Thanks, and yes.
was yours 8v or 16v?, his is 8, and the works differently....
yes, #1 on my list , bad fuel pressure, there are 3 tests alone on the REG.
(harbor freight as a 20 buck gauge, and ends all the guessing with 15min work, with the suzuki hose for free. in the deal.)
The regs, are mostly all bad, now, this is a very old car, they have many failure mode. (stick open closed or leaking)
stuck open, (causes (8v) causes low fuel pressure, and bogging at all times HOT and for sure WOT)
stuck closed, extreme high fuel pressure, 60PSI (spec) and higher, seen 65 on many this will double fuel rates..... real bad this.....
PLUS IT WILL: (60psi) over 41 is totally WRONG.
and horrid rich, and fill everything with fuel, oil pan, exhaust
and will cause black smoke (called unburned fuel) out the tail pipe, (breathing it) just as the CAT converter glows red and burns out .
it also cause misfiring, badly as the spark plug tips all turn black.
Lots of evidence there and MISFIRE. yes, do look at spark tips...
the 8v the FP REG is only for altitude fuel correction (due to injector is on the no plenum side of throttle)
That means driving around the block , the pressure holds steady.
the 16v FP reg, is in the plenum side (see that vacuum hose?) and this is vastly more complex. ill just say it keeps the fuel pressure constant ACROSS the 4 injectors (if not, all hell lets loose on 16v, and will skip that as this an 8v only post)
Nah>!
my recycle center lets me throw 5 gallons of fuel away on top of there, big oil tank, Gas is just light oil. and think about it , crude has 50% gas in it out of the ground, (no hyracracking needed) i do this all the time due to classic cars not getting run fully.
Any time EFI runs rich, out comes the pressure gauge first.
The EFI system on this car depends on this pressure to be at spec and can not SENSE it, like new cars can.
EFI is blind to that failure. and is the Achilles heal of all old EFI systems.
What I dont have are all his symptoms.
does it misfire? , you can feel , hear and see misfire? (not smooth clean bogging ,but violent misfire) on new cars it sets P0300 DTC and friends.
see the gear shift handle shake
hear it(rata tat tat tat)
feel the hard throb of misfire in seat of pants. (if it misfires hood up, you can in fact see engine shake)
what is common, is to have the pump fail too. or the classic, pump ground wire fail on all 2 door cars. he never told us what car he has yet.
here is the gauge, in use:
http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/TBI-conn-1w.jpg
there are 3 or so, FPreg tests, key on, idle and WOT(parked)gun engine watch it.
the one more, the leak down test(see my fuel pump page?)
you get say, 35psi fuel idle
you cut the key and the pressure must hold. if not the injector leaks, (that too, makes EFI all wrong)
Suzuki calls that test the residual test.
A fuel gauge is an indispensable tool, in any shop.
(i keep one that runs remotely with 2 wires, so i can watch driving, BAM got you ! i have other pump tests, one is current spikes,
all pumps as they near end-0-life , love to drop segments, (starts pulsing) early warning, there. (have videos)
the gauge tool is not a wallet killer
http://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-inject...92699.html
hose on right is Suzuki fit.
Back on track , bogging: 8v.
fails hot only 8valve TBI G16A engine, (no doors stated on car sadly)
the 2door loves to fail pump wires behind left rear tail light covered on my pump page.
"I press the accelerator and fails. I have to press the accelerator to the end (WOT WORKS) and there reacts. "
what i dont have is this. (evidence)
1: does it misfire.?
2: does moving the throttle say 1/4 more does the power return?
3: does this BOG self correct after a moment ? not WOT, we know that corrects.
4: does this only moving and at all speeds?
5: never at idle does it bog with rapid right foot action in Neutral or park?
6: no black smoke,? out tail.
7: no red hot CAT?
8: Exhaust manifold not glowing red?
9: CEL flashes 12's all the time, even driving , and at BOG? (yes, the jumper works parked and driving ,just perfectly)
10: no back firing, no muffler explosions.
11: FUEL PRESSURE AT SPEC? http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/pump.html
12: SPARK PLUG TIPS NOT jET BLACK AFTER BOG?
13: OIL PAN NOT FULL OF GAS? SURE.
14: 8v injector pass the drip test? (key on 3 times the off, does it drip?) a super easy 8v test, the injector is in plain view. (snorkel off)
15: MAP sensor TESTS PASS, SEE my map page? very very easy to do test.
16: ECT reads 300 ohms hot and holds? easy too, stop engine, remove connector , ohm it.
17: 2 door pump ground not rusty like most are, and more every day?
that is about it.
for sure I dont know, but seen them all. i just need more EVIDENCE.
was yours 8v or 16v?, his is 8, and the works differently....
yes, #1 on my list , bad fuel pressure, there are 3 tests alone on the REG.
(harbor freight as a 20 buck gauge, and ends all the guessing with 15min work, with the suzuki hose for free. in the deal.)
The regs, are mostly all bad, now, this is a very old car, they have many failure mode. (stick open closed or leaking)
stuck open, (causes (8v) causes low fuel pressure, and bogging at all times HOT and for sure WOT)
stuck closed, extreme high fuel pressure, 60PSI (spec) and higher, seen 65 on many this will double fuel rates..... real bad this.....
PLUS IT WILL: (60psi) over 41 is totally WRONG.
and horrid rich, and fill everything with fuel, oil pan, exhaust
and will cause black smoke (called unburned fuel) out the tail pipe, (breathing it) just as the CAT converter glows red and burns out .
it also cause misfiring, badly as the spark plug tips all turn black.
Lots of evidence there and MISFIRE. yes, do look at spark tips...
the 8v the FP REG is only for altitude fuel correction (due to injector is on the no plenum side of throttle)
That means driving around the block , the pressure holds steady.
the 16v FP reg, is in the plenum side (see that vacuum hose?) and this is vastly more complex. ill just say it keeps the fuel pressure constant ACROSS the 4 injectors (if not, all hell lets loose on 16v, and will skip that as this an 8v only post)
Nah>!
my recycle center lets me throw 5 gallons of fuel away on top of there, big oil tank, Gas is just light oil. and think about it , crude has 50% gas in it out of the ground, (no hyracracking needed) i do this all the time due to classic cars not getting run fully.
Any time EFI runs rich, out comes the pressure gauge first.
The EFI system on this car depends on this pressure to be at spec and can not SENSE it, like new cars can.
EFI is blind to that failure. and is the Achilles heal of all old EFI systems.
What I dont have are all his symptoms.
does it misfire? , you can feel , hear and see misfire? (not smooth clean bogging ,but violent misfire) on new cars it sets P0300 DTC and friends.
see the gear shift handle shake
hear it(rata tat tat tat)
feel the hard throb of misfire in seat of pants. (if it misfires hood up, you can in fact see engine shake)
what is common, is to have the pump fail too. or the classic, pump ground wire fail on all 2 door cars. he never told us what car he has yet.
here is the gauge, in use:
http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/TBI-conn-1w.jpg
there are 3 or so, FPreg tests, key on, idle and WOT(parked)gun engine watch it.
the one more, the leak down test(see my fuel pump page?)
you get say, 35psi fuel idle
you cut the key and the pressure must hold. if not the injector leaks, (that too, makes EFI all wrong)
Suzuki calls that test the residual test.
A fuel gauge is an indispensable tool, in any shop.
(i keep one that runs remotely with 2 wires, so i can watch driving, BAM got you ! i have other pump tests, one is current spikes,
all pumps as they near end-0-life , love to drop segments, (starts pulsing) early warning, there. (have videos)
the gauge tool is not a wallet killer
http://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-inject...92699.html
hose on right is Suzuki fit.
Back on track , bogging: 8v.
fails hot only 8valve TBI G16A engine, (no doors stated on car sadly)
the 2door loves to fail pump wires behind left rear tail light covered on my pump page.
"I press the accelerator and fails. I have to press the accelerator to the end (WOT WORKS) and there reacts. "
what i dont have is this. (evidence)
1: does it misfire.?
2: does moving the throttle say 1/4 more does the power return?
3: does this BOG self correct after a moment ? not WOT, we know that corrects.
4: does this only moving and at all speeds?
5: never at idle does it bog with rapid right foot action in Neutral or park?
6: no black smoke,? out tail.
7: no red hot CAT?
8: Exhaust manifold not glowing red?
9: CEL flashes 12's all the time, even driving , and at BOG? (yes, the jumper works parked and driving ,just perfectly)
10: no back firing, no muffler explosions.
11: FUEL PRESSURE AT SPEC? http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/pump.html
12: SPARK PLUG TIPS NOT jET BLACK AFTER BOG?
13: OIL PAN NOT FULL OF GAS? SURE.
14: 8v injector pass the drip test? (key on 3 times the off, does it drip?) a super easy 8v test, the injector is in plain view. (snorkel off)
15: MAP sensor TESTS PASS, SEE my map page? very very easy to do test.
16: ECT reads 300 ohms hot and holds? easy too, stop engine, remove connector , ohm it.
17: 2 door pump ground not rusty like most are, and more every day?
that is about it.
for sure I dont know, but seen them all. i just need more EVIDENCE.
http://www.fixkick.com