if you close the TV 99 to 100 % then back off, just the smallest amount so the TV does not stick that is all there is to that.
and proves you have a huge air ,leak and only where is the question.
a dead CEL means 2 things, lamp burned out or ECU is bad. not testing the lamp means you will not know 2 things, ECU dead, or DTC errors. running any car with no CEL is a very hard way to fix cars... near impossible. (no scan tool) on newer cars i pay it no mind and use my scan tool for ALL.
Rule one all cars get the CEL to work (OBD1 cars)
this is a great car (perfect infact) to learn EFI,, super easy TBI system , just one injector, and only a map for air flow calcs. super easy system.
rule 1. TBI , all air leaks cause a too fast idle.
and if it leaks too much, the ISC will not be able to cure, gross air leaks, (ISC electric) even a new one,cant.
that is super you have a FSM, you will never be sorry having one. i promise. it will pay for its self, no matter the car.
a true investment with real returns.....
ok , I use off the shelf, mastic putty. sold at all big box hw stores, home depot or what ever...
or ductseal
http://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-DS-...ct+Sealant
used in ducts and by all electrician, in commercial, power panels and where they want to stop water ingress to electrics.
never gets hard and sticks like mad. is best.
see this port here.
block this first. (clean with carb cleaner, so the clay can stick and not get sucked in the engine.
page 12 covers this
http://www.fixkick.com/fresh-air/Slide_S...ge_12.html
lets see page 1. see this hole.? just above H2O , I bet you have a TB air leak to that hole, I do thinks so..
if the ISC is blocked off or (turned off) the only leak there would be IAC,
2 things feed that hole ,(assumes the TB center gasket is not sucked in like many do) the IAC and ISC feeds that 1 hole.
if i owned 89/90 id add a fire wall ISC cut switch (SPST) so i could do easy diagnosis. if you open the switch and idle is not 400 rpm or stalling, it's got leaks.
![[Image: manifold%20differences.jpg]](http://www.fixkick.com/fresh-air/Slide_Show/images/manifold%20differences.jpg)
to get a good iac, i had to buy 2 more used Throttle bodies, and finally got one that works. (3 speedo heads to get a working VSS and odometer and speedo)
relate?
see hose 33 here,
is that not sucking with advancing throttle action, this line is ported vacuum and only sucks when accelerating.
as you see fitting 22, splits this ported vacuum to dizzy and to egr. this allows the EGR to be never active at idle.
if the TB base gasket is wrong, blocking the porting, hole, there will be no vacuum advance and you will waste fuel with that land loose low end torque from engine.
some of these old 8v, they have like 5 things wrong just with the TB. from bad service, wrong parts, or missing.
for sure the only hard thing with TBI setup is testing all TB parts. getting them all working is not easy , many a time.
takes hard work. (best is to have and attic full of TB parts, used,) IMO
i found buying OLD whole intake manifolds with TB setting on it , was way cheaper than buying a tb, NEAT
most wrecking yards are devoid of any 89 cars much less, sidekick G16a engines (gen 1)
ebay i only viable source. or begging on craigs list. i do that all the time WTB.
wanted to buy, 89/90 bla bla..
you did not post a photos of the TB. so i can only assume its still stock.
do you have the correct gasket there.
page 19 in my TB slide show ,presents, this.
![[Image: throttlebodygasketkit8v.jpg]](http://www.fixkick.com/fresh-air/Slide_Show/images/throttlebodygasketkit8v.jpg)
please post full spec on car.
door count.?
a/t or m./t?
2wd or 4wd.?
how many miles on engine.
and fix CEL lamp
now lets cover that.
the FSM covers this step. under ECU and step 1, it says , key on, cel on, if not do this
they have you remove the ECU connector (it's got a lock tab, like all suz do, never force any conn. on car. ) and you remove it.
and ground out (jumper wire) the CEL pin B13 and the lamp must glow. (do not do that to ECU , do that to the connector pin)
wire color violet yellow, (violet with yellow stripe)
the lamp is not hard to change.
that is on my speedo page
many evil previous owners love to remove the CEL to sell car with faults, bad boys.
or tape it with black tape, or cut the wire. evil has no bounds.
the lamp is a GE #18 lamp
http://www.fixkick.com/power-elect/clust...r-out.html
we can find each fail and deal with each , in many ways. 1 by 1,
ok?
and proves you have a huge air ,leak and only where is the question.
a dead CEL means 2 things, lamp burned out or ECU is bad. not testing the lamp means you will not know 2 things, ECU dead, or DTC errors. running any car with no CEL is a very hard way to fix cars... near impossible. (no scan tool) on newer cars i pay it no mind and use my scan tool for ALL.
Rule one all cars get the CEL to work (OBD1 cars)
this is a great car (perfect infact) to learn EFI,, super easy TBI system , just one injector, and only a map for air flow calcs. super easy system.
rule 1. TBI , all air leaks cause a too fast idle.
and if it leaks too much, the ISC will not be able to cure, gross air leaks, (ISC electric) even a new one,cant.
that is super you have a FSM, you will never be sorry having one. i promise. it will pay for its self, no matter the car.
a true investment with real returns.....
ok , I use off the shelf, mastic putty. sold at all big box hw stores, home depot or what ever...
or ductseal
http://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-DS-...ct+Sealant
used in ducts and by all electrician, in commercial, power panels and where they want to stop water ingress to electrics.
never gets hard and sticks like mad. is best.
see this port here.
block this first. (clean with carb cleaner, so the clay can stick and not get sucked in the engine.
page 12 covers this
http://www.fixkick.com/fresh-air/Slide_S...ge_12.html
lets see page 1. see this hole.? just above H2O , I bet you have a TB air leak to that hole, I do thinks so..
if the ISC is blocked off or (turned off) the only leak there would be IAC,
2 things feed that hole ,(assumes the TB center gasket is not sucked in like many do) the IAC and ISC feeds that 1 hole.
if i owned 89/90 id add a fire wall ISC cut switch (SPST) so i could do easy diagnosis. if you open the switch and idle is not 400 rpm or stalling, it's got leaks.
to get a good iac, i had to buy 2 more used Throttle bodies, and finally got one that works. (3 speedo heads to get a working VSS and odometer and speedo)
relate?
Quote:NO vacuum the line of the vacuum advance line to the distributor.is Dizzy vacuum advance
see hose 33 here,
is that not sucking with advancing throttle action, this line is ported vacuum and only sucks when accelerating.
as you see fitting 22, splits this ported vacuum to dizzy and to egr. this allows the EGR to be never active at idle.
if the TB base gasket is wrong, blocking the porting, hole, there will be no vacuum advance and you will waste fuel with that land loose low end torque from engine.
some of these old 8v, they have like 5 things wrong just with the TB. from bad service, wrong parts, or missing.
for sure the only hard thing with TBI setup is testing all TB parts. getting them all working is not easy , many a time.
takes hard work. (best is to have and attic full of TB parts, used,) IMO
i found buying OLD whole intake manifolds with TB setting on it , was way cheaper than buying a tb, NEAT
most wrecking yards are devoid of any 89 cars much less, sidekick G16a engines (gen 1)
ebay i only viable source. or begging on craigs list. i do that all the time WTB.
wanted to buy, 89/90 bla bla..
you did not post a photos of the TB. so i can only assume its still stock.
do you have the correct gasket there.
page 19 in my TB slide show ,presents, this.
please post full spec on car.
door count.?
a/t or m./t?
2wd or 4wd.?
how many miles on engine.
and fix CEL lamp
now lets cover that.
the FSM covers this step. under ECU and step 1, it says , key on, cel on, if not do this
they have you remove the ECU connector (it's got a lock tab, like all suz do, never force any conn. on car. ) and you remove it.
and ground out (jumper wire) the CEL pin B13 and the lamp must glow. (do not do that to ECU , do that to the connector pin)
wire color violet yellow, (violet with yellow stripe)
the lamp is not hard to change.
that is on my speedo page
many evil previous owners love to remove the CEL to sell car with faults, bad boys.
or tape it with black tape, or cut the wire. evil has no bounds.
the lamp is a GE #18 lamp
http://www.fixkick.com/power-elect/clust...r-out.html
we can find each fail and deal with each , in many ways. 1 by 1,
ok?
http://www.fixkick.com