how does it run now? power wise? and idle speeds hot. or still stalling?
does engine warm up and reach 180F to 200F , and hold there,? (many thermostats sold at 4 different temps so...) it must hold once warm.
the 122 is TPS not calibrated to 0.5vdc, (guess, last person set it zero volts DC, that be wrong 122 means too low at key on )
301, is #1 is misfiring badly. (spark bad, injector bad, compression way too low, etc) #1 swap COP 1 for COP2, if 302 now the COP is bad. or its cheap boot.
I do compression tests on any car first. at WOT, wide open throttle spark plugs out. 199 PSI warm or hot, J20 does that, J18 too I think (sealevel)
defeat spark or fueling to do the test. > (unplug 1.8L or larger engines, 4 COP connectors , J18, j20 or v6's) or pull the fuel pump relay.
the chain drive cam , if the chain is loose will generate random P030x codes, x = 0 to 4.
when all is perfect we can worry idle speeds last,, the TB has old start valve, in the arm there on the TB this device, open the throttle cold.
This device (coolant controlled) can stick closed or open and is so easy to see.
http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/Sport-IAC.jpg
there are 2 IAC (the above and the electric IAC you just changed, make sure the above IAC retracts . first.\
the next screw might be messed up here, idle duty cycle setting screw. some one may have played here.
http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/18L-ldle-screw.jpg
1: engine compression ok (done warm , all sparks out, WOT, wide open throttle( near open just block it open or hold foot on throttle so air can flow)
2: vacuum near 20 inches and steady hot idle.
3: spark plugs new? .028" gasped.
4: COP boots this old never work we change them out , cheap fix , the rubber boots, carbon tracked , spark fails., and cause spark misfiring.
5:isc , and egr valves cleaned, (ISC bolted to TB) the thermal iAC above, must work hot and cold it retracts hot.
6: engine warms up and reaches 180F or more. and holds. if not and water temps never cross the 150F line the EFI will inject wrong, like that endless.
7: idle rpm 800 hot, accessories off, on dash , no AC on for sure.
8: listen for bad cam CHAIN? IF BAD misfire codes go on forever.
9: now how does it drive now, all symptoms, needed to diagnose and all DTC errors doing so.
also some DTC codes need 2 or more key ON runs to set a DTC code, ( best is 2 driving cycles, or 3) for all codes to run.
these are called Monitors. and some do not run unless driven or at least 2 driving cycles, and full warm up cycles are completed.
also some DTCs codes do not get run until primary codes are cured first. (like the CAT tests and EGR tests are suspended unit primaries are cured)
122 is a primary code, (for sure idle will never work until this primary failures is cured)
this puts ECU also in to limphom mode. as the big books says fix all lower codes first. is well advised.
THe TPS reads 0vdc on its output pin, so the ECU suspends all idle controls and then goes to limphome mode. (aka, failsafe or just LIMP)
also with that dead, pin, the ECU also fails to run test that are for idle only.
fix 122 first
that is it for now, hope my list helps, this is the basics list, drive-ability is way more checks.
cheers
PS, the j18 DOHC, is very close to the J20 (era, not newer J20) engine, most parts on it swap, (base engine parts not most EFI parts)
some guys even put in J20 and was happy to run , under J18 ECU.96-98
bad gas< ? i car parked for over a year 1/8th full, not run daily ,bad gas tops the list as do clogged injectors (partial.?) and fuel filter packed full of crap.
the DTC test only fun fully with more than 1/4 tank of fresh fuel, (even P0300)
the DTC errors are like peeling and Onion the outer layer is first.
does engine warm up and reach 180F to 200F , and hold there,? (many thermostats sold at 4 different temps so...) it must hold once warm.
the 122 is TPS not calibrated to 0.5vdc, (guess, last person set it zero volts DC, that be wrong 122 means too low at key on )
301, is #1 is misfiring badly. (spark bad, injector bad, compression way too low, etc) #1 swap COP 1 for COP2, if 302 now the COP is bad. or its cheap boot.
I do compression tests on any car first. at WOT, wide open throttle spark plugs out. 199 PSI warm or hot, J20 does that, J18 too I think (sealevel)
defeat spark or fueling to do the test. > (unplug 1.8L or larger engines, 4 COP connectors , J18, j20 or v6's) or pull the fuel pump relay.
the chain drive cam , if the chain is loose will generate random P030x codes, x = 0 to 4.
when all is perfect we can worry idle speeds last,, the TB has old start valve, in the arm there on the TB this device, open the throttle cold.
This device (coolant controlled) can stick closed or open and is so easy to see.
http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/Sport-IAC.jpg
there are 2 IAC (the above and the electric IAC you just changed, make sure the above IAC retracts . first.\
the next screw might be messed up here, idle duty cycle setting screw. some one may have played here.
http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/18L-ldle-screw.jpg
1: engine compression ok (done warm , all sparks out, WOT, wide open throttle( near open just block it open or hold foot on throttle so air can flow)
2: vacuum near 20 inches and steady hot idle.
3: spark plugs new? .028" gasped.
4: COP boots this old never work we change them out , cheap fix , the rubber boots, carbon tracked , spark fails., and cause spark misfiring.
5:isc , and egr valves cleaned, (ISC bolted to TB) the thermal iAC above, must work hot and cold it retracts hot.
6: engine warms up and reaches 180F or more. and holds. if not and water temps never cross the 150F line the EFI will inject wrong, like that endless.
7: idle rpm 800 hot, accessories off, on dash , no AC on for sure.
8: listen for bad cam CHAIN? IF BAD misfire codes go on forever.
9: now how does it drive now, all symptoms, needed to diagnose and all DTC errors doing so.
also some DTC codes need 2 or more key ON runs to set a DTC code, ( best is 2 driving cycles, or 3) for all codes to run.
these are called Monitors. and some do not run unless driven or at least 2 driving cycles, and full warm up cycles are completed.
also some DTCs codes do not get run until primary codes are cured first. (like the CAT tests and EGR tests are suspended unit primaries are cured)
122 is a primary code, (for sure idle will never work until this primary failures is cured)
this puts ECU also in to limphom mode. as the big books says fix all lower codes first. is well advised.
THe TPS reads 0vdc on its output pin, so the ECU suspends all idle controls and then goes to limphome mode. (aka, failsafe or just LIMP)
also with that dead, pin, the ECU also fails to run test that are for idle only.
fix 122 first
that is it for now, hope my list helps, this is the basics list, drive-ability is way more checks.
cheers
PS, the j18 DOHC, is very close to the J20 (era, not newer J20) engine, most parts on it swap, (base engine parts not most EFI parts)
some guys even put in J20 and was happy to run , under J18 ECU.96-98
bad gas< ? i car parked for over a year 1/8th full, not run daily ,bad gas tops the list as do clogged injectors (partial.?) and fuel filter packed full of crap.
the DTC test only fun fully with more than 1/4 tank of fresh fuel, (even P0300)
the DTC errors are like peeling and Onion the outer layer is first.
http://www.fixkick.com