the meter again is bipolar, the DMM can read -5v or +5v.
unlike any analog meter, unipolar.
yes that is what measure across these 2 pins means,
connect the meter leads to the 2 pins, (any order)
red to one , black test lead to the other, it hard to do, backprobing, as are all cars made, this is an acquired skill. with patience.
ok you die it wrong.
do not use the battery lugs, no not use the engine metal.
we want to see what the ECU is doing to the ISC only (rubber meet the road testing , the real deal)
its just 2 wires connect up and read it. backprobled,
your DMM could care LESS the polarity, (digital it is , with bipolar amps inside) un like any needle meter,
to this , learn to use your meter
dial up, 20 VDC range.
now connect the 2 test leads to a 9 volt (smoke det. battery) in 60s called a "transistor radio battery"
see that LDC< see that + sign or - minus sign
now reverse the leads, see the sign change, and still read 9v. bingo, meter is BIPOLAR..
if you worked on computers you'd see minus power supplies, like -12v , and -5vdc, very common,
when folks say car runs great, it means zero to me.
seen 1000s say that, in limphome and backup modes.
what it means is car moves. ok, kinda.....
and a trail of black smoke behind it.
i told you can take any 90s car that runs and find 5 or more thing wrong, very wrong. (never seen an exception)
the car is designed to run with bad things... unlike any carb car made, EFI runs, under horrid conditions.
my lawn more runs, and has no spark advance. zero !
see?
so will back up mode and will run just like lawn mower, black smoke everywhere.
I'm from Missouri.
show me!
i never assume, why do that?
your car will not idle right,
i can list 20 things wrong that can cause that..
assuming is wrong to any tech,
we assume there is one thing, a car there, NOTHING ELSE.
The mech, drives car, scans it , check to see if all sensor read rigth.
see that close loop works at hot idle and light cruise.
and that the EGR works and the idle switch and the idle controls all wokr.
all this in a test drive , that i cant do.
i can find like 5 things wrong in 5min, sometimes, seconds.
by sight , sound , and felt. (smelt, raw HC black smoke, fuel leaks smells, burning oil... , and overheated CAT i can smell fast but not here.)
your car id have heared the idle wrong (hot) in 1 second., and that it not regulating in 1`min.
if you had a real tachometer
we'd have seen idle too low, way back when
see?
see how tools make the man (makes a tech savvy)
just by knowing what 800 means.... and holding.
i can hear misfire
i can see and engine shake at idle.
i can hear the isc hunt
i can see the ISC not working at all in what 5 min work. or less, (fixing it way longer)
i can see 12s flashing driving for 1hour,
i can test the idle switch to see if it works 10 times in a row.. no less. blip, blip, blip, yup seems to work.
then make sure the isc pinch test works.
then check spark timing, if way off, setting the Duty cycle is a total waste of effort.
in about 1hr work i can check all things on the engine, using tools. with a scan tool faster.
the car is old , somethings are bad. some weak. some flakey,
what's new here? nothing, all old cars are like that. all are.
never seen one example opposite.
unlike any analog meter, unipolar.
yes that is what measure across these 2 pins means,
connect the meter leads to the 2 pins, (any order)
red to one , black test lead to the other, it hard to do, backprobing, as are all cars made, this is an acquired skill. with patience.
ok you die it wrong.
do not use the battery lugs, no not use the engine metal.
we want to see what the ECU is doing to the ISC only (rubber meet the road testing , the real deal)
its just 2 wires connect up and read it. backprobled,
your DMM could care LESS the polarity, (digital it is , with bipolar amps inside) un like any needle meter,
to this , learn to use your meter
dial up, 20 VDC range.
now connect the 2 test leads to a 9 volt (smoke det. battery) in 60s called a "transistor radio battery"
see that LDC< see that + sign or - minus sign
now reverse the leads, see the sign change, and still read 9v. bingo, meter is BIPOLAR..
if you worked on computers you'd see minus power supplies, like -12v , and -5vdc, very common,
when folks say car runs great, it means zero to me.
seen 1000s say that, in limphome and backup modes.
what it means is car moves. ok, kinda.....
and a trail of black smoke behind it.
i told you can take any 90s car that runs and find 5 or more thing wrong, very wrong. (never seen an exception)
the car is designed to run with bad things... unlike any carb car made, EFI runs, under horrid conditions.
my lawn more runs, and has no spark advance. zero !
see?
so will back up mode and will run just like lawn mower, black smoke everywhere.
I'm from Missouri.
show me!
i never assume, why do that?
your car will not idle right,
i can list 20 things wrong that can cause that..
assuming is wrong to any tech,
we assume there is one thing, a car there, NOTHING ELSE.
The mech, drives car, scans it , check to see if all sensor read rigth.
see that close loop works at hot idle and light cruise.
and that the EGR works and the idle switch and the idle controls all wokr.
all this in a test drive , that i cant do.
i can find like 5 things wrong in 5min, sometimes, seconds.
by sight , sound , and felt. (smelt, raw HC black smoke, fuel leaks smells, burning oil... , and overheated CAT i can smell fast but not here.)
your car id have heared the idle wrong (hot) in 1 second., and that it not regulating in 1`min.
if you had a real tachometer
we'd have seen idle too low, way back when
see?
see how tools make the man (makes a tech savvy)
just by knowing what 800 means.... and holding.
i can hear misfire
i can see and engine shake at idle.
i can hear the isc hunt
i can see the ISC not working at all in what 5 min work. or less, (fixing it way longer)
i can see 12s flashing driving for 1hour,
i can test the idle switch to see if it works 10 times in a row.. no less. blip, blip, blip, yup seems to work.
then make sure the isc pinch test works.
then check spark timing, if way off, setting the Duty cycle is a total waste of effort.
in about 1hr work i can check all things on the engine, using tools. with a scan tool faster.
the car is old , somethings are bad. some weak. some flakey,
what's new here? nothing, all old cars are like that. all are.
never seen one example opposite.
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