02-28-2020, 03:38 AM
(This post was last modified: 02-28-2020, 03:42 AM by 3Waggintails.
Edit Reason: left off info
)
Thanks for the additional information and all of your help! I had to call the shop again late yesterday afternoon and nearly threaten them to get information. I was told the following:
1) they saw two corroded sensors the ones for the coolant temp and the one that tells your cluster temp guage the temp. I knew they were covered in green corrosion but were functioning fine.
2) They said the found a "leak" in the intake manifold. Were not specific.
3) They looked at the old egr (I left in car for themn to see) and said it did not look bad or very dirty at all
4) The were able to reproduce my stutter at idle. Its only a mild hiccup. you can feel it and see it if you look at engine running but not violent at all.
5) Never mentioned the hesitation /surge issue when driving although supposedly drove it 30 minutes.
So, this being said, they are going to clean throttle body, remove intake manifold and clean all passages, etc. Replace all needed gaskets/seals.
All to the tune of $985 (Includes diagnostic time of ???)
So now I see what you just last posted. To answer your questions and to be clear...
1) The car has never stalled and died - inspite of the low idle of 500rpms. Until The prior work was done - egr replaced etc. never a hiccup.
2) when ever the issue occurs, continued pressure on gas pedal and goes or sometimes I may back off pedal and depress again no problem.
3) The issue is not rough for the most part. it just feels sluggish or poor throttle response for a couple seconds, then responds. RPMS not going crazy...speedo may move a litt;e but very minor 2-3 mph difference when it occurs.
I foolishly tried to adjust the idle because of low operating RPMS (500) and was afraid it might die on me. So I turned the black plastic screw on top of the throttle body and messed with that. Thats when I got high idle that would take forever to come down. It would eventually get 750-900 range (visually no guages or monitors attached). Then when you sat stopped for a few seconds drop back down to 500.
I asked them yesterday to PLEASE pull the fuel filter and cheek if more water, mus crap. No response yet. Going to call shortly and Insist and tell what you said about the regulator, fuel lines/injectors. BTW: I had researched so much, already had FPR on my list in in both carts on Ebay and Amazon - which I could get quicker. Is that very hard to replace? Labor intensive?
Also gas cap NEVER left off - locking fuel door - need key. New cap and always turn 3 clicks
Kind of at their mercy but work I cannot do and rather just try and get all fixed!
Please advise any thing else ASAP!
1) they saw two corroded sensors the ones for the coolant temp and the one that tells your cluster temp guage the temp. I knew they were covered in green corrosion but were functioning fine.
2) They said the found a "leak" in the intake manifold. Were not specific.
3) They looked at the old egr (I left in car for themn to see) and said it did not look bad or very dirty at all
4) The were able to reproduce my stutter at idle. Its only a mild hiccup. you can feel it and see it if you look at engine running but not violent at all.
5) Never mentioned the hesitation /surge issue when driving although supposedly drove it 30 minutes.
So, this being said, they are going to clean throttle body, remove intake manifold and clean all passages, etc. Replace all needed gaskets/seals.
All to the tune of $985 (Includes diagnostic time of ???)
So now I see what you just last posted. To answer your questions and to be clear...
1) The car has never stalled and died - inspite of the low idle of 500rpms. Until The prior work was done - egr replaced etc. never a hiccup.
2) when ever the issue occurs, continued pressure on gas pedal and goes or sometimes I may back off pedal and depress again no problem.
3) The issue is not rough for the most part. it just feels sluggish or poor throttle response for a couple seconds, then responds. RPMS not going crazy...speedo may move a litt;e but very minor 2-3 mph difference when it occurs.
I foolishly tried to adjust the idle because of low operating RPMS (500) and was afraid it might die on me. So I turned the black plastic screw on top of the throttle body and messed with that. Thats when I got high idle that would take forever to come down. It would eventually get 750-900 range (visually no guages or monitors attached). Then when you sat stopped for a few seconds drop back down to 500.
I asked them yesterday to PLEASE pull the fuel filter and cheek if more water, mus crap. No response yet. Going to call shortly and Insist and tell what you said about the regulator, fuel lines/injectors. BTW: I had researched so much, already had FPR on my list in in both carts on Ebay and Amazon - which I could get quicker. Is that very hard to replace? Labor intensive?
Also gas cap NEVER left off - locking fuel door - need key. New cap and always turn 3 clicks
Kind of at their mercy but work I cannot do and rather just try and get all fixed!
Please advise any thing else ASAP!