AT OD flashing at idle

[rasmeidirt]

To answer your curious question.
Yes, it is bouncing during driving!
the original cable for speedometer was broken a few years back. I could not find the original Suzuki one, so I replaced with a compatible one before installing lub it with oil.

the speedometer needle is bouncing up and down a litle bit at a higher RPM around 3000 to 4500. But the odometer, trip meter and techometer work as normal.

The mech says the none original one always works like this!
Anything related to this?

__________________
'96 (07/95) Sidekick Sport 16V, 1.8L, 4 auto, 4x4, 4dr, A/C, ABS, 99K on odometer.

[fixkick]

the needle is bad,in the meter, (it has bearings there) or the cable is binding up. (2 ways)

if the cable binds, up's it jerks too. (rust, bad, frayed, or kinked, they jerk)

if the speedo make s funny sound, that is the needle bearings shot(in the meter behind the MPH needel)
if how ever, the meters is silent while the bouncing, then mostlikely the cable jerks (bad cable)

and if the TCM is using the meter, VSS1 sensor, the TCM will report this as VSS error.

the TCM on the G16 car, uses 2 VSS sensors the meter side VSS2, and the trail shaft. VSS1 (a master VSS and back-up VSS (a fact)

if the trans tail shaft VSS fails, the TCM sets a DCT error for IT ,and now uses the cluster VSS (OSS alternate) but if both VSS go dead, then shifting ends. no more upshifts.
i have no TCM schematics for J18s. zero.
that link above, has them. if go there. (mitchells)

but in any case, TCM needs to know vehicle, speeds. (out put speed of trans)
if the TCM can not KNOW, true speed, how can it shift?,. answer it cant, or if the VSS is flaky, the shifting will be erratic. as one might expect....

find the tail shaft VSS, remove it , clean it and put it back, might cure this problem.
they all (tail sensor only) gather metal dust and from a metal mud on the tip (magnet it is ) and then fails. clean off that mud and magic can happen.
with no scan tools, just looking can find this.
but that is just wild guessing, of the large numbers of things the A/T systems can do.

[fixkick]

when fixing cars, or asking for help?
it's wise to state all things on the car that are missing, or not working right.
the engine and the TCM,
both must know road speed, (that means not bouncing either)
if not the ENGINE power will be lacking
and the transmission will not shift correctly
same in 1996 and 2015


i might add.
I had to buy 3 clusters and mix the parts in all 3 to get one good cluster.
on my last car. (tracker)
one test i did (after buying them all on fleabay)
is to bench test it.

lamps ok, good
tacho, using my pulse generator
then fuel, and coolant temp.
last was the speed.

i took a variable speed drill motor
and on old speedo cable cut down to 6inches.
chucked up the cable, with round end.
and inserted the square in , in to the speedo fitting.
i switched the drill to reverse and slow speed.
i turn it on.
the needle fails to move, (scrap that meter)
next cluster. ok it moves, but the needle bounces as it moves. trash can 2.
last it moves and dont bounce and makes NO NOISE. (ear to casing)
good meter.
and odometer works
and vss clicks.

working on old cars is like that, mixing parts to get one good speedo head.
the good head had a bad tachometer, so i swapped the dead , to the good speed head.

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some of these ECU , go to limphome , when VSS dies, completely , a bad place to be...

[fixkick]

my guess, if you own a OBD2 scan tool
you can get rich there,,, in your country.
selling scan services for $100 a pop.

[fixkick]

the A/T TCM has many inputs
do you need a list? It's on the 96 FSM book http://www.acksfaq.com/96-FSM-v2-8A-39_pdf.htm
if any go wonky, the TCM will not work right.
it's a computer, and all computers lied to , mis Calculate. mis-process....
lots of inputs there are.

this is not your tcm but very close.



the non RED X pins are inputs.

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any shop that can repair N.American cars. 1996 and newer can scan this car.

[fixkick]

wish you were close, id do it for free.
in the states, most shops will scan for free, good business , practice ! (if they have time, some don't) or says, come in SAT at 8am.. quiet then.
Since you import USA spec, cars, there has to be a shop that has this tool. has to. or they'd not be able to fix any modern cars.?
The newer the car , the worst that gets. my car has 15 computers on board. It is a new world.

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also having your own tool helps.
you can drive on find , intermittent failures.
not all problems are simple, hard failures.
(loose connections, etc)

[rasmeidirt]

Hi, I am back. Due to my work mission.
I plugged the scan tool at idle, there were 6 codes. They were:

1. P0122 (Generic) Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor A Circuit Low Input
2. P0118 (Generic) Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input
3. P0125 (Generic) Insufficient Coolant Temp for Closed Loop Fuel Control
4. P0505 (Generic) Idle Air Control System
5. P1600 1 PCM Battery Circuit 2 Serial Communication Problem between ECM & TCM
6. P1705 ECT Signal Input Malfunction.

When I deleted them also at idle, there were three codes reappeared:

1. P0122 (Generic) Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor A Circuit Low Input
2. P0118 (Generic) Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input
3. P1705 ECT Signal Input Malfunction.

For now what I did is to change the tranny fluid.
Run the Mobil Multipurpose ATF Extra High Performance. It marked on the bottle: Suitable for use in applications requiring GM Dexron III H.
Dropped the tranny pan to inspect.
It was so clean inside. Nothing was suspicious. The filter for the Sport is just a wire mesh with the frame. It was easy to clean it.
I filled the amount of 4 liters, but have to pump out some. It is about 3.80 liters when the pan is removed. When just drain out, it is 2.5 liters.
Thanks.

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I also tested the three solenoids by disconnected the wires with separate battery, all of them got click!

[fixkick]

car is a real USA 1996, got you.... on that. P0 codes. is that.
the old codes , ignore them, can be caused by dead battery, or parts disconnected with key on,,, and are false. (mostly) but very useful, sure!!!
useful if the pop back up.

new fails we can work.
the ect is bad or unplugged . (it has 2pins , not 1)
the test is super easy.
ENGINE J18
Car 96 SPORT, wide frame version. with simular TCM transmission. 4sp as G16s have. (same flash codes, at OD lamp)
The TCM is not melded in to the ECU yet, until 1997. its a separate box.

if i knew your first key on air temperature before starting engine we'd have hard data.
lets pretend , its 30F , the ect ohms unplugged is about 6000 ohms. (key off test)
if ohms is no fun then connected, key on it reads about 3.7v back probed, with needles.. (ECU says its near 5v (wrong) or wires cut here, or sensor is bad) (not a guess, a list)
when hot the ohms test (disconnected ) is 300 ohms, hot.
or running 0.65v all the time. back probed.
end ECT, easy huh?

TPS
the TPS on this car must be calibrated, its not hard to do at all , a cheap $10 voltmeter, and easy.
how is it done,
1: key on,
2: connect voltmeter
3: loosen tps screws, turn tps to 0.5v, done, lock down screws

my guess is some mech was playing here, and decided to mess up this simple calibration.

P0122 , this means the ECU saw the voltage go way below, 0.5v
causes are:
1: the wire is cut there. TP pin
2: 5vdc way too low on the 5vdc, power pin, (easy test)
3: TPS bad. (i bet not)
4: someone played with tps screws. and messed it all up.


ATF (its ok, but condenser this.)
run Dexron VI
brands, i dont care, but must be DEXRON VI (6) its the newest grade and older are now obsolete and poorer grades , all are.

the grade 6 runs at hotter temps with less degradation.! ( the best you can run is here)
don't let bottles tell you what to do, do not look for DEX3. ever.
find out what is correct.
answer is DEXRON
and 2nd answer is highest GRADE VI, (grade III is no longer certified by DEX and is officially a dead product)
there are sellers selling grade 3 for huge profits ($10+ bottle) for the people that think they need grade III.
sad to watch that.

the amount that comes out is totally random, think like its a sponge. (it is)
if you let it park over night more comes out. so.... forget that...
put back what came out. then adjust levels to operators guide steps, never guess or do it like engine oil,
or damage will happen.

PS:
do not unplugged, connectors on the car, with key turned to ON, or running.
if you must, then unplug battery neg LUG first.

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TPS facts are here , the gray wire is the TP pin


http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/tests/TPS...ml#1.8_cal

the schematic is here.
gray-yellow is ground 0.0vdc
the gray-read must be near 5v key on or running (4.7-5.25v is spec)
thy gray is TP (aka. throttle angle and must be calibrated to 0.5vdc)
full ecu schematic is here, see the pins on TPS? clear as day.
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/18L/18LiterECU1.pdf

OD flashing is a whole other ball of wax. (problems, p1600 means ecu cant send live data to the TCM box.) my guess you unplugged it and turned on key.

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rules on cars, (modern)
do no hot wire, anything, (ok the starter solenoid is ok to do for testing)
nor ground things , not supposed to be ground.
nor hot swap anything, means with battery connected or with key on. or things can blow up.
for sure never hot swap the ECU. or TCM. or cruise module, etc.
never hot wire the fuel pump relay socket, or boom ,kiss off a $400 ECU. or more.
if you unplug TCM , and then key on, the ECU will set P1600, (harmless, no damage, but now TRANNY is a manual tranny missing 1 gear)

to erase all stored DTCs, in ECU and TCM , pull the dome fuse for 5min and put it back.
or use the scan tool like you did, but it wont erase TCM, this year,


TCM checks.
we dont have the book that shows where they hid the 1996, TCM (diagnostic, check pin)
nor where they moved the DLC for TCM.
to find it will take looking at wire colors of all connectors on car that have no connectors, naturally.
id look at all colors , at the 16pin DLC at top right of your knee, as a good starting place.
The G16 car the wire is BLUE-ORANGE
and goes to pin1, of G16, DLC for TCM (dedicated)
but on your 1996 J18 this wire goes to , I DONT know !, but would love to find it and could hands on..

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if you had a 1997 car
the ECu would have P07xx codes. for sure. tranny errors. TCM errors.
but it's not a 97.

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i got more, always do
the j18
what not to do
do not play with the cam sensor (CMP) on rear of cam.
leave it alone,
if you must remove it,. match mark it first. mark case and its mount so you can put it back (exactly) like it was, factory timed.
if you lose this mark, you then get to find the timing freeze jumper , to re time, it. ( but takes some work)
it at the Left strut tower DLC connector. (drivers left side.engine bay)
as seen here
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/IGN-FREEZE.HTML

6pins, same as G16 uses.
and while there,
look for that TCM BLUE-ORANGE wire,,,,
there are 3 DLC on this car
one here.
and the one above the right drivers knee (OBD2, 16pin)

hope that gets you going./
cheers...

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those 2nd group of DTC errors
are called catastrophic errors.
mean gross failures.
means cut wire or shorted wires.
0v found
or 5v found
both very illegal.

or like in base ball, a Foul ball.

[rasmeidirt]

Thank you very much.
I have another problem. The upper part (don't know the exact name) of my radiator get crack. I cannot find the one here for replacement, may be I have to mod it to the metal one! Other cars they just replace it, we Suzuki do not have that. Do you know where it sell this part, or we need to replace the whole radiator?
__________________
'96 (07/95) Sidekick Sport 16V, 1.8L, 4 auto, 4x4, 4dr, A/C, ABS, 99K on odometer.

[fixkick]

warning there are many G16s sold that the sellers never seen an J18 engine ever, and will sell you the wrong part, for sure. id buy local for that reason alone, avoiding 3 way shipping horrors.
we dont know where here is? usa, canada? where?
the top plastic tank failed, all do. not big deal that.
you cant mod plastic to aluminum, ever.
we Suzuki do not have that. ( huh?) it think you mean brass, yes, no brass now for like 25years.
no, like all cars now, with alum,plastic rads. its new RAD time. for SURE.

there are kinda nice brass clones sold on ebay, most fit bad but with mods to mounts work. done one.
CSF 2913. (brasS)
http://199.237.237.73/CSF_CATALOG/#
every auto store here, in texas has them.

see this page of mine
http://www.fixkick.com/buy-parts.html#Radiators

specra has them.

http://ecat.spectrapremium.com/a/11872

now.
watch out.
even mighty NAPA fails to ask engine code, yours is VIN 2 = J18 , the G16 vin code is 0
most stores does this wrong , due to SUZUKI not using 3 engine numbers, so they cant ask you, it and get it right every time.
as suzuki dealer they look up your vin and then its buildsheet and then get it right.,
no store on earth can do that. we he buyer just be sharp

1: core sizes L&W
2: a/t or mt.
3: engine type. G16A , G16B or J18

not easy, but take your rad with you to the store put it on the counter and grin, me needs this, and win every time.
mail ordering is fail time.
ive done it but only after photos sent and measurments.

Thank you very much.
I have another problem. The upper part (don't know the exact name) of my radiator get crack. I cannot find the one here for replacement, may be I have to mod it to the metal one! Other cars they just replace it, we Suzuki do not have that. Do you know where it sell this part, or we need to replace the whole radiator?
__________________
'96 (07/95) Sidekick Sport 16V, 1.8L, 4 auto, 4x4, 4dr, A/C, ABS, 99K on odometer.

ever store should ask you which engine firsts.
door count
and model. sidekick,
and tranny
most dont. KV = van 4dr, KC is 2door canvas top. (secret codes ask by some)

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the other way
is the BFSD, big huge screw driver, jammed where a real fly lock goes.
one guy fit visegrips there , in some way.

i hear all the ways, , and all do work....