Missing oil pressure switch?

[fixkick]

Ok so i have another thread going on my CEL being out for which i have ordered the #18 GE bulb as well as a #74 GE bulb for the left turn blinker on the dash (all else works). 

HOWEVER that didnt really address the OIL PRESSURE LIGHT that is also out..

and i was looking at the engine and i cant find my oil pressure switch.
ok the pressure switch on on the left center of the engine block, in fact it is ported to the main engine oil gallery 1.



In fact i found a plug where i think its located but no sensor just a bolt into the block..
yes and is common the switch love to leak, for sure bumped, and the lazy put in a plug,  but needs metric pipe plug so using a USA NPT , USA national pipe plug
will in fact cross threading, this, my page on oil pressure answers this all exactly. seen here


Is it supposed to be located in between the oil filter and the exhaust manifold on the driver's side of the 1.6L 8v TBI engine? It so..mine just has a screw plugged into the hole. No switch unit or anything. ( well some one monkey Fracked that)

here is me using metric to uSA NPT adpator to a gauge real.
https://www.fixkick.com/engine/97-motor-pull/images/pressure-good.jpg


here is my page on the magic of sensor threads.
BSPT thread is not really metic not USA NPT but BSPT, an odd BRITISH thread.

but using a real suzuki sender avoids all this threaded pain, for sure.

The a/c was bypassed in this (which is why the wire hanging disnt alarm me more cuz i figured it nwas for the ac compressor)

AC is and added OPTION on this car, with its own AC harness..
but alas..i found a picture that showed a wire that loops above the timing cover with a neat little corrugated black jacket around it and routed back over to where the a/c compressor was.
Wire just hanging there..i deduced from the picture that this wire is what goes to my oil pressure switch and its just entirely missing and wire hanging.
THE AC has  engine over heat sensor (right side of engine, and is only switch) if engine over heats (see my AC page yet?) the AC shuts off
the receiver drier up front has a Hi/low switch if the Freon, goes too  high or low pressure the AC amp brain shuts off the clutch the compressor. saving its bacon.
please post year car so I do not have to read all; posts.   year and engine valve count if asking about just an engine.

see my hVAC page> on AC , huge facts there, and tests.



 questions:
1) Am i on right track that my oil pressure switch is missing, YES.
the 1996 fsm is listed in post  ONE this forum, "MANUALS FREE", and answers that easy.


2nd off..if it is then is it (OIL PRESSURE SENDER)connected to the ECU NO, it is just  wires ,lamp sender like say 1960s  car. (simple as pie)

(I read somewhere that it wasn't connected and that this sensor basically just acts as a switch turning the light on when the oil pressure is dangerously low. I have also ordered some capacitors for my ECU per the information i have learned here)
The silly oil sender is is pressure switch, below 5PSI , lamp glows, and is usually too late no. for 100 years, called an idiot lamp.



Should attempt to replace with an OEM sensor or should i get an aftermarket one?  OEM= OIL?  but the answer is all stores in USA see this. (autoparts)
must be for SUZUKI and THIS car, not some Ford. or DODGE.
As y'all can see..right now if my oil pressure bottoms put then i may not know until too late and thats not good enough ( it works no better than any idiot lamp worked for 100 years, the too late sensor.

Also regarding the threads on this..

i read something about needing an adapter (only if using  real gauge or worse a stinking DODGE sender) 
because of the threading going 28Bsm to 27?? I am almost dreading pulling the old screw out in case PO bored it out.
OMG show photos of the queer screw, words can not ever show damage. only photos. (or real eyeballs)   BSPT
(BSPT is BRITISH STANDARD PIPE TAPER – Thread form per AS 1722.1, BS 21, ISO 7
it is not a true ISO metric thread, NOT AT ALL. (modern, it is a relic of the past from 1960s)
it is not USA inches, called, NPT national pipe thread, as seen in Home depot , pipe isle. ever.
it is very  very alien on this car nothing else on car is so alien, as this, metric is not alien but this is.....




Will fixing the oil pressure switch with OEM switch fix my idiot oil light.. basically is what im asking?  sure !!!!!
well it is just a switch and if oil pressure is good sure a good lamp will work for sure. (gee the cluster provides power to it)
it works no more complex than a flash light.

Also..is there a separate bulb in the cluster for it as well?  (if you look at my cluster page and my cluster schematics all this is clear.)
the Cell lamp is special the ECU has  transistor that must not be overloaded. and that is #18
the other lamps use more current,so run lots of really simple things not limited to weak ECU currents.
you can see that there a huge bank of lamps on say a 4door with 4speed box and with 4wd and more.  all those lamps use more current.
let me now stop and try to figure out what car you have,  IDK.
ok your profile shows.
93 Sidekick JX (2door 3spd trans, (hyramatic) auto-hubs, 4x4 w/ the 8v G16A 1.6 TBI).
you have 4wd lamp and 4wd/hi/low range lamp.
you have oil lamp, blinkers, 2 background park lamps, and high beam lamp , and CEL.
suzuki has like 20 heads use 1992 to 95 even KMH used in Canada. and for all transmisiong variants hell all drive line variates.
the cluster has tachometer and clock speed/odmeter, pure mechanical, that. fuel meter,  overheat meter.
and last a  bevy of lamps all just 2 wires and a connector,  simple as simple can get. this.

we have a schematic, all Suzuki FSM every one does, end to end and even inside the cluster schematic in every book, for this car. (no lie)

up to 12 lamps in the cluster,  2 are just background (park lamps)
all are the same, but CEL
all are twist off /on sockets.
all just take new bulb and stuff it in the empty socket





If so im assuming irs the GE 74 like everything but the CEL? I have to pull cluster to change CEL soon anyways so even tho it may not be burnt out i may replace it anyways just so i know its good before i begin working on the switch.

nah,
the lamps in hand ever one, all you do is connect it to any 12vdc battery and test the lamp. for 100 years we did this 1900 to now. (LED not here)
or use your DMM measure the lamp. if measures short, 0 ohms it is good if infinity it is bad.
if you see lamp has smoky glass bulb it is at end of its life, gee, it is 27 years old how long do they last, well not that long, 1000 hours is spec, on most.
on mine I bought them all new at once. every one.
good for another 27years./?

look here see those black plugs there, (lamp sockets)
see the copper traces and the PCB fibergass board and connector, that is all there is to this. nothing more no electronics at all just copper. (techo is electronics)




and last a schematic of one cluster is there.

see page 2, oil pressure

https://fixkick.com/power-elect/95%20ele...5GAGES.pdf

60AM0 cluster, my guess.
see...
not sure car year 1991 see page 16 here, see that suzuki  in fact shows cluster wiring inside the cluster.

https://fixkick.com/look/91-complete.pdf

10 to 12 lamps, 10 in this case. see clearly there, in a real schematic.

the FSM is sold use, best is 92-95, Trackers, sidekick books are rare now. FSM OEM REAL, is best not some 10 year mixed year books, trash.
as seen here
 https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R4...m&_sacat=0
1992 geo tracker manual oem