one click
so if the battery is charged and good (try a known goodbattery?) , that means
1: engine siezed. If you cant turn the crank pulley by hand it is siezed.
2: starter bad.
in that order...
when you took the starter off the main ground is on the top bolt mount of starter. was it? and was it nice and tight>? must be.
remove parts in snow, ive no idea, ive always used a garage. whole life.
or rented on, even for short time.
you dont have known good battery available? off a running car to try>?
that takes almost no tools.
jump starts need donor car, and good cables, as most cheap ones are useless.... (tiny copper gage is)
no voltmeter?
one click
battery discharged
battery weak.
battery totally bad.
battery not at 12.6v rested. (why not try a known good battery not or have yours tested in any shop or autostore in town, or charge the battery, with a charger,)
battery lugs loose or green
battery cable ground end not on top starter bolt , like new car had. or loose.
battery cable not tight, all 4 ends.
bad battery cables, see cracks in side, and green running out? bad. it is..
engine seized. (takes but a moment to hand turn any G16, it moves and the gets stiff, (compression stroke)
starter bad. (always last ) most do it first, then get angry. ($125 for no cure..... avoid this)
batteries are weak technology, some can fail in 3 short years, unlike most other parts on car, that is way we look there first.
1: jumper cable starts.
2: swap in a known good battery
3: TEST YOUR BATTERY.
We now know the key line is not dead.
we could save a ton of hard work and cash with a voltmeter.
sure could.
why work hard, use the meter..
here are live tests.
below 11v bad battery. (or 10v in alaska)
12.6v good battery resting, not cranking, not charging...
i crank and volts drops to 11v, sunny day, this is NORMAL. with full size battery , spec for car.
same i crank volts drop to way low say, 8v. bad battery ,shorted starter or seized engine.
I crank and volts are above 10v, or 11v, the starter is bad or cables open/or rusty.
i check voltage at the starter too, to see if my cables are bad. (huge voltage drop from battery to starter is bad cables.)
shorted starters are hard to diagnosis and are rare.
battery volts falls way too low cracking.
and my ammeter pegs at 500 amps, oops that is a shorted starter. 1 click. or chatters load. if voltage falls below 8v the solenoid chatters like mad.
so if the battery is charged and good (try a known goodbattery?) , that means
1: engine siezed. If you cant turn the crank pulley by hand it is siezed.
2: starter bad.
in that order...
when you took the starter off the main ground is on the top bolt mount of starter. was it? and was it nice and tight>? must be.
remove parts in snow, ive no idea, ive always used a garage. whole life.
or rented on, even for short time.
you dont have known good battery available? off a running car to try>?
that takes almost no tools.
jump starts need donor car, and good cables, as most cheap ones are useless.... (tiny copper gage is)
no voltmeter?
one click
battery discharged
battery weak.
battery totally bad.
battery not at 12.6v rested. (why not try a known good battery not or have yours tested in any shop or autostore in town, or charge the battery, with a charger,)
battery lugs loose or green
battery cable ground end not on top starter bolt , like new car had. or loose.
battery cable not tight, all 4 ends.
bad battery cables, see cracks in side, and green running out? bad. it is..
engine seized. (takes but a moment to hand turn any G16, it moves and the gets stiff, (compression stroke)
starter bad. (always last ) most do it first, then get angry. ($125 for no cure..... avoid this)
batteries are weak technology, some can fail in 3 short years, unlike most other parts on car, that is way we look there first.
1: jumper cable starts.
2: swap in a known good battery
3: TEST YOUR BATTERY.
We now know the key line is not dead.
we could save a ton of hard work and cash with a voltmeter.
sure could.
why work hard, use the meter..
here are live tests.
below 11v bad battery. (or 10v in alaska)
12.6v good battery resting, not cranking, not charging...
i crank and volts drops to 11v, sunny day, this is NORMAL. with full size battery , spec for car.
same i crank volts drop to way low say, 8v. bad battery ,shorted starter or seized engine.
I crank and volts are above 10v, or 11v, the starter is bad or cables open/or rusty.
i check voltage at the starter too, to see if my cables are bad. (huge voltage drop from battery to starter is bad cables.)
shorted starters are hard to diagnosis and are rare.
battery volts falls way too low cracking.
and my ammeter pegs at 500 amps, oops that is a shorted starter. 1 click. or chatters load. if voltage falls below 8v the solenoid chatters like mad.
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