to do that test right,
its best to not have any blinker lamps in the car, (i told you they short easy and you ignore this fact)
the relay will not LIKE short lamps or lamp feed wires. not at all.
its your choice to start under the dash, not mine, i start with
all new bulbs or no bulbs.
or just one blub ONLY. on left rear tail.
then test left blinkers, do this lamp work?
yes, or no.
then i pull the relay and bench test it. ok it works.
I then have no lamps in the car. all removed, all blinkers.
then i do test 1 to 8 list above, and use a tea-
see page 3 and 4 here, blickers full schematic?
see the green wire at each light, it must not be grounded out. but if one side were grounded, just that side would fail.
http://www.fixkick.com/power-elect/95%20...mps95b.pdf
this is why I test the relay in the car, steps 1 to 8 first.
this is the middle of the circuit and we gain great knowledge testing here, at the relay
(eg, bad relay or pin 2 or 3 is dead.)
see?
if pin 3 is dead at relay then the combo is dead.
if pin 2 is dead, with DMM and with a test light per steps 1 to 8 , if step 6 fails the relay is bad. end story.
why not just do step 6 first. ?????
using a DMM then a test light
the test light can be any 12vdc lamp (not a LED) the test lamp simulates the normal heavy load of the blinkers.
some blinkers will not blink unless there is a minimum load.
here is the guts of the relay.
my drawing, this is all I know about it, i do not know the trip thresholds for , under load or overload, but it does have them.
![[Image: blink-guts.jpg]](http://www.fixkick.com/look/blink-guts.jpg)
most of these relays , have overload sensors and underload.
that is why LEDs fail on cars that use this blinker.
and why they blink at a funny rate of under loaded or overloaded. (by design) some relays go dead, with no lamp loads.
some do that, if one lamp is out (odd rate), warning driver that , yes, a lamp is out.
and some owners of cars, buy a new blinker relay that is not stock or that was sold as "works with LEDs"
so that is why I do the tests , in a worst case method, with a DMM and a real test light.
see?
its best to not have any blinker lamps in the car, (i told you they short easy and you ignore this fact)
the relay will not LIKE short lamps or lamp feed wires. not at all.
its your choice to start under the dash, not mine, i start with
all new bulbs or no bulbs.
or just one blub ONLY. on left rear tail.
then test left blinkers, do this lamp work?
yes, or no.
then i pull the relay and bench test it. ok it works.
I then have no lamps in the car. all removed, all blinkers.
then i do test 1 to 8 list above, and use a tea-
see page 3 and 4 here, blickers full schematic?
see the green wire at each light, it must not be grounded out. but if one side were grounded, just that side would fail.
http://www.fixkick.com/power-elect/95%20...mps95b.pdf
this is why I test the relay in the car, steps 1 to 8 first.
this is the middle of the circuit and we gain great knowledge testing here, at the relay
(eg, bad relay or pin 2 or 3 is dead.)
see?
if pin 3 is dead at relay then the combo is dead.
if pin 2 is dead, with DMM and with a test light per steps 1 to 8 , if step 6 fails the relay is bad. end story.
why not just do step 6 first. ?????
using a DMM then a test light
the test light can be any 12vdc lamp (not a LED) the test lamp simulates the normal heavy load of the blinkers.
some blinkers will not blink unless there is a minimum load.
here is the guts of the relay.
my drawing, this is all I know about it, i do not know the trip thresholds for , under load or overload, but it does have them.
most of these relays , have overload sensors and underload.
that is why LEDs fail on cars that use this blinker.
and why they blink at a funny rate of under loaded or overloaded. (by design) some relays go dead, with no lamp loads.
some do that, if one lamp is out (odd rate), warning driver that , yes, a lamp is out.
and some owners of cars, buy a new blinker relay that is not stock or that was sold as "works with LEDs"
so that is why I do the tests , in a worst case method, with a DMM and a real test light.
see?
http://www.fixkick.com