good morn.
yes, use the DMM meter, use ohms scale low. this forms a continuity tester, that can in fact test any switch, for open and close.
its just a simple switch, one step more complex that say a 1850s Edison Knife switch.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knife_switch
zero ohms is closed. (same reading as meter leads shorted) basic electricity....
infinity is open ( same reading with meter not connected on ohms)
the switch only has one yellow wire (that means it has NO stripes) this wire goes to the fuse called "Turn/ Back" see the drawing it is clear, no?
here ill do a full session test.
the Blinker relay was dead, the power to it was dead, so....... (and fuse is good, and hot 12vdc on both sides)
i find the yellow wire , has 12vdc, to the combo is dead. 0volts key on, suggesting (strongly) that Combo switch assembly, is bad.
i remove combo assembly. (not apart)
i then check the yellow wire pin 19 combo (solid not stripped) 12vdc power wire, to the output of the blinker. with my meter red test lead (set to low ohms scale)
at the same time, i connect. my meter black lead to.
the other Combo pin. 3, that is , yellow-white (white means stipe) other schematics show, yellow-green or yell-blue.
i move the blink lever to right then left the meter must show 0 ohms when selected. if that the combo is bad.
so i take it apart
and again find the solid pin 19 yellow wire. i again, connect my OHM meter (short for resistance scale lowest) to the this yellow wire (solid)
i then find the contact on the card, that shows 0 ohms, this finds the correct contact.
if savvy you can follow the pcb traces from yellow solder pad to the contacts.... yes. there are 2 ways....
once found clean those contacts with scotch brite pads (like mom uses for dishes)
then find the other matching side, clean those. and look for missing springs. or deformed slider, on that side. to that switch. clean , bend as necessary to get the
contacts to work
in some cases, (using wrong fuses) the contact slider, structure (plastic ) melted and no longer fits right and the slider can no longer apply tension to the contacts
this is called , Bad combo day, buy a new one if it can not be repaired. most can but, id have to touch it and see it in 3D vision, to see why it failed.
its real expensive over 200 bucks
https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinf...cc=1271427
the drawing again.
![[Image: 3_22_11_14_1_58_45.jpeg]](http://www.fixkick.com/bbs2/Suzuki-bbs/gallery/3_22_11_14_1_58_45.jpeg)
one other odd fact on working on electrics.
the colors in the book are Suzuki main harness colors, only.
so, if the car has say a mitsubish, comb switch (or other brands , Denso, who knows... huh?)
those switch side colors will be different with different switch makers , on the switch side, Suzuki can not dictate this side, see? Suzuki just buys them and uses them. (same with sensors)
you must learn to read the harness side, first. then......
lets pretend to do that now, see the fuse is yellow wired (again, no stripe)
i see it is yellow as it enters the combo plug pin 19... see that?, now look at the switch side?, that is the color used for 19 on your cars switch, write that down.?
now find the harness yel/wht, then find color at pin 3, on the combo side. it might be yellow green. ?
at this time you now know where pins 3 and 19 are...
and can do the simple continuity tests.
we are testing the continuity of pins, 3 and 19, in left then right mode.
we then find the contacts that wire to pin 3. "yellow no stripe"
that is first.
and last we find out why the contacts 3 fail.
they are just contacts, they are not magic or electronics or other technology just the same as used by thomas edison and mr. Tesla.
the contacts are just brass. and are spring loaded.
the fail only 2 basic ways
1: dirty contacts (corroded or eroded)
2: lost spring tension by any means. (bent, or heat damaged and bent , or lost spring, or melted plastic ,such that the springs are left inactive)
yes, use the DMM meter, use ohms scale low. this forms a continuity tester, that can in fact test any switch, for open and close.
its just a simple switch, one step more complex that say a 1850s Edison Knife switch.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knife_switch
zero ohms is closed. (same reading as meter leads shorted) basic electricity....
infinity is open ( same reading with meter not connected on ohms)
the switch only has one yellow wire (that means it has NO stripes) this wire goes to the fuse called "Turn/ Back" see the drawing it is clear, no?
here ill do a full session test.
the Blinker relay was dead, the power to it was dead, so....... (and fuse is good, and hot 12vdc on both sides)
i find the yellow wire , has 12vdc, to the combo is dead. 0volts key on, suggesting (strongly) that Combo switch assembly, is bad.
i remove combo assembly. (not apart)
i then check the yellow wire pin 19 combo (solid not stripped) 12vdc power wire, to the output of the blinker. with my meter red test lead (set to low ohms scale)
at the same time, i connect. my meter black lead to.
the other Combo pin. 3, that is , yellow-white (white means stipe) other schematics show, yellow-green or yell-blue.
i move the blink lever to right then left the meter must show 0 ohms when selected. if that the combo is bad.
so i take it apart
and again find the solid pin 19 yellow wire. i again, connect my OHM meter (short for resistance scale lowest) to the this yellow wire (solid)
i then find the contact on the card, that shows 0 ohms, this finds the correct contact.
if savvy you can follow the pcb traces from yellow solder pad to the contacts.... yes. there are 2 ways....
once found clean those contacts with scotch brite pads (like mom uses for dishes)
then find the other matching side, clean those. and look for missing springs. or deformed slider, on that side. to that switch. clean , bend as necessary to get the
contacts to work
in some cases, (using wrong fuses) the contact slider, structure (plastic ) melted and no longer fits right and the slider can no longer apply tension to the contacts
this is called , Bad combo day, buy a new one if it can not be repaired. most can but, id have to touch it and see it in 3D vision, to see why it failed.
its real expensive over 200 bucks
https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinf...cc=1271427
the drawing again.
one other odd fact on working on electrics.
the colors in the book are Suzuki main harness colors, only.
so, if the car has say a mitsubish, comb switch (or other brands , Denso, who knows... huh?)
those switch side colors will be different with different switch makers , on the switch side, Suzuki can not dictate this side, see? Suzuki just buys them and uses them. (same with sensors)
you must learn to read the harness side, first. then......
lets pretend to do that now, see the fuse is yellow wired (again, no stripe)
i see it is yellow as it enters the combo plug pin 19... see that?, now look at the switch side?, that is the color used for 19 on your cars switch, write that down.?
now find the harness yel/wht, then find color at pin 3, on the combo side. it might be yellow green. ?
at this time you now know where pins 3 and 19 are...
and can do the simple continuity tests.
we are testing the continuity of pins, 3 and 19, in left then right mode.
we then find the contacts that wire to pin 3. "yellow no stripe"
that is first.
and last we find out why the contacts 3 fail.
they are just contacts, they are not magic or electronics or other technology just the same as used by thomas edison and mr. Tesla.
the contacts are just brass. and are spring loaded.
the fail only 2 basic ways
1: dirty contacts (corroded or eroded)
2: lost spring tension by any means. (bent, or heat damaged and bent , or lost spring, or melted plastic ,such that the springs are left inactive)
http://www.fixkick.com