ok so you dont have 2002 Vitara manual>?
what didnt jibe, at mitchells. outside wires, wrong, or those pesky and many times, inside relay wiring shown wrong vast times by suzuki?
my wild guess INSIDE< right as you want to use no stock relays, so that be super good do know and suzuki does not make that easy,
here is classic case of wrong to make my point.
why not post your schematic you dont like?
the old 89 was wrong on main and I see tps wiring wrong on many other official schematics.
https://fixkick.com/INJECTORS/89/89-90schem1.jpg
they did it all wrong. see my red jumper?
what Id do is make sure the coil ohms are not too low on custom relays,
https://fixkick.com/sensors/ohms.pdf
see those rules are good guide line for coil ohms MINIMUM or risk burning up transistors in the PCM
73main and 122 for FP relay.
120 ohms is 100mA. and many transistors are limit to that.
other outputs have bigger transistor, and can do 25ohms. 0.5amps max.
what your PCU can do is not documented. (other than the pages show above (wrong car example)
The outputs on old cars are not protected so you just take great care not to overload outputs OF THE pcM/ECU.
The relays are wired normally open , but i guess that is obvious.
you key on and MAIN closes.
this then sends power to fuel relay input. so if ECU is dead, the FP relay is double dead, by DESIGN and laws.
https://fixkick.com/sensors/ohms.pdf
our J18 1996 is wired like this. Logic
https://fixkick.com/ECU/18L/18LiterECU1.pdf
The pump uses 4 amps of current on ours.
so if you go wild and use 25amp relay or more the coil ohm can be way to low. and burn up the transistor that runs it.
i guess all relays here are rated at 15amps, max. and coils. some sold are 225 ohms, and good.
20amps 100ohms
30 amps 80ohms, this gives you an ideal how amp ratings,change the coil current/ohms.. my guess based on our car, is this is max current relay, here.
one last point
the drop out voltage must not be below 10v or 8v better, so when you crank a engine and the battery is weak, you still get fuel and spark
no 2 relays made do that same voltage, and is very important on cards, 8v to 15vdc range usage. (and cold weather caused)
case in point , mouser.com that shows full spec, unlike suzuki nor car stores
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-...xR4ff5g%3D
the drop out is 7.2v and good. 119 ohms too. (in the data sheet ,not brief page)
the COD version of this relay has the coil protect diode, in not buy relay lacking such a diode, as we do not know if you 2002 PCM has one inside, hidden and if missing the BACK EFM blows the transistor to hell and gone.,
if you guess at relays things blow up, for sure missing diode and for sure too low ohms on the coil boom bad PCM . here is a real data sheet. maker is TOP class maker TE Connectivity / P&B (they own potter-brumfield.)
https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/418/N...844135.pdf
what didnt jibe, at mitchells. outside wires, wrong, or those pesky and many times, inside relay wiring shown wrong vast times by suzuki?
my wild guess INSIDE< right as you want to use no stock relays, so that be super good do know and suzuki does not make that easy,
here is classic case of wrong to make my point.
why not post your schematic you dont like?
the old 89 was wrong on main and I see tps wiring wrong on many other official schematics.
https://fixkick.com/INJECTORS/89/89-90schem1.jpg
they did it all wrong. see my red jumper?
what Id do is make sure the coil ohms are not too low on custom relays,
https://fixkick.com/sensors/ohms.pdf
see those rules are good guide line for coil ohms MINIMUM or risk burning up transistors in the PCM
73main and 122 for FP relay.
120 ohms is 100mA. and many transistors are limit to that.
other outputs have bigger transistor, and can do 25ohms. 0.5amps max.
what your PCU can do is not documented. (other than the pages show above (wrong car example)
The outputs on old cars are not protected so you just take great care not to overload outputs OF THE pcM/ECU.
The relays are wired normally open , but i guess that is obvious.
you key on and MAIN closes.
this then sends power to fuel relay input. so if ECU is dead, the FP relay is double dead, by DESIGN and laws.
https://fixkick.com/sensors/ohms.pdf
our J18 1996 is wired like this. Logic
https://fixkick.com/ECU/18L/18LiterECU1.pdf
The pump uses 4 amps of current on ours.
so if you go wild and use 25amp relay or more the coil ohm can be way to low. and burn up the transistor that runs it.
i guess all relays here are rated at 15amps, max. and coils. some sold are 225 ohms, and good.
20amps 100ohms
30 amps 80ohms, this gives you an ideal how amp ratings,change the coil current/ohms.. my guess based on our car, is this is max current relay, here.
one last point
the drop out voltage must not be below 10v or 8v better, so when you crank a engine and the battery is weak, you still get fuel and spark
no 2 relays made do that same voltage, and is very important on cards, 8v to 15vdc range usage. (and cold weather caused)
case in point , mouser.com that shows full spec, unlike suzuki nor car stores
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-...xR4ff5g%3D
the drop out is 7.2v and good. 119 ohms too. (in the data sheet ,not brief page)
the COD version of this relay has the coil protect diode, in not buy relay lacking such a diode, as we do not know if you 2002 PCM has one inside, hidden and if missing the BACK EFM blows the transistor to hell and gone.,
if you guess at relays things blow up, for sure missing diode and for sure too low ohms on the coil boom bad PCM . here is a real data sheet. maker is TOP class maker TE Connectivity / P&B (they own potter-brumfield.)
https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/418/N...844135.pdf
http://www.fixkick.com