1989 suzuki sidekick wont stay running

[fixkick]

Thanks for the reply's.

1. Tested ECT 2.2 cold, 300 ohm hot.  (GREAT !)
2. I temporarily blocked the dizzy vacuum advance hose since it was leaking.
3. Yes I unplug the ECT and the map sensor and it doesn’t make a difference on running. Also cannot get the computer to show any codes while doing that.
4. I tested another ignition coil from a store and it tested the exact same as mine.
5. Fuel pressure is 37 psi and steady.
6. Injector wires look in good shape and normal.
7. I tested map voltage at ecu and it shows perfect reading with vacuum applied and at idle.
8. I took dizzy completely apart all seems to operate smooth and looks good.
9. I adjusted the air graph to the minimum of .008 and started it to see if it ran the same. It did. I adjusted it to the max of .016 and it ran the same also.
10. I retested my spark out of the coil and out of each plug wire with a test light so I could get a better look at spark and see how far I can jump it. Out of the coil it’s quite strong and almost pure blue spark jumps about 1.2 inch. At the end of the plug wires it’s about .5 inch jump and orange/yellow with a tiny bit of blue spark. A lot weaker. I could post a video on youtube if you guys are interested.
11. Dizzy cap is Bosch, rotor is Napa/echlin brand, wires blue NGK, all new at time of motor rebuild 2+ years ago. Distributor hasn’t been replaced and looks original.
12. I also tried unplugging injector and using test fuel again to run. It ran the same and doesn’t want to run and unless I feather throttle slightly. (lacks aIR FOR SURE HOT ENGINE)
13. If I had to guess I would say dizzy is my problem but I don’t like guessing. Is my next step to get a oscilloscope to be able to test/diagnose better. Is there any more test I can do? I plan on purchasing the pico 2204a for a scope and a handful of accessories. Ignition pick up, attenuator, back probes, and alligator clips.
13. I have noid lights but I don’t think it would help me with testing?

Thanks for all the help.

"Yes I unplug the ECT and the map sensor and it doesn’t make a difference on running. Also cannot get the computer to show any codes while doing that."

this is a sign of bad ECU,  it seem to me it is stuck in BACKUP mode, 10x worst that, than LIMP home.

ECT open must set the code for that condition, it usually takes but a few seconds max to get that.  (there are 1 of 2 places the DLC jumper locations on 89./s) so that too is a problem finding it..
code 14 is ECT not connected, voltage to high.
12 code is good code (happy dogs tail wagging)
you must get some code no matter what, on your demand. (at DLC pins)


DLC oldest.  the so called DIAG FUSE , slot.




on othere years.91 up. or GM/.  the blue-yellow wire is always the color to find.
or on some newer 6 pin jacks, ask

battery is just to rear of this point,  I am facing rear now. and down to top right strut, USA Passenger side.  91 Geo tracker factory Corvette RED. paint.  (at CAMI plant)





so far all tests look normal.  (but runs super bad)


backup mode, is the worst to happen, the ECU knows that it , itself is bad, so goes to BACKUP mode. (this event is super rare,if true)

my guess is that only the TPS is factored for fueling,  a 1 sensor operation , all based off 1 factor throttle angle and will not be pretty that, super ugly running.

but for now lets find that BLue-yellow wire

bACKUP MODE WILL KILL DEAD MANY NORMAL MODES OF OPERATION, LIKE IDLE AIR AND IDLE CONTROLS, its only purpose is to move car out of danger if is true.
Injection tables are now backup tables and those are  going to be very bad.(crude as heck)

lets find the real DLC. (89-2004 examples)

https://fixkick.com/CEL/DLC/DiagJump.html