Samurai fuel no spark code 41

[c_holland88]

Hey working on a 90 samurai 1.3 tbi. Had been not running and monkeyed with every possible way. (By previous mechanic) First thing I checked was cel active. Fuel pump cycled, and no fuel from injector no spark, code 71 flashing. Pulled ecm changed capacitors and checked traces. Reinstalled.
Now I have fuel. no spark. code 41 flashes after cranking for 5 seconds. Unplug ecu apply volts from 6 volt battery to pin 12 orange wire coil makes spark.
Could it still be the ignitor? Or did I miss something in the ecu? Any points in the right direction would be appreciated

[c_holland88]

This is a Canadian model 1.3 tbi (one injector) 3 wire distributor. 4 wire igniter. Fuses are good. Computer continues to supply fuel while cranking

[c_holland88]

Any idea what signal the computer needs on a6? I was testing direct at the coil. It produces a bright blue spark when u apply 6v to the orange b12 wire at the ecu connector. Thus I have power ground and good Harness.
The rotor turns with the cap off. Checked first. Compression test is good. I have been turning wrenches for a long time I always do a compression test first on all no starts and missfires

---

Could a guy bypass the ecu by taping into the 5v pulse from the distributor cas to the ignitor orange pin without damaging the cas ?

---

I believe the Filter is good 2.18 between pins 1 and 2 no continuity on pin 3. But according to schematic I have it is a ground

[c_holland88]

Ok jump orange from igniter to hall effect. engine fires up for 3 seconds then cuts fuel. I got to figure out how to make the computer happy. obviously the ignitor works but isn't sending the feedback to the computer. New igniter is $400cdn and cardone ecm is $800cdn. Also weeks away. I just need to make it fuel all the time any ideas?

[c_holland88]

I understand how it works I'm not a retard HillBilly poking around with booster cables attached to a screwdriver. The ecm is unplugged when I put power to b 12 and I'm using a 6 volt battery from a rc toy that consists of 4 aa batteries. Not enough amperage to hurt anything. The distributor has mechanical advance in it. Which might be non original someone monkeying before me.

---

I am fixing on a budget 2 hours from a parts store that cant even order half the parts i need. And I refuse to buy used electronic parts off eBay or elsewhere as I have been screwed before. If I have to put a carb and build a custom distributor out of chevy parts I will do so before I waste money on a ecm designed to fail. Unless I can get a diagnosis chart for testing the curcuits in the ecm. As I stated I removed it and replaced the caps inspected the board and repaired some damaged mounting pads. I'm going to remove it tomorrow night and back track on the b12 and the 2 inputs from igniter and cas. There must be a cracked trace

[fixkick]

the ECU cuts fuel if (spark read back is bad; yours is not. cutting fuel. so....)
so that would point to the coil bad. (if primary swings, ECU is happy but can still be dead HV spark) (coils have many failure modes, (shorts in winding's, opens, partial coil shorts. , shorts to core, )

but it be best to photo your distributor, with the lid off so we can see it guts.
and ecu partnumber. 89-91 they have like 3 or more fast evolving spark systems. (OBD1 was cause of many)
after all they must play together to work, and last..

[fixkick]

i pass on helping, no photos of the modified car, i cant help.
and ill never ever ever again, say dont hot wire or hot swap, electronics. it's your car blow up what you want. from now on. (this warning is learned in real electronics school day 1, so i say it never again.)sorry !
code 71 means some ONE left the "test switch terminal" jumped, DLC> on our suzuki it means the timing freeze jumper was not removed,,
code 41, means lost spark (means precursors to spark as no ODB1 can actually measure spark, )

http://www2.izook.com/?page_id=232

[fixkick]

a6 , this is the spark read back pin, it sees the voltage via a voltage devider in the suppressor module, i have have a schematic.
the coil primary goes to 60v or more, during the firing point, (back EMF induction)
this huge spike would blow up any ECU, so the engineer, devised a voltage divider, limiting the size of the signal.
here it is.
the pin number varies by which ECU you have, for 10 long years,

[fixkick]

if you look close the reduction goes 5: 1 more at the top of the 10k before the ECU sees it, The ECU will not like over 5vdc at any time. so.... all inputs are protected.(to a degree)
if you stuff high voltage (even 3 or 6 or 9v or 12v,) onto the base of a NPN transistor, it burns it up. The R1 is there to keep coil OFF , ECU pulled.

the ECU drives the base of the igniter with resistors to prevent damage to the ignition. the current is limited i most cases to under 10 mA, (most hand held batteries can exeed that easy) sorry, but is a fact.

to bench fire my ignitor , I used a 500 ohm resistor to at 5v supply, and can fire the ignitor and coil together.

[fixkick]

in simple words, 41 means the tachometer line is dead or weak.