1998 tracker 1.9 4x4 clutch will not disengage.

[fixkick]

trans out. checks.
this is near impossible if all looks ok
let me stated that that is a diaphram spring clutch.
testing that is not ever easy or possible. ,NO CRACKS seen no funny bent fingers below.
if the springs overheat or the chutch is china carp and not heat treated correctly those can look ok. but are not.
the Tout bearing pushes those PP spring fingers there, are all fingers sitting on the same level and flat?
let me say this, if it was  mine
a new clutch would be put in,  using $50 cheaper clutch only invites doing 10 more hours of hard labor, nobody wants.

using only top grade non racing clutches here for 16v only 8.5" is think is 16v

use a strong light look for anything on that disk or PP or TOout, for any oddness of any kind,
if it looks OK ,  I think it is bad
the 1 inch rule means 2 man test, no one person can do that, ever one at clutch pedal\
and one at the bottom lever nut (wing nut on mine)
and no slack in the cable just for this test. no free play,  and with no free play , the clutch even goes more disengages.
then when driver pushes pedal (they say pushing now, 1,2,3; 1 means first movement) or have them whistle as their foot starts to move, !!! or
you then see the lever below move no delay it moves 1 to 1 with the drivers foot
and when the foot pedal hits floor the lever below end tip moved 1 fully inch,
if the cars reverse fails now, just now tested that is clutch drag.

the car may have wrong clutch there or just junk grade .
oops forget one more error seen very rare.


that lever on the boot of bell right side. has index marks,  that must be correct or the clutch will be queer and non linear.
lever 11 marks. , parts missing?  23 to 26 anchors?
The disk must not be put on BACKWARDs most good clutches will not let you do that, but some can. and is super  bad that. (disk hub is longer in the rear



see this, see that titty mark it is not for kicks and grins.  and that nut not loose, making one thing it moved a full inch.