yes ,right wires... (did you tell me before you are color blind?, sorry if you are, very sorry)
the idle switch tells the ECU, I'm at idle now, and the ISC goes online for idle. servo.
the TPS idle switch. (all cars do this, the j18/20 sees 0.5v on throttle angle and goes IDLE now. no switch.) we have a real switch here, and it must work.
its the first thing to calibrate on any G16, or many things fail, freeze jumper, idle, EGR, and cut fuel mode. of ecu.
first.
those are correct wire
i think now , your DMM does not like that 200 hz square wave, MANY DONT.
there are only trying more meters, even an analog needle meter might work.
a DMM is a bipolar meter, the DC meter can be connected up backwards and works prefect in fact the LCD will show - or + to tell you what it is.
for example the car battery will read, -12.6 vdc with leads backwards, it all ok.
that.
but not the needle meter, the needle goes backwards and hits the peg, telling the OPr, that leads backwards, the progress of electronics...
some meters do not like 200hz on the DC scales.
nor will any work on AC as that cheap meter only does RMS volts, which we dont want.
nah really, many posters newer seen and EFI car run rigth. lots not..
make frames of reference hard. huh?
like never riding a horse not sick then one day, OMG im going 40mph..... on this old nag. (she must be feeling her OATS)
TPS:
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/tests/TPS...html#MYWAY
TPS cal is first and for sure if the switch don't close every single time you drop the hammer(throttle)
it must every time, or it OUT OF CAL.
the tps switch goes to 0v at idle.
blue-white wire as seen here.
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/8v-tbi-schematic91to95.jpg
this needs to work 100% of the time, or bad things happen. its very key sensor.
the idle switch tells the ECU, I'm at idle now, and the ISC goes online for idle. servo.
the TPS idle switch. (all cars do this, the j18/20 sees 0.5v on throttle angle and goes IDLE now. no switch.) we have a real switch here, and it must work.
its the first thing to calibrate on any G16, or many things fail, freeze jumper, idle, EGR, and cut fuel mode. of ecu.
first.
those are correct wire
i think now , your DMM does not like that 200 hz square wave, MANY DONT.
there are only trying more meters, even an analog needle meter might work.
a DMM is a bipolar meter, the DC meter can be connected up backwards and works prefect in fact the LCD will show - or + to tell you what it is.
for example the car battery will read, -12.6 vdc with leads backwards, it all ok.
that.
but not the needle meter, the needle goes backwards and hits the peg, telling the OPr, that leads backwards, the progress of electronics...
some meters do not like 200hz on the DC scales.
nor will any work on AC as that cheap meter only does RMS volts, which we dont want.
nah really, many posters newer seen and EFI car run rigth. lots not..
make frames of reference hard. huh?
like never riding a horse not sick then one day, OMG im going 40mph..... on this old nag. (she must be feeling her OATS)
TPS:
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/tests/TPS...html#MYWAY
TPS cal is first and for sure if the switch don't close every single time you drop the hammer(throttle)
it must every time, or it OUT OF CAL.
the tps switch goes to 0v at idle.
blue-white wire as seen here.
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/8v-tbi-schematic91to95.jpg
this needs to work 100% of the time, or bad things happen. its very key sensor.
http://www.fixkick.com