Nice car, even better photo ,wow,, thanks for sharing, and welcome./
The PCM (ecu) is not AI, it is just crude, cheap small ,slow, limited micro controller.
It only knows, 2 things on the MAF< dead totally, 0v or very low voltage out, or stuck at 5-12 vdc, stuck at max.
if its dirty the output will be weak and power low, and the PCU will not tell you that ever. (unless newer Car from USA 1996 (lean codes)
your PCM is OBD1, = dumb as a brick, by todays standards.
when you get code 34 that is LIMPHOME< after all the car would not run at all with ANY dead MAF ever.
that is fact and limphome is horrible in 1989-1995 (USA laws and spec'd cars)
it goes super rich, trying hard emulatate dead mAF, (It used, RPM and TPS throttle angles to do that ) so crude its sad.
the spark advance is dead, or limited.
idle controls can end.
the engine will want to flood.
try to think this way, my engine should not run at all now, how lucky it is for me i can drive to any autoshop now, and they fix it ,saving a $300 + tow bill.
that is what limp home means. (limp to shop is better term for 99% of most car owners)
No the TPS is the worst OBD1 monitor of all, only (just like the MAF) it tells you its unplugged, dead, or wires cut to hit (0v and 5vdc or more, it warns, and if the idle switch fails)
This ECU is only (X (or some sensor)is dead, right now, the ECU learns this and stores codes, errors.or DTCs as those are called)
Not even close tomy new jeep, it has what jeep calls Incongruous reading errors.
eg. it see maf reading too low, based on TPS /RPM air flow predictions, and flags you with that code, (weak maf) so you clean the maf and it is ok now.
that answers your other question on TPS, (your old car has no predictive modeling software inside, it is dumb ECU/PCM)
step one clean the maf (or inspections are first)
it the output is dead, (34 means dead ) then it will not work cleaned, but gee Id measure it with DMM and look inside the MAF see if there is birds nest inside.
critter nets. of ANY KIND, seen holes in the air box so say mud dobber nest there? (and hornet of sorts)
best is to look first, no wonder what is bad, Inspections are always first.
one guy had this so called , cold air kit there and the maf and cone filter(junk) let the maf bounce up and down an bet it self to death, sure looking is first.
BTW the call that cold air but is hot air. they lie and sell millions of these to kids.
I have the readings here.
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/92-95MAF/...sting.html
keep an open mind
we open the hood
and the last guy connected after market (XYZ) and stole the power wire to the MAF, this will make the MAF 100% dead. .
wires to it damaged from 26years of poor service or hackers doing there thing.(or bad luck)
also the maf
on this side is a Mitsubishi sticker, if missing this, then that is clone maf and most are junk.(china imported cloned , knockoff junk) ok found a real OEM MAF photo next.
(if forget if denso or Mitsubishi made. 10 years ago seen)
make sure 12vdc makes it to the MAF pin per pages linked here, or your new MAF WILL BE DEAD. this is the first metered check !!!!
id get mine here, CARDONE (the do not sell direct only special ordered in autostores)
http://www.cardone.com/Products/Product-...=1995&info=
this is a REFURB.
suzuki here state side, sells this for $1200, uSD. id bet they sell non a that price. (2 times what i paid for my car used)
here is my buy parts page, here is the 58B00 MAF.used on all USA cars this gen.
http://fixkick.com/buy-parts.html#MAF16
here is one of the best places to buy sidekick parts. the rock
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/suzu...ensor,5128
see my schematic see the 3 pin maf and now it is wired, (colors)
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/92-95MPI-eng-...e-huge.png
the page I made has many annotations in red,see that? should make fixing any car like this (engine EFI) more easy.
The PCM (ecu) is not AI, it is just crude, cheap small ,slow, limited micro controller.
It only knows, 2 things on the MAF< dead totally, 0v or very low voltage out, or stuck at 5-12 vdc, stuck at max.
if its dirty the output will be weak and power low, and the PCU will not tell you that ever. (unless newer Car from USA 1996 (lean codes)
your PCM is OBD1, = dumb as a brick, by todays standards.
when you get code 34 that is LIMPHOME< after all the car would not run at all with ANY dead MAF ever.
that is fact and limphome is horrible in 1989-1995 (USA laws and spec'd cars)
it goes super rich, trying hard emulatate dead mAF, (It used, RPM and TPS throttle angles to do that ) so crude its sad.
the spark advance is dead, or limited.
idle controls can end.
the engine will want to flood.
try to think this way, my engine should not run at all now, how lucky it is for me i can drive to any autoshop now, and they fix it ,saving a $300 + tow bill.
that is what limp home means. (limp to shop is better term for 99% of most car owners)
No the TPS is the worst OBD1 monitor of all, only (just like the MAF) it tells you its unplugged, dead, or wires cut to hit (0v and 5vdc or more, it warns, and if the idle switch fails)
This ECU is only (X (or some sensor)is dead, right now, the ECU learns this and stores codes, errors.or DTCs as those are called)
Not even close tomy new jeep, it has what jeep calls Incongruous reading errors.
eg. it see maf reading too low, based on TPS /RPM air flow predictions, and flags you with that code, (weak maf) so you clean the maf and it is ok now.
that answers your other question on TPS, (your old car has no predictive modeling software inside, it is dumb ECU/PCM)
step one clean the maf (or inspections are first)
it the output is dead, (34 means dead ) then it will not work cleaned, but gee Id measure it with DMM and look inside the MAF see if there is birds nest inside.
critter nets. of ANY KIND, seen holes in the air box so say mud dobber nest there? (and hornet of sorts)
best is to look first, no wonder what is bad, Inspections are always first.
one guy had this so called , cold air kit there and the maf and cone filter(junk) let the maf bounce up and down an bet it self to death, sure looking is first.
BTW the call that cold air but is hot air. they lie and sell millions of these to kids.
I have the readings here.
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/92-95MAF/...sting.html
keep an open mind
we open the hood
and the last guy connected after market (XYZ) and stole the power wire to the MAF, this will make the MAF 100% dead. .
wires to it damaged from 26years of poor service or hackers doing there thing.(or bad luck)
also the maf
on this side is a Mitsubishi sticker, if missing this, then that is clone maf and most are junk.(china imported cloned , knockoff junk) ok found a real OEM MAF photo next.
(if forget if denso or Mitsubishi made. 10 years ago seen)
make sure 12vdc makes it to the MAF pin per pages linked here, or your new MAF WILL BE DEAD. this is the first metered check !!!!
id get mine here, CARDONE (the do not sell direct only special ordered in autostores)
http://www.cardone.com/Products/Product-...=1995&info=
this is a REFURB.
suzuki here state side, sells this for $1200, uSD. id bet they sell non a that price. (2 times what i paid for my car used)
here is my buy parts page, here is the 58B00 MAF.used on all USA cars this gen.
http://fixkick.com/buy-parts.html#MAF16
here is one of the best places to buy sidekick parts. the rock
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/suzu...ensor,5128
see my schematic see the 3 pin maf and now it is wired, (colors)
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/92-95MPI-eng-...e-huge.png
the page I made has many annotations in red,see that? should make fixing any car like this (engine EFI) more easy.
http://www.fixkick.com