sport, 96 J18 engine sport, not the 96, G16 car? they are different. (some G16s have bodies in some countries, Canada? with word sport on side, and is not a real sport)
for sure stick shifted, M/t.
my guess a no crank engine failures, (full time or intermittent)
safety?
you mean the clutch switch above it pedal sure. ...
its not polarized at all, and can be bypassed. but not a good idea cruise. feature to bypass anything.
cruise need clutch and brake switch to be safe. it has both, so both switches, clutch and brake are dual.
first off after market switches come on 2 types. real OEM spec switch and GENERIC< that dont work.
you bought generic.
OEM parts fit and work,
wish I know all symptoms.
the word japan buys nothing,
Generics switches come on 2 forms, NO, and NC, normal open , or normally closed.
sure a generic can work hand wired in, but must be correct type..
first I will review G16, 96
the start line on the ignition switch
see here on my schematics page
shows blk-red goes to clutch sw.
the switch is normally open (foot off the pedal )
then driver depresses (its calibrated , see FSM for how)
then the switch closes, and shorts. allowing starter key line to go active out of the
switch. blk-yellow wire.
the car fitted with cruise, has a dual clutch switch
4 wire, id you miss that key fact on the old switch, and socket there?
the 2nd switch works the same way as the cranking key line
but is pins 1 and2 this time. blue wires. and does NOT use the cranks signal at all for cruise,
see page 8 here
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/1996/Full96%2...-power.pdf
this page only shows the 2nd half of switch. note the different wire colors (blue)and pin numbers.
and both are calibrated at once, not just thrown in.
the FSM on the G16 is free ask.
what's cool on the above drawing, it covers both engines, nice.
recap
its 4 wires
2 switches
it must be calibrated
all ive seen have a nut on the top that moves and allows you to set the switch calibration.
if set (adjusted )wrong the switch can fail.
they uses dual switches for a reason
so that one side fails does not cause, 2 horrible events,
starting in gear, and then having cruise run, with foot on clutch, double danger./
same with brakes for exactly the same reasons.
failure to kill cruise braked, or brake lamps stuck on or dead. etc.
dual switches are needed. on this car.
for sure stick shifted, M/t.
my guess a no crank engine failures, (full time or intermittent)
safety?
you mean the clutch switch above it pedal sure. ...
its not polarized at all, and can be bypassed. but not a good idea cruise. feature to bypass anything.
cruise need clutch and brake switch to be safe. it has both, so both switches, clutch and brake are dual.
first off after market switches come on 2 types. real OEM spec switch and GENERIC< that dont work.
you bought generic.
OEM parts fit and work,
wish I know all symptoms.
the word japan buys nothing,
Generics switches come on 2 forms, NO, and NC, normal open , or normally closed.
sure a generic can work hand wired in, but must be correct type..
first I will review G16, 96
the start line on the ignition switch
see here on my schematics page
shows blk-red goes to clutch sw.
the switch is normally open (foot off the pedal )
then driver depresses (its calibrated , see FSM for how)
then the switch closes, and shorts. allowing starter key line to go active out of the
switch. blk-yellow wire.
the car fitted with cruise, has a dual clutch switch
4 wire, id you miss that key fact on the old switch, and socket there?
the 2nd switch works the same way as the cranking key line
but is pins 1 and2 this time. blue wires. and does NOT use the cranks signal at all for cruise,
see page 8 here
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/1996/Full96%2...-power.pdf
this page only shows the 2nd half of switch. note the different wire colors (blue)and pin numbers.
and both are calibrated at once, not just thrown in.
the FSM on the G16 is free ask.
what's cool on the above drawing, it covers both engines, nice.
recap
its 4 wires
2 switches
it must be calibrated
all ive seen have a nut on the top that moves and allows you to set the switch calibration.
if set (adjusted )wrong the switch can fail.
they uses dual switches for a reason
so that one side fails does not cause, 2 horrible events,
starting in gear, and then having cruise run, with foot on clutch, double danger./
same with brakes for exactly the same reasons.
failure to kill cruise braked, or brake lamps stuck on or dead. etc.
dual switches are needed. on this car.
http://www.fixkick.com