01-15-2015, 12:04 PM
compression over 170 ?
my 1929 car is 100psi
lawn mower 100psi
my 68 vw bug ,is 100
but my v6 is 200 180 or above warm and for sure over 170 cold, this is a high compression engine and needs to be good.
only real numbers matter, my grandpa is happy at 100. but he never saw one of these High Flut'n ,new fangled engines.
the compression passing spec, tells me 2 things,cam timed right, and valves not bent. at least.
the engine will run on test, fuel with the gas tank missing, sure will.
and will run for 3 seconds for each spray of test fuel
but the spark needs to be set right. now way early not 30 degr, before ted. Btdc.
why engine runs with one spark plug missing, is at loss to me.
so is vacuum steady, at 19 inchs, running? (spark out IT RUNS) , SURE WILL BE loud but only for air blasting there.,
if exhaust exits that spark plug hole, your cam is timed all wrong.
you said loud but in what way? the air blast from induction attempting to compress air fuel and leaking or, what?
remove the fuel pump relay , and crank using test fuel
watch scott do his magic.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=064Ilsz8...ature=fvwp
the 6 cops, must be connected to the correct low voltage connector
the static time is 5 degr, BTDC .
the compression on all 6, beats 170 psi
the engine runs on test fuel,
the CEL lamp (dash cluster) GLOWS, KEY ON , if not fuse blow, or ECU DEATH.
the Cel blinks code 12, with diagnostic jumper inserted , MUST.
the CEL keeps blinking 12s, cranked for 5 seconds, release key and blinks 12, not 41,,42, or or other codes. ( THE ECU TALKS,,LISTEN)
vacuum of 5 inches Hg cranked., if not, cam TIMED wrong, or cat melted or some insane intake air leak
vacuum goes to near 20 inches HG, idling, if it runs.
i can not fathom the spark out deal. very odd that
timing wrong, cam and spark.
is the spark out rule works on any of 6 plugs? tedious test that.
if just one cyclinder, does that, then has valve action or leakage issues.
say and intake valve was burned causing huge loss of intake vacuum, making others fail. so you pull the spark and helps intake vacuum.
you do know how add spark wire to cop to spark top ,so the timing light works right, correct?
and extention wire.
if compression is 170 psi +
and spark realLy is good X6, it must start on test fuel. ONE BAD COP?
there are other reasons to fail, (flat cam) EGr STUCK OPEN, MELTED CAT
ITS REALLY FLOODING?
IF Flooding, pull the, fuel pump relay, and run on test fuel only. this proves engine and spark are good,
spark wet in fuel is flooding
cause by bad spark, bad timing, or too high fuel pressure,leaking injectors,etc,
pull the fuel pump relay and start there), (less is more, in many cases, ) might be 3 probems. so, 1 step at a time ,finds them.
my 1929 car is 100psi
lawn mower 100psi
my 68 vw bug ,is 100
but my v6 is 200 180 or above warm and for sure over 170 cold, this is a high compression engine and needs to be good.
only real numbers matter, my grandpa is happy at 100. but he never saw one of these High Flut'n ,new fangled engines.
the compression passing spec, tells me 2 things,cam timed right, and valves not bent. at least.
the engine will run on test, fuel with the gas tank missing, sure will.
and will run for 3 seconds for each spray of test fuel
but the spark needs to be set right. now way early not 30 degr, before ted. Btdc.
why engine runs with one spark plug missing, is at loss to me.
so is vacuum steady, at 19 inchs, running? (spark out IT RUNS) , SURE WILL BE loud but only for air blasting there.,
if exhaust exits that spark plug hole, your cam is timed all wrong.
you said loud but in what way? the air blast from induction attempting to compress air fuel and leaking or, what?
remove the fuel pump relay , and crank using test fuel
watch scott do his magic.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=064Ilsz8...ature=fvwp
the 6 cops, must be connected to the correct low voltage connector
the static time is 5 degr, BTDC .
the compression on all 6, beats 170 psi
the engine runs on test fuel,
the CEL lamp (dash cluster) GLOWS, KEY ON , if not fuse blow, or ECU DEATH.
the Cel blinks code 12, with diagnostic jumper inserted , MUST.
the CEL keeps blinking 12s, cranked for 5 seconds, release key and blinks 12, not 41,,42, or or other codes. ( THE ECU TALKS,,LISTEN)
vacuum of 5 inches Hg cranked., if not, cam TIMED wrong, or cat melted or some insane intake air leak
vacuum goes to near 20 inches HG, idling, if it runs.
i can not fathom the spark out deal. very odd that
timing wrong, cam and spark.
is the spark out rule works on any of 6 plugs? tedious test that.
if just one cyclinder, does that, then has valve action or leakage issues.
say and intake valve was burned causing huge loss of intake vacuum, making others fail. so you pull the spark and helps intake vacuum.
you do know how add spark wire to cop to spark top ,so the timing light works right, correct?
and extention wire.
if compression is 170 psi +
and spark realLy is good X6, it must start on test fuel. ONE BAD COP?
there are other reasons to fail, (flat cam) EGr STUCK OPEN, MELTED CAT
ITS REALLY FLOODING?
IF Flooding, pull the, fuel pump relay, and run on test fuel only. this proves engine and spark are good,
spark wet in fuel is flooding
cause by bad spark, bad timing, or too high fuel pressure,leaking injectors,etc,
pull the fuel pump relay and start there), (less is more, in many cases, ) might be 3 probems. so, 1 step at a time ,finds them.
http://www.fixkick.com