Suzuki Swift T3 conversion - engine no start

[fixkick]

the coil will spark if the voltage goes to 0v, holds there, for the 5mS seen on screen above
then if it releases, to 12v, the coil will induct, induction mode.
if this signal is good the coil is bad
if this signal is dead, the Ignitor is dead.
if the signal to the ignitor is good the ignitor is dead or has no power or ground.
or if the ignitor trigger is dead the ECU is bad, but if the inputs cmp or ckp are dead the the ecu will not fire its ignitor. (some of ours run with only CMP working (all G16b's do that) but most cars with CKP it must work, or no spark.

if direct coil spark is ok, then the rotor is timed wrong, or has junk china rotor, that is not indexed correctly.
or the distrib is timed wrong or 180 out, or wired wrong order to plugs, or wired CW when it should be CCW, (not sure what in this car)

the meter is only going to show averages.
what matters are clean signals,
some signals that are slow, can be checked with a meter, the needle wags on a CMP hall sensor, for example. 0v, the 5v, then 0v.
but if car has CKP and is just a 2 wire coil, not at all, the meter is useless here.
hall easy, coils only sensors impossible, lacking a scope.

the coil sensors, non hall, are just coils of wire and mag, and very very tiny signals there.

maybe this goofy system does not report cmp/ckp errors.
unplug them 1 by 1 and crank and see.? em? DTC fail?
if they throw errors good, if not, the ecu needs to be kicked thru the goal post of life, LOL.

The ecu says, the ignitor signal is wrong. in some way. (dead or weak or intermittant)

We will recheck the coil and dizzy spark plug order. The distributor rotor is identical to a Suzuki OEM part.

But since the igniter, ECU, and coil taken from my friend's non running car and installed into my running car, resulted in a perfect engine start, does this prove the parts are good? Is it more likely that we are dealing with a wiring fault that was not anticipated by the FSM procedures?

For example, the FSM does not include any trouble shooting scenarios that cover incorrect wiring that could occur during an engine harness swap, the FSM only covers open or shorted out wires.

there wires are all just as important as the sensor and actuators.
if you had a scan tool i bet it shows some dead, sensors.
some older cars with turbo even have this MAF, or VAF sensor that has flapper switch in it and if it sticks, no spark. no fuel.
we are working blind here, like there is no spark direct at the coil top, then The ECu can not fire the coil,
sure the part removed all work, but there are parts you missed, or timed wrong.
or other parts not discovered yet. for sure all input to the ecu matter. many are to get spark cranked.

the ECU fires the ignitor, this must be known first.
the ECU tells you it cant fire it., it dont know why? only that the spare read back pin reads wrong,, but it could be bad wiring from ECU to ignitor
if say you scanned at and saw ckp or cmp or rpm dead or intermittent, cranked, then you'd know those are the cause.

I can make spark work on the bench with the 8v ecu
cmp (simulator)
and coil , ignitor , and it makes spark, on a work bench.
but this 91 has no ckp at all, or other odd devices. to block spark.. that need to work ,that maybe a Turbo ecu wants working first.
that scope photos above is bench run, spark.

STIM word there means im using the Megasquirt STIM , (simulator ) it is a cmp /cpk generator, (oscillator )
this connected to the ECU CMP pin and it injects and sparks, instantly, after all car can gravity or push started, no starter motor in car.

so you have swapped ECU, that leaves wires or sensor you have yet to discover.
There are many turbo systems. some have extra fail safe sensors, and Im not sure on this car. never seen one.,

but here are some ideas, based on other cars
no oil pressure, (to turbo)
air flow vain VAF? stuck closed or failed in that mode, electrically like the early Mx5 Mazda turbos had... before electronic MAF. (same year too)_
starting in gear, or not in park, or park lock out failure? , if stick shift, clutch switch.
over heat sensor lying? wire fell off, any heat sensor, ect, iat, ac overheat, any heat sensor...
idle switch not closed?
that is all that is in my head this pm.
good luck to you.