Car chockes and Loose power on uphill

[fixkick]

welcome back, ill replay in line in color.

Strange issue with my car and I don't know where to look...

Well , the first symptom was that I needed to crank the car a few seconds more. (usually it was start in a second).
hard starts but cranks fast right?
After that I made some project of corrosion cleaning under the battery - so the car was without a battery for about 12 hours. Also at those 12 hours I changed a gear oil and when I filled the gear oil it spilled on the spark distributor and all whats under it. (I telling this because maybe one of this parts of the story can help to identify the problem). its 4speed out no oil to land on clutch, disc, so no harm no foul, but the distrib cap , oh boy.


Also after I finished to work on my car I still needed to move the car but the paint under the battery place still needed to dry - so I started the engine by connecting the battery ( + ) and ( - ) via cables to the ( + ) and ( - ) of the car. And after I started the car I removed the cables - and drove the car few minutes without the battery...
Sorry,Never ever do that, its ok back in 1960 with generators, do this with any alternator is asking to blow up all electronic in the car.
all of it. The regulator inside the ALT can go nuts and go over 20vdc, and 16 is the limit... so...... ouch, why do that?

After short time of driving my car started to choke... And the engine stalled as I arrived to the parking...
The next day I connected the battery and the engine started after a bit of cranking. But when I started to drive the car , it started to bounce (choke) again only at the accelerating point from zero speed.

I changed the spark plugs (although sparks was pretty new) and it fixed the bouncing (choking) issue at the start of the drive (and accelerating from zero).
BUT...
1. The car STILL needs a longer cranking even if the engine is still hot
2. When I drive uphill the car may suddenly loose power "drastically" and when I press the gas pedal it makes the car drive even slower.

(I recently cleaned the EGR, changed spark plugs, changed air filter and tried a new spark cables - nothing helps (..car shows code 12))
ouch no OBD2 system.
can it be the alternator / spark distributor / or some sensor ... ???

Please help to find the problem.

Thanks ahead.

I have no clues here,
chocking is engine power loss.
so do the spark tips turn black.?
oil get in side distrubutor or under side of cap, the inside.
that battery pull trick can be , nothing bad, happens , all things messed up. if you saw headlamps , any lamps flare, bam damage
asking the old ALT regulator to protect this illegal mode, is asking a lot.
The reg, shuts down for overheated, overcurrent and over voltage. some times not. toss coin.
all modern car books tell you never do that.
in the olden days,battery toasted, out it came , cables insulated say in rolled up newspaper, and we coast it down hill dump the clutch and it runs.
very bad this activity now.
too much to lose. cars today are chock-a-block full of electronics so we never go over 16v or risk that even under any conditions, including boost chargers from H3LL.
on newer cars the 3 phase diodes are zeners, that fire at 16+ volts, this old car has no such backup. if the reg fails.
the reg is your only protection, for overvoltage, and can fail.

is engine misfiring, or black smoke, or shaking or CAT red hot.
or smells funny , smell raw fuel.
spark tips, they tell alot.
cheers!

PS, drive with the diagnostic connector jumpered with 12s, drive and see if 12s mutate to xx?
its a safe test, no harm.