clutch safety switch 96 jlx sport

[sidekicker]

Howdy
The safety switch on my sidekick was only working intermittently which meant I had to push start often. I just diagnosed the problem recently, so bought a new switch at Napa. The no start problem seemed to be solved, but now my cruise control is not working. I figured out that if you ride the clutch the c/c works, but when you let off it kicks out. I thought that perhaps I had crossed wires on the switch, switched them around and same problem.
The original switch had the connector built in, all the after market one's have 2 lead wires coming off the back to connector.
Do you think I just got a bad switch or is this the typical ( parts look similar but are not interchangeable syndrome). I noticed the part was made in Japan which gave me hope it would work in my JLX.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Any way to rebuild old switch?
Thanks Fixkick, you have saved my butt many times with all your vast wisdom.
Eddy

[fixkick]

sport, 96 J18 engine sport, not the 96, G16 car? they are different. (some G16s have bodies in some countries, Canada? with word sport on side, and is not a real sport)
for sure stick shifted, M/t.
my guess a no crank engine failures, (full time or intermittent)
safety?
you mean the clutch switch above it pedal sure. ...
its not polarized at all, and can be bypassed. but not a good idea cruise. feature to bypass anything.
cruise need clutch and brake switch to be safe. it has both, so both switches, clutch and brake are dual.

first off after market switches come on 2 types. real OEM spec switch and GENERIC< that dont work.
you bought generic.
OEM parts fit and work,
wish I know all symptoms.
the word japan buys nothing,
Generics switches come on 2 forms, NO, and NC, normal open , or normally closed.
sure a generic can work hand wired in, but must be correct type..

first I will review G16, 96
the start line on the ignition switch
see here on my schematics page
shows blk-red goes to clutch sw.
the switch is normally open (foot off the pedal )
then driver depresses (its calibrated , see FSM for how)
then the switch closes, and shorts. allowing starter key line to go active out of the
switch. blk-yellow wire.

the car fitted with cruise, has a dual clutch switch
4 wire, id you miss that key fact on the old switch, and socket there?
the 2nd switch works the same way as the cranking key line
but is pins 1 and2 this time. blue wires. and does NOT use the cranks signal at all for cruise,
see page 8 here
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/1996/Full96%2...-power.pdf

this page only shows the 2nd half of switch. note the different wire colors (blue)and pin numbers.
and both are calibrated at once, not just thrown in.
the FSM on the G16 is free ask.
what's cool on the above drawing, it covers both engines, nice.

recap
its 4 wires
2 switches
it must be calibrated
all ive seen have a nut on the top that moves and allows you to set the switch calibration.
if set (adjusted )wrong the switch can fail.

they uses dual switches for a reason
so that one side fails does not cause, 2 horrible events,
starting in gear, and then having cruise run, with foot on clutch, double danger./
same with brakes for exactly the same reasons.
failure to kill cruise braked, or brake lamps stuck on or dead. etc.
dual switches are needed. on this car.

[sidekicker]

Thanks Fixkick
I started thinking the new switch was single purpose so I decided to open up the old switch. It looked really good,all clean copper and springs looked good. Cleaned it up a bit and reinstalled, starting good and the cruise is working good and depressing clutch kills the cruise instantly, likewise hitting brake pedal. All as it should be. I will keep you posted if it acts up again. I had a pro mechanic look at the intermittent starting problem 2 or 3 times in the last couple of years and we never seemed to solve the problem. I put in 2 new starters myself and still had problems. It will be pretty ridiculous if the clutch safety switch was the problem all along. Will stay in touch
Thanks again Eddy

[fixkick]

Thanks Fixkick
I started thinking the new switch was single purpose so I decided to open up the old switch. It looked really good,all clean copper and springs looked good. Cleaned it up a bit and reinstalled, starting good and the cruise is working good and depressing clutch kills the cruise instantly, likewise hitting brake pedal. All as it should be. I will keep you posted if it acts up again. I had a pro mechanic look at the intermittent starting problem 2 or 3 times in the last couple of years and we never seemed to solve the problem. I put in 2 new starters myself and still had problems. It will be pretty ridiculous if the clutch safety switch was the problem all along. Will stay in touch
Thanks again Eddy

i kept in my glove box, a jumper wire with matching clips that match the clutch, switch.
just 2 clips, and if the clutch fails, (starter dead) i jumper it, I would never like being stranded for such a silly reason.

if the starter dont crank over, move the clutch pedal deeper, see if it cranks.
on my 91, the jam nut on the switch was missing so would get loose and no longer holds calibration (per FSM book)
so had to buy one of those to keep it tight,.

i have the written procedure.
the free pedal play too , if wrong effects this too.
travel adjustment, height adjustment and last CPP alignment (adjust)
the CPP is last (switch) page 7, the whole book is free . tracker = sidekick.

http://www.acksfaq.com/2016bp.php?urlnam...kerfsm.htm

[fixkick]

the rule is 1 inch for from floor, the CPP closes.
using meter.