CKP wires ever)
so lets forget CKP and focus only on , ECU and on CMP., ok?>
I also have no idea what this is j811 ?
lets do basic basics, with ONLY 2 facts known.. (spark is dead, at HV coil tower lug using a test spark plug and tested just like all cars back to 1920. coil> wire, spark plug grounded shell.
no spark and CAM SPINS< the CAM MOST spin and he rotor in the distributor must spin cranked.
1: key on and all 3 fuses have 12vdc on both sides of fuse, (IG-coil, FI, and dome ) that is 3 fuses, all have power in 6 places (im doing acid tests here) using a volt meter 12dc,
2: key on the CEL glows.
3: OK you can not find the DLC, nor say if yours is 4 or 6 pin, SUz used both. (4door, 2door, 16v/ 8v) so..... looking only matters at the DLC actual. in front of battery.
the 6pins is here.
http://www.fixkick.com/CEL/DLC/CAL-car-diag2.gif
the 4 pin is same place but is
http://www.fixkick.com/CEL/DLC/diag-conn1aw1.jpg
oddly the door counts can set which connector is used, and is confusing has hell.
the DLC on all USA 1995s is in front of the battery, the connector has a nice rubber cap and it pops off and has keeper. and you see 4 pins or 6, the colors matter too.
the DIAG wire is blue-yellow. ground pin is BLack , regardless of 4/6pin.s
4pins B to C blue-yellow to black
6pins pins 2 to 4 , same color.
this must work, the cel must flash 12s or the ECU is bad.
the CEL must glow, key on , MUST, and must flash on demand. flash something.
your are must be a Federal (USA) car, and has the stinking NAG light switch..
my nag page cover every type of nag switch made, on this car, (suzuki hides it in 3 places just to be like revenge for Hiroshima, LOL)
http://www.fixkick.com/CEL/NAG-Lamp.html
I personally remove the nag wires, from the speedo. I grap the 3 wire connector there and yank it of , for eternity, it has zero use, and only a pain to deal with , but that is how I do it.
now you can see the NAG switch hides a dead code 41 or 42,error. see? it will always, if in the wrong slider position
be nice to get codes from you ECU now, for sure.
have your read my cel page yet<> its all there. but lets go father
step 4, the nag is defeated and you insert the diagnostic jumper in the DLC, the DLC diag pins is now grounded to the black wired pin.
the CEL now flashes codes, it must
know that the diag pin can be used, 3ways all 100% safe.
A: keyon , even bad engines, only takes a good ECU and nag defeated.
B: idling
C: driving..
for get the o2 sensor please. my guess code 13 in the past, forget this now, 02 does not run spark in any way.
now lets say code 12, flashes, now. or 42 (42 mean ,dead cam, or dead distributor)
we then crank the engine for a full 5 seconds (the secret here is the ECU brain waits awhile before flagging (reporting) CMP Death. this is true on all cars with EFI.
so after 5 full seconds cranked, release the key do not tune off the key
give the ECU 2 minutes to report code 41, or 42. let it think about it, a minute. ok? key still on........
I am sorry for not telling you about the NAG first.
step 5 , later, depends on getting the NAG fixed, and then doing all above first.
my guess, so for is the NAG hides our very very important codes, (as all do that all federal cars do , not Canada nor California, nor ROTW(reset of the world, no)
I will await your getting flash codes
all ECu must flash CEL codes (any code, it must blink on demand !!!) on demand or the ECU IS DEAD or fuses blown, must.
this is why zero progress.
only the NAG.
on most cars made 1989+, the ECU will tell you why it cut spark, it will, if you do the tests right in the right order.
the key to success is ,letting it talk to you.
On 1996 car, and newer only a scan tool works, here.
the NAG switch FYI, is just to tell you that the CAT converter, needs to be checked due to running leaded fuel, (now long long gone) so is useless, remove the switch
so that if the CEL wants to flash far far from home on late dark night in freezing rain and engine died? car is old, so...
you never ever ever have to deal with this stupid switch. (in adverse conditions !)
that is why I remove it, for safety of you and family. (or anyone)
http://www.fixkick.com