keep in mind the manual was printed 2 decades ago....
you only have 2 choices, new synchros.
or try different lube. (some GL5 is safe for yellow metal , not all but some (yellow/brass) The old lubes GL5 has EP rating and to do that the additive in GL5 eats yellow metal, but some today do not. but only reading full spec lube can answer that or ask maker)
the bearings in the box will be happy with any GL lube, that is for sure. the car does not pull 5000lb loads, like a 1 ton Chevy truck can.
the only thing you want to think about are the synchro rings, the inside of said ring
see this see those groves, those bite in to polished cones. (on the base sliding dogs)
if the oil is too slipper or too tin on a worn right then it slips or becomes super slow to match RPM speeds,(its job is that)
see? a box this old can have those grooves now thin (or worse ring cracked) and then if worn likes only some GL4 lube , 85w sounds better. no?
you only have 2 choices, new synchros.
or try different lube. (some GL5 is safe for yellow metal , not all but some (yellow/brass) The old lubes GL5 has EP rating and to do that the additive in GL5 eats yellow metal, but some today do not. but only reading full spec lube can answer that or ask maker)
the bearings in the box will be happy with any GL lube, that is for sure. the car does not pull 5000lb loads, like a 1 ton Chevy truck can.
the only thing you want to think about are the synchro rings, the inside of said ring
see this see those groves, those bite in to polished cones. (on the base sliding dogs)
if the oil is too slipper or too tin on a worn right then it slips or becomes super slow to match RPM speeds,(its job is that)
see? a box this old can have those grooves now thin (or worse ring cracked) and then if worn likes only some GL4 lube , 85w sounds better. no?
http://www.fixkick.com