01-02-2019, 09:12 PM
(12-16-2018, 01:30 AM)fixkick Wrote: keep in mind i have not seen the see your PRNDL hack
no country codes. on car, (vin or?)
all i know is what is in these text boxes, blind.
the car when new and PRNLD working (aka park lockout)
when you crank the engine the ECU sees that, and uses a special set of rules for cranking (start pin on PCM)
the PCM also knows where the shifter is selected.
if in park one idle profile is used
then when D,L,R is selected the TC clutch puts a huge load on the engine (stall speed RPM is 2000 rpm and hints at such a load with brakes on)
that PCM then uses special set of idle controls for all that, cold , and hot engine.
its not simple at all but fooling the PCM is always a bad idea, unless done perfectly.
this car PCM has 6 rangeswitch inputs from A/T PRNDL switch. and PCM A3 is the start pin , and 4wd pin so that OD is defeated in 4wd i think....
usually the scanning of the PCM will set range switch errors. got those yet? P1717 ( P1 are factory codes some scan tools cant read P1 errors) P17xx and P07xx are all transmission errors. x = wild card.
your USA 98 ECU p/n is 78E50 (E70 for calif) 97- 78ek0 (usa)
Going into the holidays I was pulled away from doing anything more on this vehicle till New Years Day,
I pulled out the 'obnoxious and soon to find out, irrelevant' push button start and removed the separate + battery cable running directly to the starter.
I pulled the piggyback fuse from the Right headlight circuit, hooked back up the original + battery cable to the battery post and to the starter.
I then soldered and shrink wrapped the Black/Yellow cable to the spade bit on the starter.
Felt it was best to put things back to where they belong to get a good base to start from to remove stupid stuff.
She crank started no problem with the key, No Idea why they wired this thing up this way, I did notice that 'sometimes' you had to fiddle with the gearshift in park to get it to crank and it will not crank in Neutral, and I have no backup lights but this is progress.
She still won't idle but I needed to take 'baby steps' to figure out the wiring mess. Still don't know why it was done but it appears to be because of the intermittent Park/crank.
I don't have a compression tester so I will need to find a decent low cost one as that still needs to be done. It needs a rear main seal and I'll be degreasing everything underneath for a long time to come.
I need to pick up some MAF cleaner and finish getting the TPS adjusted so lots of work still to do.
It still amazes me how solid this vehicle is even after 20 years. The only rusty place is the metal behind the left rear bumper support, The bumper 'flaps' a little so I have some welding to do. The floors are solid with no rust, the rockers are in good shape. I need to steam clean the heck out of the interior and it needs new carpet but the black carpet from my old Sport I scrapped will work perfectly as it's in great shape.