Hello sir.
Well some smoke came from the combo switch and somehow this affected the shift lever lock mechanism. I disassembled the whole combo switch and nothing looked burnt or melted. This is in addition to the no crank issues which have been on and off and it has been my bad for not checking the wires at the battery (at least the negative, cause positive along with terminal had been replace well before this). I ended up removing the turn signals fuse and removing completely the shift lock solenoid (is this bad?). My question is where would that black wire from the combo end near the fuse box. I know this from a old post I saw (I think it was you) which they tell the person to look for this when turn signals are acting up.
Thanks for your help.
J
Update, Fix. All wire/cables coming to battery are inspected clean and in good shape, only the alternator wire that goes into under the hood fuse box was bad but now has been repaired.
The black wire at the combo switch looks Ok and not burnt from what I could see (too many wires going everywhere)
J
Well some smoke came from the combo switch and somehow this affected the shift lever lock mechanism. I disassembled the whole combo switch and nothing looked burnt or melted. This is in addition to the no crank issues which have been on and off and it has been my bad for not checking the wires at the battery (at least the negative, cause positive along with terminal had been replace well before this). I ended up removing the turn signals fuse and removing completely the shift lock solenoid (is this bad?). My question is where would that black wire from the combo end near the fuse box. I know this from a old post I saw (I think it was you) which they tell the person to look for this when turn signals are acting up.
Thanks for your help.
J
Quote:anything electric that overloads, can fail , weaken or have lower service life.
the bulbs can short.
so the right front blinks perfectly (or dimly) and the RR is dead, dim or what.
LF ok
LR ok
RR what? dead or dim?
RF what?
seems if only RR is bad, then RR is shorted. but is it dim or dread. dime would be shorted and out would be bad lamp or wire cuts. or corrosion in the socket.
this system is super simple system, no computers behind the tails lamps and all that complexity.
just a bulb, a socket and a wire.
100years same thing simple.
the fuse many not blow in an overload
that is because the blinker module, cuts current in 1/2 , flash, out, flash out. 1/2.
and it also limits current.'
and is designed to act odd under overloads.
and the cheap weak suzuki wiring, will act as a current limit, (small copper gauge)
the right side is wired in PARALLEL. so any short on that side, causes and overload. front or rear, or between.
any open on that line will only effect that end of car.
fixkick
click above for , lots of diagnosis and repair data !Idea
[quote='zukitrek' pid='2870' dateline='1414366641']
KIk, I have put the 15a fuse back and turn signal still don't work. I disassembled the combo switch after the smoke event to see if anything was burnt (none was) and when assembling back the hazard connector was left out, Does this has to do with turn signals not working? Now none of the signals work, rear or front.
Update, Fix. All wire/cables coming to battery are inspected clean and in good shape, only the alternator wire that goes into under the hood fuse box was bad but now has been repaired.
The black wire at the combo switch looks Ok and not burnt from what I could see (too many wires going everywhere)
J
Sidekick 94, 1.6L Engine 16v
4 spd Auto Tranny
4 Door 2RWD
Puerto Rico
4 spd Auto Tranny
4 Door 2RWD
Puerto Rico