09-13-2016, 03:24 PM
(09-13-2016, 11:40 AM)fixkick Wrote: So it looks like as long as the MAF, IAT, ECT, TPS, and VSS1 is functioning on the engine, it won't go into failsafe mode. (no body knows for sure, just the book tells you, )
My donor tracker has a 4 speed auto, but that will be disconnected and not used obviously. (why would it be disconnected?)me confused. I'm not going to use the 4 speed auto at all, i plan on bolting the 1.6 16v to the samurai 5 speed transmission.
the 96 has separate TCM and will not shift right lacking stock ECU, (they talk,! ) i don't know the penalties,here,,,, at all.,
Since it is auto will it still go into failsafe since the transmission sensors are disconnected?
The TCM shares sensors with the ECU, (ect, and TPS are 2) and the ECU tells the TCM what engine rpm is, or the trans flat cant up shift.
the trans uses RPM and tail speed VSS2, sensor to shift. If the ECU cant see tail speed, it goes to limphome (tail is MPH)
Since the TCU is what goes into fail safe, it communicates with the ECU to tell it so, so if the TCU is removed completely, wouldn't it just trip any codes transmission wise?
I found a piggyback ecu that allows using the stock ECU in parallel and still have the protections in place for overboost and lean condition etc and the ability to control timing electronically. ( do they have proof with custmers happen running G16s') I haven't found any yet using the AEM piggyback.
The reason i hope to be able to use the stock ecu is the IAC valve is stepper operated,This is not true its a 12volt 15ohm 2 wire solenoid, PWM moduled at 200 hZ, So is it just an open and close valve? no various positions?
and the ECU's im looking to use cant operate this (correct for most) and i feel like it could get extremely complicated to make the idle up functions work, as well as idle up for power steering and such. why would you need idle up functions, dont ram steering in to stops, surely car has no AC, right?
are you using an Inter-cooler, and is that going in front of AC condenser? I plan on using the 1.6 16v power steering pump and gear box on my samurai so i can have power steering, man handling the samurai with 33" tires is very tiresome offroad heheh. My samurai currently has AC, and i was planning on fitting it to the 16v as well as the power steering pump. (it has been done and a company makes the bracket to fit both). I won't be using an intercooler since i'm not running high levels of boost.
I'm ok with a CEL light as long as it runs fine (probably wont have it wired to a light anyways). Limphome shuts down advanced, and id bet $100 the piggy back sure can not , get spark right if its going in and out of Failsafe. how could it.? Chaos is Chaos.
the arrogance of piggyback designers , is that they think they understand the ECU, THEY DON'T. (there are 53 markets and 15 years of G16s.
I bet they haven't tried them all. and for sure 1996, (the buggy year,)
In the 2 books one author stated, he had 2 choices, (after finding out above ) hire a team of software (firm) engineers to reverse engineer the ECU.
then fool it. after knowing all traps. (no lie some piggy backs work but when they dont, it can cost the lost of engine)
He said that takes to long and costs like $100,000 bucks, so we use real custom ecu, and not toy, mega-squirts. (THE NEWEST IS BETTER )
The pro, ECU, custom has no LIMP modes, and nor bad acts, (you do know stock ecu's can get lost right?) getting lost is long story but is easy to explain. later ill say.. the custom ECU has not DTC errors, so cant see errors at all, it only runs in SERVO mode. (with dash board)
back to ISC (or IAC electric)
if car has no A/T then you dont need idle regulation (the IAC is thermal, below TB), all stick drivers, need no such crutch, only A/T drivers.
one guy I know put an air valve on the dash, (air/vacuum bleed) and a label, "idle speed" the problem with A/T is moving the selector to drive from park.
this overloads the engine and may stall. so turn the dial to 1000 rpm; and shift to drive.(hehe_)
Point 2, you can buy a real stepper air valve from many places or off cars that have them. and the new ECU runs it, easy, you set rpm and trip points, easy.
and use that with real ECU.
the ECU to buy is HALTECH I checked out the haltech ECU's and they're out of my price range, the cheapest one is $900 without a harness (a little out of my budget). I was looking at the Megasquirt 2, it is a standalone fully programmable ECU that has VR and Hall sensor inputs so i can use the existing hall in the distributor, it can drive the high impedance stock injectors (or larger for more fuel which i will need). It has functionality to control PWM idle valves and on/off idle up valves. I can use the existing TPS, coolant temp sensor, and IAT with this controller, i will have to use a different MAF sensor though for boost since the stock one would max out, also a wideband 02 sensor. Also it has overboost protection where it cuts fuel and spark, also it has a rev limiter. Also theres an option for Knock detection.
These old ECU have this bug in it that it can get lost.
The ecu injects making wild assumptions
first on this car the MAF measure all air flows, and injects based on that, mostly. (and full time if the 02 is off line and goes to 12:1 AFR)
The ECU does not know or check fuel pressure, so if the fuel pressure goes over spec say bad FPR at 60psi., the ECU gets lost fast,
just goes super rich, if the 02 is online it tries, to pull in 14.7: one, and will never get there, it tries, and fails. what it does next , how knows, its LOST.
Keep in mind its programmed to keep the CAT working as and EPA prime directive, and may go to limphome it it can not do that.
when the CEL starts to flash, that is JUST THAT< , cat anti-melt prevention mode, or failsafe.
The truth is, don't use piggy backs. is always best, (blind trust is bad here,,, )
The sellers of piggy backs know the buyers can't afford real ECU, so have a captive audience and then hype away.... lies.
not once will they tell the bad side, the failures. (there are vast failures)
The ECU , reads the MAF constantly , what some piggy backs do is lie about the MAF output, (you sure cant unplug it, )
when not in boost its 1:1 and scaled down in boost.
when in boost they must over inject based on MAP (piggy) data and then scale the MAF to avoid it from topping out at ~4.5v (near 5v is failsafe .. )
Getting the MAF lies tuned right to fool the old ECU ,is a tap dance to hell. IMO "fun to watch at a distance yes." smoke em'
The old ECU thinks its injecting fuel, and is not. the piggy is. (by injector pulse intercede-meant or just raw rail pressure, both are lies to the old ECU)
The old ECU loading factors are all wrong, so load data to the trans is all wrong. (4speed AT) (maf data and RPM create internal load data)
the piggy back then takes over spark and fuel tables, the spark takes over the distributor , with OLD ecu unplugged from Distrib. The Piggy fires the ignitor direct. using its spark tables.
The TCM will never work right, under boost. (eating 200hp too)
I'm sure ive missed 100's of things that will be wrong, here.
for sure the 4sp transmission is "albatross around the neck" they do sell nice custom TCM and they work great, but again that is more money.
I'd put a big v6 in it, nothing beats displacement.
Keep in mind, this Suzuki is no Honddata, or toyota, with powerful, ECUs and tuning tools it's and underdog, nobody races, G16s. its a small club.
lots of Issues, and problems fooling old ECU,.
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I'm just trying to figure out what i will do. I love electronic tinkering and programming so this is right up my alley. It seems there are several out there running Megasquirt on their suzuki vehicles turboed. Thank you for answering my questions so far. Its a steep learning curve.