A/T 4speed fails, car wont move until hot.

[zukitrek]

yes ,right wires... (did you tell me before you are color blind?, sorry if you are, very sorry)
No im not, but saw the wires real quick, sent you the post, I was waiting for you response, I was in a hurry, then I reviewed schem and did test. Was not going to send you another post saying "I found the wire". Water under the bridge. But no color blindness here.
the idle switch tells the ECU, I'm at idle now, and the ISC goes online for idle. servo.
the TPS idle switch. (all cars do this, the j18/20 sees 0.5v on throttle angle and goes IDLE now. no switch.) we have a real switch here, and it must work.
its the first thing to calibrate on any G16, or many things fail, freeze jumper, idle, EGR, and cut fuel mode. of ecu.
first.

those are correct wire
i think now , your DMM does not like that 200 hz square wave, MANY DONT.
there are only trying more meters, even an analog needle meter might work.


a DMM is a bipolar meter, the DC meter can be connected up backwards and works prefect in fact the LCD will show - or + to tell you what it is.
for example the car battery will read, -12.6 vdc with leads backwards, it all ok.
that.So it would not matter pos or neg to any of the ISC wires? But probes should be at the wires right, not neg to ground, say if pos is on any of the 2 wires? Im not asking this now, I let you know how I did test n my last post, that neg probe was a engine metal.
but not the needle meter, the needle goes backwards and hits the peg, telling the OPr, that leads backwards, the progress of electronics...
some meters do not like 200hz on the DC scales.
nor will any work on AC as that cheap meter only does RMS volts, which we dont want.

nah really, many posters newer seen and EFI car run rigth. lots not..
make frames of reference hard. huh?Well this is my 2nd EFI car(had a 94 sunbird) and to my limited knowledge I can say they both run right, until problems arise due to old age and no maintenance.
like never riding a horse not sick then one day, OMG im going 40mph..... on this old nag. (she must be feeling her OATS)

TPS:
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/tests/TPS...html#MYWAY

TPS cal is first and for sure if the switch don't close every single time you drop the hammer(throttle)
it must every time, or it OUT OF CAL.

the tps switch goes to 0v at idle.
blue-white wire as seen here.
So you think I should check this just to rule this out. Remember as under my ownership none of these things you mention have been tampered with or molested: TPS switch, bleed screw, TV stop screw etc. But maybe old age is affecting now.

http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/8v-tbi-schematic91to95.jpg


this needs to work 100% of the time, or bad things happen. its very key sensor.

OoooK señor Fix.