1999 Chevrolet Tracker Wheel Hub

[wtv]

I have a 1999 Chevrolet Tracker 2DR 2.0 2wd. I was getting the front tires replaced and one of the wheel studs is spinning with the lug nut on it and they couldn't remove that wheel.

I'm planning on working on removing that stud and lug nut but am worried that I will need a whole new wheel hub instead of just a wheel stud (planning for the worse). When looking for a replacement wheel hub I couldn't find one. No one seems to make them for a 99.

I noticed that I could get one for a 2001 but was wondering if anything is different? It appears the wheel bearings and seals are the same part #'s for both years, as are the spindles. The bolt patterns appear identical as well along with the ABS sensor #'s. The only real thing I can think of is because the 01 appear to be a full assembly with bearings and all.

Does anyone have any experience or know of any issues with using a 01 hub on a 99 before I try it out?


Thanks!

[fetcher]

I see your problem. I could not find it on rock auto to see what it looks like. I have no experience with that exact item, but I just changed a spinning
lug nut on my tractor (and I once fixed a Japanese transmission )
   
I would try to clamp it good from the back with vise grips and impact it out. In my case I could not get a good grip so I had to cut flat sides with a dremel in order to get a good grip. Have you had any issues with that stud before? I ask because it's not beyond possibility that if a careless tire installer cross threaded your lug nut he could then slam it with the impact gun and claim your stud bolt was spinning. On old spinning ones, a new stud usually works. Ebay has an OEM hub listed as item item number:162415020624.

[fixkick]

the correct part is. 99 , at suzuki, see GM number far below.
SUZ, Part Number: 4342051860


that stud if snapped, would not stop wheel off
so if not stripped at stud to bolt juncture (look) the its stripped in the actual hub pressed in point, making the hub useless (IMO)
i guess your car has ABS, and matters big time here.

OP, G16 or J20 engine? GM shows same p/n for cars...

the problem here is what did they GM (GEO) put there new. ? or better, what's there now.


unified hubs started in 2001 (SUZ)
i bet it dont fit. for sure p/n are all different and ABS is a big problem.

2001+
Suzuki P/N is # 43401-65D00 (non/abs) or 65D10 suffix for ABS vehicles.


http://www.fixkick.com/hubs/FW_BEARINGS.html#newer


other tricks, that can work.
when looking up parts on newer Trackers
pick not GEO but Chevrolet Tracker, to find parts,

you also have the huge problem of the funny GM wheel bearing hub locks there. (ended in 2001)
the unified hubs, fit unified spindles only



here is the part. ID 1;
99 G16 Vitara.
https://www.suzukicarparts.com/parts/199...CallOut=11


see parts 6 and 7, GM used differnt ,lock nuts there and funny tool to get in on and to get it back at 123 ft/lbs min. preload, (crush bearings they are, not like a boat trailer, at all)


see my page yet
old old page i made long ago.

http://www.fixkick.com/hubs/FW_BEARINGS.html




the gm link is there, but is under chevy no more GEO there. its chevy tracker.

http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/auto-parts/...embly-scat

and says not in stock
911-74733 (L/R)

1998 hub is
911-73635
is not the same.


finding aftermarket parts for suzuki can be impossible.
me guess, gets worse in time.
find one at a wrecker?



the problem is part 1 and 13 must match too. (no mixing , i bet)
in 2001 to 2005 all these parts changed, then again in 2006


http://www.fixkick.com/hubs/no-crush.JPG

[fetcher]

If the hub itself is damaged and you really can't find the correct replacement hub or if it turns out to be prohibitively costly to obtain, I think you can use a stud that is a bit thicker and live with one slightly different lug nut. If you are I psycho like me, carefully grind down the thicker stud and cut the correct
threads with a die.

[fixkick]

If the hub itself is damaged and you really can't find the correct replacement hub or if it turns out to be prohibitively costly to obtain, I think you can use a stud that is a bit thicker and live with one slightly different lug nut. If you are I psycho like me, carefully grind down the thicker stud and cut the correct
threads with a die.

i cant see the damage so cant say.
but then again, I didnt mike, it
the hole must undamaged, the new stud must be pressed in with a huge press.
his is not nut strip
his is not stud snap
it's the hub stripped out , means huge damage there. Im sure the owner will tell later, after wheel is off. (there is no limits to damage in the real world only looking matters and mick'ing it. (calipers gauge)


but down south they have cars with 5 studs, and all 4 wheels are missing one NUT, seen 10,000 like that in south america
reason is they keep the 4 as spares, as they are so hard to find there. (nuts) even most taxi cab there like that.
so , 4s cool there.

spec, is this, so M14s is next size up.
M12-1.25 Serrated Wheel Stud; 12.45mm Knurl; 37.5mm Length

doing it wrong, and it next tire store from H3LL its it with 200ft/lbs it strips again and wheel stuck on,
I always tell them they must hand torque them after using 50lbs first. or i WALK
some states this is now law, (after killing drivers,) many cars if you over torque it the brake rotors warp and guess what, dead drivers, or worse.
when they lock up.

lucky for us this dont happen with our hubs

[fetcher]

I have had that problem both ways after leaving the tire guys.
A huge wobble about one mile down the road, and then some lug nuts
that could not be removed without completely mangling them.

As far as the hub problem is concerned, I would even use an SAE
stud if it fit best. Really have to wait till he removes the spinning one to
know for sure.

[fixkick]

the highest torque of a racing stud seen m12
by APR and others was 132lbs
i use anti-seize in very tiny amounts, to just the center of the thread.
then look up the spec. i the SM.
and if i'ts 80 to 100lbs. i use 80 (the good book shows a range always)
with the anti-sieze the tension will be more 25%?. (done so since 1970 when i first saw it in a boiler room,) never once a problems
same with others.

it is true that the studs have much higher rating that stated,
they are grossly over designed, to save lives.
and finally what is more consistent the lubed clean tread. (no excess landing on the wheel recessed cones.
or galled, rusted mangled treads.

the down side is using alum, wheels
then using lots of anti-seize compound.
then going why over 132ft/lbs and omg, easy with impact guns, but then some pro tools are super accurate but most DIY not)

it is also known that the anti-seize reduces random loading variances from 22 % to near 3%
its just more consistent.
but with studs, the nut inside head against the wheel hole cone is a huge factor in torque. ( no oil allowed here)

keep in mind real usage (I like this part) Uncertainty.
Jane and the 12" car wrench, in the side hatch of car. toy grade for rice ville.
pops and the 3foot beaker bar. and hell come high water.... power.
and the $19 harbor Fright, impact gun?
and last a real nice Sears $100 1/2" drive torque wrench(me , grin)
the studs are designed to be happy in all the above,. so it seams , 300lbs torque , no, and galling no.

[fixkick]

i never let them touch my lugs, ever
i take the tires to them wheels and all and say bla bla.

same and the TPMS sensor if bad they hold my wheels hostage, till i pay $600 , no they dont, i keep 4 spare here all the time.

some shops set the tight so only they can get them off, EVIL.
or love to break them studs taking them off and $100 to fix them all times that number they snap for fun.
they dont ever touch mine,

i use the other car to deliver tires /wheels to the tire store,