your very welcome, mr, Zackman!
that is best.
cam timing, that is why I have a step in my procedure (step 42), to check compression, if that fails stop and correct errors.
there are many ways to get errors. (when done)
lash set wrong,?
cam timed wrong,?
bad valves.?
if you time it correctly and say just one cylinder is at 100psi, no need to put engine back together and drive. see? head needs to be pulled. (or lash corrected)
if all 4 cylinders read 100 , then the cam was timed wrong(sea-level , you are at 25 meters altitude, yes, sealevel)
yes, that needs to be edited, but i cant now,, i don't have admin on those pages, now.
let me explain
there are many ways to find TDC firing. i have a page just for that. http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/TDC/TDC.html
but in this case, there is no reason to do that, or some odd ways, Like blowing air in cylinder spark plug holes, with lips.
the valve cover is off, and the cam and valves are fully exposed.
there is also no need to do that, at all.
The HEEL, is the back side of the lobes.. and is the firing side of cam lobes, thusly
#4 is firing, when the 2 cam lobes on #4 (only) are at the rocker lifter contact points. (on a running engine (fully serviced), 2 valves lash is loose (per cylinder) means, its FIRING.)
but but but none of that matters, (its only commentary, and observation, to the belt installer, )
lets say the belt was installed wrong and the #4 rocker pair (you just looked there now) and were, on the lobes, lifting valves.
you'd know in 1 second you timed the cam , dead wrong, see?
and what might be wrong, that is easy, to say, you used the wrong KEY , the (I)key.
"I" is WRONG. (or use "I" marks, , all "I" marks are wrong)
if you used the "E"key and the 60a spoke, "E" outer edge mark (machine cut mark) (do you have this, cam cog type? with I/E keys? you never said,
if you use that correctly , there is no need to even look at the #4 valves or lobes. ever.
you can for confidence building sure. and validation.
sure wish I knew what cam cog wheel you have the 60a or the one with only 1 titty mark like the 1990 had. (the exact day suzuki changed in 1990 , ive no idea)
Facts:; the cam is in fact timed at #4 firing at TDC, and with rockers on #4 on heels of the cam, this is a fact.
"all valves, #4 with loose...." it should read, But on 8v you had them all set loose, (this comment is for 16v)
I used to have the 2 engines, on one page and then slit them in to 8v and 16v pages, so this comment is wrong, well needs to say look at lobes"
the timing is simple , there is no variances.
if the cam mark 60a, is at 12m aligned with top back pan mark this is #4 firing, the CAM design is fixed that way, no way to change that.
then
the crank is at 12pm, TDC firing, 0degrees, 12pm, at the top edge of the crank cog, is TDC 0, and the pump has TDC 0 ARROW both at 12pm.
the #4 and #1 pistons share this same TDC mark. ONLY the cam dictates which cylinder fires.
all that matters (timing wise ) is these 2 photos.
this shows, crank at TDC and cam at #4.
![[Image: donebelt1.jpg]](http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/donebelt1.jpg)
this shows the false marks, clearly , as you can see the CAM key IS down at 6pm, clearly. it also shows where 60a spoke goes. (up)
![[Image: 8v-cam-cog-close.jpg]](http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/8v-cam-cog-close.jpg)
see my 4 white painted marks.
the 4th mark unseen is the pump 12pm ARROW.
best is just time it , ignoring the #4 cylinder, comments, the FSM from Geo makes no mention of #4 at all.
ignore, #4 totally.
set it correctly using the correct marks!
then set lash. to spec. (rolling the crank per FSM pages)
then check compression, 150 PSI min. at your altitude. (is your gauge in BAR or kPa"?) 10.34 bar. minimum! at wide open throttle
it's good, now time the distributor, with the freeze jumper planted.
keep in mind if the distributor was removed, for any reason,
timing it will take patience. and futile if cam is timed wrong.
and know that it can be timed, with a none running engine. using a strobe light. (timing light) just cranking with fuel pump relay pulled.(green socket)
sure can, and you can turn the distributor, and get #1 to hit near 0 TDC, , then put back the fuel pump relay and engine now starts.
then plant the timing freeze jumper (hot) and set timing to 8deg. BTDC per the hash marks on the TDC scale. on front cover. 2,4,6,8 marks.
per my page (i added comments)
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/8v-pro...l#drawing2
2 degrees per tick. it is.
facts more??
if you set the static timing wrong
then scan tool report this
lies + added advance = reported timing
the vacuum line on the EGR is dead at idle on all G16;s made.
to the vsv or out of it, zero vacuum at idle.
this is double true.
1: ecu has valve closed.
2: TB , ported vacuum blocked.
that is best.
cam timing, that is why I have a step in my procedure (step 42), to check compression, if that fails stop and correct errors.
there are many ways to get errors. (when done)
lash set wrong,?
cam timed wrong,?
bad valves.?
if you time it correctly and say just one cylinder is at 100psi, no need to put engine back together and drive. see? head needs to be pulled. (or lash corrected)
if all 4 cylinders read 100 , then the cam was timed wrong(sea-level , you are at 25 meters altitude, yes, sealevel)
yes, that needs to be edited, but i cant now,, i don't have admin on those pages, now.
let me explain
there are many ways to find TDC firing. i have a page just for that. http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/TDC/TDC.html
but in this case, there is no reason to do that, or some odd ways, Like blowing air in cylinder spark plug holes, with lips.
the valve cover is off, and the cam and valves are fully exposed.
there is also no need to do that, at all.
The HEEL, is the back side of the lobes.. and is the firing side of cam lobes, thusly
#4 is firing, when the 2 cam lobes on #4 (only) are at the rocker lifter contact points. (on a running engine (fully serviced), 2 valves lash is loose (per cylinder) means, its FIRING.)
but but but none of that matters, (its only commentary, and observation, to the belt installer, )
lets say the belt was installed wrong and the #4 rocker pair (you just looked there now) and were, on the lobes, lifting valves.
you'd know in 1 second you timed the cam , dead wrong, see?
and what might be wrong, that is easy, to say, you used the wrong KEY , the (I)key.
"I" is WRONG. (or use "I" marks, , all "I" marks are wrong)
if you used the "E"key and the 60a spoke, "E" outer edge mark (machine cut mark) (do you have this, cam cog type? with I/E keys? you never said,
if you use that correctly , there is no need to even look at the #4 valves or lobes. ever.
you can for confidence building sure. and validation.
sure wish I knew what cam cog wheel you have the 60a or the one with only 1 titty mark like the 1990 had. (the exact day suzuki changed in 1990 , ive no idea)
Facts:; the cam is in fact timed at #4 firing at TDC, and with rockers on #4 on heels of the cam, this is a fact.
"all valves, #4 with loose...." it should read, But on 8v you had them all set loose, (this comment is for 16v)
I used to have the 2 engines, on one page and then slit them in to 8v and 16v pages, so this comment is wrong, well needs to say look at lobes"
the timing is simple , there is no variances.
if the cam mark 60a, is at 12m aligned with top back pan mark this is #4 firing, the CAM design is fixed that way, no way to change that.
then
the crank is at 12pm, TDC firing, 0degrees, 12pm, at the top edge of the crank cog, is TDC 0, and the pump has TDC 0 ARROW both at 12pm.
the #4 and #1 pistons share this same TDC mark. ONLY the cam dictates which cylinder fires.
all that matters (timing wise ) is these 2 photos.
this shows, crank at TDC and cam at #4.
this shows the false marks, clearly , as you can see the CAM key IS down at 6pm, clearly. it also shows where 60a spoke goes. (up)
see my 4 white painted marks.
the 4th mark unseen is the pump 12pm ARROW.
best is just time it , ignoring the #4 cylinder, comments, the FSM from Geo makes no mention of #4 at all.
ignore, #4 totally.
set it correctly using the correct marks!
then set lash. to spec. (rolling the crank per FSM pages)
then check compression, 150 PSI min. at your altitude. (is your gauge in BAR or kPa"?) 10.34 bar. minimum! at wide open throttle
it's good, now time the distributor, with the freeze jumper planted.
keep in mind if the distributor was removed, for any reason,
timing it will take patience. and futile if cam is timed wrong.
and know that it can be timed, with a none running engine. using a strobe light. (timing light) just cranking with fuel pump relay pulled.(green socket)
sure can, and you can turn the distributor, and get #1 to hit near 0 TDC, , then put back the fuel pump relay and engine now starts.
then plant the timing freeze jumper (hot) and set timing to 8deg. BTDC per the hash marks on the TDC scale. on front cover. 2,4,6,8 marks.
per my page (i added comments)
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/8v-pro...l#drawing2
2 degrees per tick. it is.
facts more??
if you set the static timing wrong
then scan tool report this
lies + added advance = reported timing
the vacuum line on the EGR is dead at idle on all G16;s made.
to the vsv or out of it, zero vacuum at idle.
this is double true.
1: ecu has valve closed.
2: TB , ported vacuum blocked.
http://www.fixkick.com