93 sidekick 16 valve burning rich!

[Shears#22]

I got a samurai with a 93 side kick 1.6 16 valve. Ran fine until about 3 months ago. Started dyeing when I come to complete stop or just knocking it out of gear to cost to a stop. And it’s gotten worse burning rich , idling rough almost like a miss, reving up and down at times blowing black smoke out of exhaust. I’ve literally done everything I know to do. It’s OBD 1. My codes are 33. & 34. Which are both MAF. I’ve put 3 on it ranging from 150$-400$ no change! I’ve checked wiring going to sensor. Got good power and ground a solid 12.8v. Communication wire ohms out back to ECM! Sensor ohms out good! I’ve checked it plugged up and unplugged. Within the 3 months I have rebuilt the engine had block and heads checked at machine shop. Here is a list of parts I have installed trying to fix the issue!

-new temp sensor ( going to ECM )
-new idle control valve & cold idle control valve both checked before installing 
-new EGR valve
-4 new MAF
- new tps sensor
- all new vacuum lines 
- throttle body has been removed and cleaned 
- upper and lower intake have been removed and cleaned including the 4 holes in lower intake 
-new plugs ( gapped on 28)
-new wires
- new distributor and cap!
- checked timing multiple times (timed on 4) 
- all coolant hoses have been removed and blown through 
- new water pump 
- new oil pump. 
- new timing belt
- key way checked on crank
- new reman original injectors ( new seals)
- new air filter ( has cold air Intake, is secured and not bouncing around)
- new fuel pump ( bought from trail gear high pressure pump)
- new fuel filters
- new regulator on fuel rail
- fuel pressure checked on rail ( checked good)
- new pcv valve.
- new o2 sensor

Has header , pipe , and muffler no CAT. Everything flows as should.


 
Relays checked on fire wall ( Checked good even under a load )
The only thing I have not replaced is the ECM everything thing on this engine is new. Any help would be great! Im out of ideas

[fixkick]

I got a samurai with a 93 side kick 1.6 16 valve. Ran fine until about 3 months ago. Started dyeing when I come to complete stop or just knocking it out of gear to cost to a stop. And it’s gotten worse burning rich , idling rough almost like a miss, reving up and down at times blowing black smoke out of exhaust. I’ve literally done everything I know to do. It’s OBD 1. My codes are 33. & 34. Which are both MAF. I’ve put 3 on it ranging from 150$-400$ no change! I’ve checked wiring going to sensor. Got good power and ground a solid 12.8v. Communication wire ohms out back to ECM! Sensor ohms out good! I’ve checked it plugged up and unplugged. Within the 3 months I have rebuilt the engine had block and heads checked at machine shop. Here is a list of parts I have installed trying to fix the issue!

-new temp sensor ( going to ECM )
-new idle control valve & cold idle control valve both checked before installing 
-new EGR valve
-4 new MAF
- new tps sensor
- all new vacuum lines 
- throttle body has been removed and cleaned 
- upper and lower intake have been removed and cleaned including the 4 holes in lower intake 
-new plugs ( gapped on 28)
-new wires
- new distributor and cap!
- checked timing multiple times (timed on 4) 
- all coolant hoses have been removed and blown through 
- new water pump 
- new oil pump. 
- new timing belt
- key way checked on crank
- new reman original injectors ( new seals)
- new air filter ( has cold air Intake, is secured and not bouncing around)
- new fuel pump ( bought from trail gear high pressure pump)
- new fuel filters
- new regulator on fuel rail
- fuel pressure checked on rail ( checked good)
- new pcv valve.
- new o2 sensor

Has header , pipe , and muffler no CAT. Everything flows as should.


 
Relays checked on fire wall ( Checked good even under a load )
The only thing I have not replaced is the ECM everything thing on this engine is new. Any help would be great! Im out of ideas

is this manual or auto transmission, the ECU is not the same.
2doors right?  sorry but I need to know the full drive train


No photos of under hood work this is a FrankinSAMMI so only photos matter as this car was never sold new like this ever.
NO ECU model told at all. that tag,  56xxxx 58xxx 7xxxxx ??????
58B30 is my guess,   federal MT box, car. 16v

the 2 codes do not lie ever,  and gee the maf is good, not bad 4 time unless bought from ebay + china CRAP MAF , that are pure JUNK



show the maf model number stamping and I can tell you if it is real.  most are not now , fake clones are par now. this old Suzuki does not sell them
the best is/was CARDONE 1.  maker. (refurber usa)


the stock engine has  huge induction pipe systems.
putting CAI cold air pipe hacks cause any MAF to fail.

my stock 96 the air pipe huge aluminum pipe the left (facing) aluminum huge mount was busted clean off and sucking HUGE AIR.
called Illegal UNMETERED AIR. and fail it will.
34 and 35 are contradiction, nobody gets that, not saying you did not , just means my hairs on neck standing up, OUCH


in most cases the ECU never sets  MAF DTC errors unless the MAF output shorts to ground or to 12v.
shorts only
never weak.  
so what is out put pin of MAF read at idle my MAF pages covers the whole range.
my first guess is the wiring maf to ECU is bad.


maf out is 1.7 to 2.0 vdc 800rpm hot, at idle is it?  has 3 pins, 1 is ground , 1 is  out and 1is 12v to 15vdc main relay out power.

the dead maf puts the old ECU in to deep limp-home  MODE and huge un-burned black smoke fuel, to spark and 02.

the sees the dead maf and then must Simulate it,  using TPS angle and RPM, crude as heck.

see page 8  ,1995  is same

https://fixkick.com/power-elect/95%20ele...racker.pdf


see colors of wires
to maf, all 3.

check out all 6 ends of all 3 wires.


off hand I say bad wiring to mAF

is the car with factory 16v harness. or custom?






here i my first china crap MAF>
pure trash
http://fixkick.com/sensors/china-maf/cloned-maf.html


cardone has them still

https://www.cardone.com/product/mass-air...r-74-10033


they do not do direct sales,  napa can get them.

not saying your MAF is  bad, saying only to test it use the voltmeter , in your DMM
key on 1.2v at MAF pin out.
idle
and gunned fast. on the output pin can hit 3v ,

first make sure pin ground is 0v, meter to battery neg lug, and other lead to MAF ground pin, 0vdc is good 0.5vdc max it is

then 12v pin, keyon and idling is 13 to 15vdc idling
that output full y tested is next

learn this too. (the output pin only)
the maf when connected to the ECU the output pin of the maf sees a very precision 1000.0 ohm resistor.

if not connected the maf pin reads way too high and the ECU sees  zero volts, DTC code 34 (too long error)
the magic resistor forms a  very special voltage divider ! and confuse many.

seen here

http://fixkick.com/sensors/china-maf/schem1b.jpg


I bet bad wires.

[fixkick]

all it takes is 1 voltmeter to find this and doing 6 ends of 3 wires.
yes a pain at the ECU end yes.

One alternate cure , even more simple
is replace all 3 wires.
G110 ground must be good, even with 3 new wires it must be good.
this ground is ECU critical, found on stock car Lug on fire wall , R/H side, above harness passthru... only the FSM shows its exact spot.
if it is bad the mAF goes dead/
for sure.
see 16v ground here.
those have to be good

http://fixkick.com/Good_Bad_Ugly/common-failures.html

[fixkick]

we can find it for sure
just with a volt meter

[fixkick]

https://fixkick.com/forum/ezgallery.php?...lery&cat=1

post photos to the gallery
add pictures click.

[Shears#22]

   

[Shears#22]

           

[fixkick]

that is called the cold air intake kit.
it is a maf torture test.
the MAF , is super expensve device. $400 up
this kit allows the MAF to bounce hard and violently at all times bumps in the road the endless shacking of this 4 banger engine.
the MAF must be hard mounted to the body of car to make it last. as the car designer did.

all else looks ok
the maf codses do not lie, the PCm sees errors from the MAF . ( this is a hard fact)

the MAF on mine has a grill in front of maf this is not a bug grill.
it is called in air fluid dynamics a device that takes turbulent air and force it to go straight flow. so the MAF can read correctly
is it missing as in GONE?
see back side view here it is not a bug screen at all, period


MAF PHOTO's (aka: THE AIR METER) The USA MASS AIR FLOW sensor.: SUZUKI p/n 13800-58B00
Below, is the common HOT wire type,see it?, clean that gently from 6 inches away with MAF cleaner. (carb cleaner in a PINCH) 100% Electronic.
Do not remove this screen , it is not a screen it is a laminar flow device, it straightens the air so the hot wire can take readings accurately , don't molest the MAF.


http://fixkick.com/sensors/92-95MAF/97Tracker-maf.jpg

[fixkick]

now my guess on MAF, performace
the MAF may only only allow 3g's of shock.
not bouncing like mad..
the pure electronics may be ok for shock but the wires inside will vibrate and fray then snap.
the worse is vibration. and boy you have lots of that now
hacked. CAI , hacks.
find a way to mount the MAF with a huge bracket to the left, strut tower> so the MAF is now clamped to the cars body some why.

and the FAM signals going wild, (vibration) the maf and PCM both have aIr flow scaling amps, and can fail easy with those nasty Glitching flow signals.

day1 new the 16v looked like this. Stock CAR.

https://fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/more-photos...-suck1.JPG

the maf was stabilized by the AIR cleaner base mounts, to prevent engine vibration
and the flex tubes too.

[fixkick]

maf reading wrong or wires to the PCM and sensors bad, or grounds to them bad.