OK,
I must be a complete xxxxx or cannot understand your instructions, nor the FSM instructions so I am going to lay it out and you can show me just how much of an idiot I am.
THE FSM diagram says test for TPS voltage at the ECM, giving an ECU at E33 17. ( this is SUZUKI's sick idea that getting to the ECU is easier than standing from of car hood up at TPS is hard (some daft engineer dreamed that up?) IDK
But your instructions state to use meter at the TOP itself backprobing the wire. (with needle probes) (Yours makes much more sense)
Gee I hope so unless pulling out front drivers seat is fun and laying in snow slush on foot wells and trying to get to the ECU jack is fun.?
Connect the DMM volt meter to ground , TB casing, and the red lead to the TP pin, via back probing of the TPS connector .
The water temp activated IAC must be retracked fist the IAC must retracted or this calibration is useless. i posted a photo of the IAC able, did you see that?
Keep in mind 2 things,
1: all TPS made with actual pigtails (8v) have no color code, each maker is different, (like O2 sensors are)
2: the wiring harness , we reference is for USA cars only, learn that other countries, dictate other rules on colors, for example EU or Canada cars.
3: i do not have 1998 books only 96/97. but alldata.has it and the far better mitchells does too.
best is meter to TP angle pin meter red, and black lead to TPS ground pin.
Well On the TPS connector there are 3 wires
Gray with red tracer - firewall side ( this pin should be +5vdc (refr) at all times key on, this is power from the ECU a precision 5vdc +-0.25v)
Gray with blue tracer - Center (this is the throttle angle pin put meter red test lead here and set TPS to 0.5vdc make sure the IAC is not holding the THROTTLE open (the water powered IAC must be retraced first , so hot engine does that)
Gray with yellow tracer - Radiator side (this is ground put your meter neg black lead here.)
SO, 'Gray with red tracer" is what you mean by your instructions. I now Im being extremely literal but just to be sure when I get to that.
96 drawing is here. but ecu has totally different pins is 1997 and 1998 due to moviing the TCM brain inside the ECU and renaming it PCM, so only 1998 books are correct ok?
here is 97 that I do have. see the TPS> see the pin numbers not the same and the colors are for USA 97
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/18L/18LiterECU1.pdf
Haven't begun the adjustment yet. I've decided that I need to get back to 'level' by fixing that stupid switch problem because
as you stated,
KEEP in MIND at all times, IDLE controls are the last thing to work, right, all else must be correct first, imagine gross misfiring engine and the PCM can not raise idle or is out of control.
---
The A/T hacked on your car can in fact cause ECU to go nuts.
the ECU (PCM) monitors 2 wires (of the many)
1: THE START LINE (STARTER ACTIVE.) most go 0v after release key, at ECU actual input pin.
2: THE A/T BOX "PRNDL" SWITCH STATE, (my guess is this was only hacked, but IDK.)
IF ANY OF THOSE ARE WRONG , THE ECU WILL FAIL TO IDLE OR EVEN START CORRECTLY
---
Without this being right, I'm just 'flailing' so that is where i am at, working that mess out first.
Part of me wants to find the 'rocket scientist' that decided that a switch like this was the answer and punch him in the nose.. Won't solve the problem, but it will make me feel a little better. YES ! hacks are manytimes , make it worse
this must be retracted to do TPS calibration, it is mounted to the TB and when cold opens the TV valve open for cold faster idle and easier starts.
![[Image: Sport-IAC.jpg]](http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/Sport-IAC.jpg)
I must be a complete xxxxx or cannot understand your instructions, nor the FSM instructions so I am going to lay it out and you can show me just how much of an idiot I am.
THE FSM diagram says test for TPS voltage at the ECM, giving an ECU at E33 17. ( this is SUZUKI's sick idea that getting to the ECU is easier than standing from of car hood up at TPS is hard (some daft engineer dreamed that up?) IDK
But your instructions state to use meter at the TOP itself backprobing the wire. (with needle probes) (Yours makes much more sense)
Gee I hope so unless pulling out front drivers seat is fun and laying in snow slush on foot wells and trying to get to the ECU jack is fun.?
Connect the DMM volt meter to ground , TB casing, and the red lead to the TP pin, via back probing of the TPS connector .
The water temp activated IAC must be retracked fist the IAC must retracted or this calibration is useless. i posted a photo of the IAC able, did you see that?
Keep in mind 2 things,
1: all TPS made with actual pigtails (8v) have no color code, each maker is different, (like O2 sensors are)
2: the wiring harness , we reference is for USA cars only, learn that other countries, dictate other rules on colors, for example EU or Canada cars.
3: i do not have 1998 books only 96/97. but alldata.has it and the far better mitchells does too.
best is meter to TP angle pin meter red, and black lead to TPS ground pin.
Well On the TPS connector there are 3 wires
Gray with red tracer - firewall side ( this pin should be +5vdc (refr) at all times key on, this is power from the ECU a precision 5vdc +-0.25v)
Gray with blue tracer - Center (this is the throttle angle pin put meter red test lead here and set TPS to 0.5vdc make sure the IAC is not holding the THROTTLE open (the water powered IAC must be retraced first , so hot engine does that)
Gray with yellow tracer - Radiator side (this is ground put your meter neg black lead here.)
SO, 'Gray with red tracer" is what you mean by your instructions. I now Im being extremely literal but just to be sure when I get to that.
96 drawing is here. but ecu has totally different pins is 1997 and 1998 due to moviing the TCM brain inside the ECU and renaming it PCM, so only 1998 books are correct ok?
here is 97 that I do have. see the TPS> see the pin numbers not the same and the colors are for USA 97
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/18L/18LiterECU1.pdf
Haven't begun the adjustment yet. I've decided that I need to get back to 'level' by fixing that stupid switch problem because
as you stated,
KEEP in MIND at all times, IDLE controls are the last thing to work, right, all else must be correct first, imagine gross misfiring engine and the PCM can not raise idle or is out of control.
---
The A/T hacked on your car can in fact cause ECU to go nuts.
the ECU (PCM) monitors 2 wires (of the many)
1: THE START LINE (STARTER ACTIVE.) most go 0v after release key, at ECU actual input pin.
2: THE A/T BOX "PRNDL" SWITCH STATE, (my guess is this was only hacked, but IDK.)
IF ANY OF THOSE ARE WRONG , THE ECU WILL FAIL TO IDLE OR EVEN START CORRECTLY
---
Without this being right, I'm just 'flailing' so that is where i am at, working that mess out first.
Part of me wants to find the 'rocket scientist' that decided that a switch like this was the answer and punch him in the nose.. Won't solve the problem, but it will make me feel a little better. YES ! hacks are manytimes , make it worse
this must be retracted to do TPS calibration, it is mounted to the TB and when cold opens the TV valve open for cold faster idle and easier starts.