Greetings..and..Transmission

[GeoHacker]

After loosening things up with a DIY jig, I got it off finally, using super long nose pliers, skinny at end, and holding tight, then smacking with rubber hammer.

Now am plastic hammer beating the countershaft out per manual step 12, but sure seems odd way to do it. Since i'd already removed the front bearing circiip had to put that back on first.

Can't sleep until I get this licked (leaving the input and main shaft and funstuff for later)

Fifth speed fixed gear slid right off soon as I pulled the rear bearing, so did reverse fixed gear (splines), no pullers needed. Not sure if that's good or not.

Either am blessed or cursed here. Manual shows them using a press to get them off.

I sure hope that 5th gear being that loose on the splines isn't the cause of my 5th gear whine. Wonder why it is like that (along with reverse?)

r

[fixkick]

the tool called a snap ring pliers are manditory.
you do not want them to fly to parts unknown
or stress them and make them useless.
32 is just a snap ring, you need the tool... this tool is needed for all transmission work, or all things with snap rings... (circlips, some call them) they are spring steel, and if over stretched they are damaged.
think how bad one falling off a running car would be not fun.... they need to fit tight back on ... later.

put the dremel too far from car. out of reach it has no place in trans work, for 2 reasons (metal dust) and all it does is damage things...

the first tool to buy is a real snap ring pliers.
if not , you will do more damage than good.
make sure the 33/34 part is not missing.... since you see signs of hacking,, photo the hacks, so i can see what the jokers did./?
see tools

http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/5speed-rebuild.html#tools

there are many tools to buy in this catagory. some are expensive,( due to working forwards or backwards. and many bits)
and others are cheap like $15 that are just expanding (say) and just fixed bit. simple.
then sizes.
I think cheap, expanding medium snap ring tool does all these rings..(harbor fright (pun) has em... as do all autostores)

in this box. never use a hammer inside the box. (with a wood buffer, ok)
If the box is still good, and rings. good.
then you can install bearings with no damage, the box will run another 200k.... easy.

the first rule of box repair, is "first do no harm". (no damage added at all)



HF:
http://www.harborfreight.com/11-piece-sn...92374.html

they (HF) have a 3 dollar tool that might work or above. kit.

i have like 10 of them... from motorcycle sizes up.
here is one of my favorites. of the 100s of types sold. (overwhelming types... yes)
KD tools.
http://www.toploaderheaven.com/Toploader...Plyers.jpg


the cluster out ,if i remember correct , needs force from front to rear. 33 off. 35 off. 50 off.
then with brass or wood buffer (drive pin brass never steel) or wood hit 28 with all snap rings off. (for wood use hard wood dowels)
i forgot the details, now... but it is minor tricky, not too hard.
if you look at it that large cluster front gear is not going forward so to the rear it must go.
i might have even hit the center shift of 27, with my brass drift pin, (HF sells them cheap! these pin kits of brass) the brass will do no HARM.
putting the cluster back , is reverse of above. in fact the 27 on last might help....

my 29 bearing was balls. (unitized, unlike the photo)
I should have documented the cluster work,, but forgot to , back then, but I do remember, standing and looking hard, before, attacking it.... pondering it.
ill check the FSM book later to see if it has any helpful advice...

CHEERS !

[fixkick]

i added comments to how to work the cluster out then back in.
on my page.

it is a bit tricky.
page 10
http://www.acksfaq.com/pdfs/sidekick_dri...manual.pdf

[GeoHacker]

Thanks for the notes and new info.

I got the Harbor Freight 'Pittsburgh Puller / Bearing Separator Kit' big and small bearing puller kit, works nice enough. With coupon, went from $44 to 36. That large bearing puller you have pictured though is the ticket at a minimum.

My #29 is a roller bearing, on a race/bushing on the shaft. The replacement for it in the kit is a ball bearing though. So either i have to pull the race/bushing or find a new bearing like the old.

I got the counter shaft out just fine using rubber mallet initially to get it backed out, then plastic dead-blow hammer per the manual, etc. It's all apart (except for the front end, which I will leave alone, 60 61 62 63 )

What worries me still is the looseness of 5th fixed year, 35, on the splines of the countershaft.

It is more loose than one would think is optimal. Sliding off without a puller is one thing , but being able to rotate the gear itself a wee bit cw-ccw on the splines is different. I wonder if I should use some Loctite 660 or some other bonder on the re-install for 5th?

[GeoHacker]

Got the input shaft clear and off, de-bearinged (harbor freight puller). I might have to pick up a press if my homebuilt approach fails, these things are heck.

Do you oil the surfaces using light machine oil before pressing a bearing on, or do you do it dry?

If I had the money to rent a basketball team, I could install them using a full-court press.

[fixkick]

great questions, all....
the old bearing 29 is obsolete. i'd think its hard to find or buy, just find a way to get it out. (pullers.)
yes ,even old dead blow hammers of all lead or lead filled leather work or plastic. I only mention the rubber hammer , due to dirt cheap and on the shelf.
sure leave front alone, 4wd , 56-60

if 35 is too loose (5th) on the sline and spline is not worn then 35 is bad. due to running with bearing 31/29, bad too long... beat the splines top death.
if you loctite 35 it will end up , non concentric, and 5th will bind, in some degree's of rotation. my gosh what a sound that would make....
having 2 boxes, helps in the rebuilt due to Suzuki wildly expensive parts. (piece by piece)
examine the cluster rear spine carefully, see if the shaft is worn...there...

most times one can work with no press here,,, if you can get it apart with gear pullers and chain sets.
use light machine oil. never dry...
the bearings can be all be put back with dead blows.... in most cases.. just use force in the bearing centers. and all is safe.

there is always, exceptions, say a bearing overheated and is stressed, it's shrunk? or galled inside. and the puller can't budge it... most times this is not true.

don't forget you are earning about $100/hr with sweat equity.!! DIY. CHin up and CHEERS !

ill check suzuki on parts. avail. and prices....

---

the cluster (counter) is out of stock at suzuki.
but over $500 each.
http://cobratransmission.com/geo-tracker...50035045-1

the 5th gear is stocked. (bottom)
24351-60a10 at $163


so that is why used spare transmissions are better deal. (donors)


link to 5th gear.
http://suzukicarparts.com/parts/1995/Suz...searchText=

5th gear comes on 2 ratio's one for light car and one for heavy, (or 8v/16v?)

[GeoHacker]

[quote='fixkick' pid='4022' dateline='1433243949']
great questions, all

[fixkick]

paste the p/n in to the link (search by pn.)
24351-60a10
ignore the not found, that is the new database , giving that false warning,.... the name is >>>GEAR,CTSHFT 5TH

they stay cool, unlike A/T, mostly
for sure below 180F. water temp.. minus a tad.....

yes, lots of good trans, get sent to alumin, recycle.
a real sickness that...


http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=suz...n&_sacat=0





the gear is expensive...

and the wrecker net.
find one and bid low?

http://www.car-part.com/cgi-bin/search.c...userPage=3

---

i see only the upper gear ratio changes on 5th. the bigger HP engine pulls a taller gear. (and faster speeds) 23 tooth and 25tooth choices.
.86:1 for 8v and 0.80:1 for 16v ratios in fifth.

the bottom gear has 44 teeth for all bodies and engines...
the top is 25 on the 8v. 25 teeth, how 2 extra teeth and not change diameter confuses me.... i must be getting tired.

great work checking reverse wear and 5th on shaft. nice idea. gives you idea on what is worn more... very good.

[GeoHacker]

yes, lots of good trans, get sent to alumin, recycle.
a real sickness that...

Bummer, these things are rare these days


great work checking reverse wear and 5th on shaft. nice idea. gives you idea on what is worn more... very good.

I called a guy in Arkansas who kindly found a similar [used] gear, not sure of price yet, but I am not sure if is close enough, or if is an aftermarket, earlier model or what, given the differences?

[fixkick]

there is no after market here. nobody makes gears for suzuki boxes.
the 44 teeth should match yours.
id be all over the teeth.
if he knows year,

well the top center of tranny bell has the serial # and the letter code for year. what is that.>?
the decode is same as vin codes.
see A thru K codes here
http://www.fixkick.com/specs/VIN-motor-decoder.html


if i had his box serial number on top of bell i can look it up in the suzuki parts cat.


that taper dont matter. just teeth and diameters. (id /od)

my guess is his is a match.
but suzuki makes lots of boxes.