sure you can, (the a/t starter is tiny bit more powerful) but i bet its not original, this old. they both are probably aftermarket starters. by now, and full power there.
'a non issues. for most folks,,,,
yes, working on cars in snow bank is no fun, not ever.
the ring gears are same... same size.
same mount, same reach, same teeth.
the A/T box uses power from the engine, cranking unlike a working M/t clutch,
the A/T box has a power sucking oil pump there. and with cold ATF fluid can make startine more difficult.
here is the listing at rock, (see?)
note they never ask transmission type. (the large starter is 1.7Kw. , some m/t (relics) are 1.5kw. and mostly not found today. why stock a weaker starter?
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframec...ttype=4152
on the sidekick side of ROCK... it states , by only one vendor.. (nice too)
WPS / POWER SELECT 17194N
Fits Standard trans.; 1.7kW Rating; Mitsubishi (this means they sell the powerful version)
Or Standard trans.; 1.4kW Rating; Mitsubishi
Or Automatic trans.; Mitsubishi Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction, 8T
i want you to know, all 3 of my sidekicks (trackers really all 3 had the gear reduction top , power, starters. and are A/T starters (more power.)
the only way to test a starter. is ,(best way, in a snow bank, (matters) how cold does it get there,? ive no idea but cold matters. and comes in wild degree's(no pun)
open hood, measure rested battery voltage. 12.65v is charged (20C). at 0C temp,. changed is 12.58 volt DC , on the terminals, rested.
if less, now is the time to charge the battery...
at zero C (0C) 12.2v is a 1/2 charged battery, and will not cut the mustard in cold weather. too slow cranks, or clicks or chatters here.
1: clean battery terminals first. and charge the cars battery now, who knows, it might be good.? and only discharged. (all snow people have chargers)
2: do the "AAA auto TOW", jumper cable start, using correct method off a running, donor car. connect ground last. to the running cars engine metal, (it will spark there) (safety first)
3: crank dead car after 3-5min running donor, using park, if park fails?, step on brake pedal, key on, and move shift'er to neutral. cranks now?
4: no crank NOW.? so what to do. sure it might just click,
5: leaving the ugly test for last. down UNDER. jumping the starter posts. best done in a Garage, on ramps of big person, or no ramps if skinny. (my car had 4wd factory bash plates on front below engine, that needed to be removed.... so..... depends on what you have...
my page covers how to do that. all that. Keys in pocket, for sure....
The a/t trans, blocks starting, in any gear but P or N. (safety laws...)
and can fail.... easy. but most times the N usually works, when P fails, (good chance due to not ever being used to pass current there.)
the PRNDL switch is what it is. P and N allows cranking, and the R glows the backup lamps.
if the a/t car is 4 speed, is it?
the PRNDL does lots more.... than this.
i see starters as weak as 1.0Kw sold for this car.... in all -in town. and none mention why nor, ask transmission types.
but in all cases, if you live in the cold, climates, not just 0C but less ? , some folks up north , get -40C temp,'s. (I get email all the time from them)
in that case, i'd go for a 1.7Kw starter, with gear reduction drive, as seen on all new A/t trackers.
or remove the m/t starter, and gander inside for the planetary gear set.
A car this old will not have numbers on the side of a starter,,, so.... only looking deep answers what you have...
happy new year, hope your troubles are just a green battery cable. end.
or Neutral starts ,work.
or just a discharged battery.
'a non issues. for most folks,,,,
yes, working on cars in snow bank is no fun, not ever.
the ring gears are same... same size.
same mount, same reach, same teeth.
the A/T box uses power from the engine, cranking unlike a working M/t clutch,
the A/T box has a power sucking oil pump there. and with cold ATF fluid can make startine more difficult.
here is the listing at rock, (see?)
note they never ask transmission type. (the large starter is 1.7Kw. , some m/t (relics) are 1.5kw. and mostly not found today. why stock a weaker starter?
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframec...ttype=4152
on the sidekick side of ROCK... it states , by only one vendor.. (nice too)
WPS / POWER SELECT 17194N
Fits Standard trans.; 1.7kW Rating; Mitsubishi (this means they sell the powerful version)
Or Standard trans.; 1.4kW Rating; Mitsubishi
Or Automatic trans.; Mitsubishi Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction, 8T
i want you to know, all 3 of my sidekicks (trackers really all 3 had the gear reduction top , power, starters. and are A/T starters (more power.)
the only way to test a starter. is ,(best way, in a snow bank, (matters) how cold does it get there,? ive no idea but cold matters. and comes in wild degree's(no pun)
open hood, measure rested battery voltage. 12.65v is charged (20C). at 0C temp,. changed is 12.58 volt DC , on the terminals, rested.
if less, now is the time to charge the battery...
at zero C (0C) 12.2v is a 1/2 charged battery, and will not cut the mustard in cold weather. too slow cranks, or clicks or chatters here.
1: clean battery terminals first. and charge the cars battery now, who knows, it might be good.? and only discharged. (all snow people have chargers)
2: do the "AAA auto TOW", jumper cable start, using correct method off a running, donor car. connect ground last. to the running cars engine metal, (it will spark there) (safety first)
3: crank dead car after 3-5min running donor, using park, if park fails?, step on brake pedal, key on, and move shift'er to neutral. cranks now?
4: no crank NOW.? so what to do. sure it might just click,
5: leaving the ugly test for last. down UNDER. jumping the starter posts. best done in a Garage, on ramps of big person, or no ramps if skinny. (my car had 4wd factory bash plates on front below engine, that needed to be removed.... so..... depends on what you have...
my page covers how to do that. all that. Keys in pocket, for sure....
The a/t trans, blocks starting, in any gear but P or N. (safety laws...)
and can fail.... easy. but most times the N usually works, when P fails, (good chance due to not ever being used to pass current there.)
the PRNDL switch is what it is. P and N allows cranking, and the R glows the backup lamps.
if the a/t car is 4 speed, is it?
the PRNDL does lots more.... than this.
i see starters as weak as 1.0Kw sold for this car.... in all -in town. and none mention why nor, ask transmission types.
but in all cases, if you live in the cold, climates, not just 0C but less ? , some folks up north , get -40C temp,'s. (I get email all the time from them)
in that case, i'd go for a 1.7Kw starter, with gear reduction drive, as seen on all new A/t trackers.
or remove the m/t starter, and gander inside for the planetary gear set.
A car this old will not have numbers on the side of a starter,,, so.... only looking deep answers what you have...
happy new year, hope your troubles are just a green battery cable. end.
or Neutral starts ,work.
or just a discharged battery.
http://www.fixkick.com