Need some help

[fixkick]

so i changd the rear and front axle oils. i also changed the transmission oil wiith penzoil synchromesh. 
i wanted to change the transfer case oil, but the top oil screw is stripped. i can open the bottom drain one if i want to. 
is there a way to add the correct amount of oil without removing the top oil screw? Maybe through the speedo / gear part that slips out from the t-case (the one with the 10mm bolt on back of transfer case). or by removing the rear slip yoke / seal and adding it through there? 
NO, we just use tig./mig welder and fast , weld on a bolt to the stripped hole, cured.



I forget if car hood says CALIF or not and if the ECU is CALIF or not.  both matter, for works right and smog man not angry.
about the high idle / surging: 
i have to replace the EGR valve because i broke one of the metal nipples thast connects to hosing.
Oreily has the california egr valve for my car -
i can install that one and make sure to install the thermoprobe -
the thermoprobe wiring just wouldnt connect to anyting, correct? 
the CAL EGR fit  any FED/cal car, only the wires are not used on FED. nor are there wires in the harness for  it  if Fed car, , fed harness, and fed ECU. 
The FED EGR  fails hard on any CALIF car (ECU tag number looks up as CALIF, Code 033 ecu , code 03 is FED. see? the ECU part number matters  most of all, then harness too.
what matters is what ECU p/n# is there

hopefully once i replace the ECT sensor/sender, the STAT, the EGR valve, and then get a CAT installed and fix the hole in the exhaust pipe, this willl all resolve the high idle and surging during warmup....
EGR will not cure surge,, only dead ECT in this will, nor new cat make engine run better  but egr + cat does stop pinging sure.

but you did just mention that a broken EGR valve or lack of back pressure wouldnt cause high idle or surging....so hopefully the issue is with the stat or ECT sensors....not sure what else it might be...the ISC is new. 

lots of things cause  idle fail and or surges,  not cat, not EGR.

idle is dead if ECU does not show 12s all the time, limphome cancels idle controls and that is a fact and out  of control idle.
The first part to replace is the STAT all  cars 1989 to now run super bad with a cold running STAT so is a first order failure, hard,  
then fuel pressure,
and DTC 12 all the time ,you can drive this car with the DLC jumper installed all day long to see if code 12 runs all day long,  sure can., and fully safe,
do not drive with timing freeze jumper inserted or burn up the cat you will. rule 2.
the EGR purpose is  to stop NOX pollution +cat does that., just one goal,  the ECU  tests is crude,  but the stall test on my EGR page must pass( finger test)
the EGR is closed at idle on all these cars  (ECU logic) and there for  not effect idle ever. if idling at code 12. (EGR main not stuck open sure)
can not. it is disabled at idle and in your case double disabled with missing cat and no back pressure to make the EGR MOD work at all.

sure and next is  after a bad STAT is replace, learn that some STAT when they fail lock open (the so called fail safe stats) and then car runs SUPER  SUPER RICH and stalls or surges
A STAT  came fail 3 ways,  too hot , too cold or way to slow.  even taking 30  miles to hit 180f. all bad, nothing worse really than this simple device bad,  a slam dunk part.
the top makers tells it is a 7 year life part,  so is on par with bad battery life.

The ECT must read 300 ohms or less.(unplugged hot)
the eCt must go to 0.65vdc (same as 300ohms but back probed testing hot engine fully)  if reads wrong the stat must be tested next. or simply replaced and if not get 0.65vdc you are done. with ECT worry. easy no:?

next is fuel pressure. in spec,  if at 50PSI the FPR is bad, and is common now, it is a relic now this regulator. or return line blocked to tank.

this is but a start in diagnosis,
if lucky it ends at STAT,  and is first test on all EFI cars,  if the ECT signals engine is cold all the time the ecu runs very rich fuel, and never good that.