Need some help

[sina27]

factoid
the susuki EPC (master parts catalog)
shows only 1 cat for 92-95, 8valve engine , not 2, and not cal fed , only 16v has that deal

61a02 then later 61a03 (03 code is 2004 year)
just looked it  up.
so there is no cal cat, (it is marketing abuse i guess)

Thank You,

Even though the car is a FED car I will need to have a CAT installed for it to pass smog since I live in california. Dont these cars need a CAT for the proper back pressure to be applied in order to make the EGR system properly function? 
I actually noticed that there is a large hole in the pipe BEFORE the muffler, which is why the car may be idling so oddly (no back pressure) and is loud. Maybe this is what may be causing it to run rich and smell like gas?
I plan on taking my car to a muffler shop and have them put on a California compliant CAT, even if its a custom job.

I also ordered a new thermostat (BECK 1430688) (hopefully this is the correct one??) along with a couple different gasket types which I will determine which one to use when I pull the STAT. Do you know offhand which STAT gasket I should use?
I ordered 3 different gaskets from rock auto: FelPro 35432, FelPro 36102, and FelPro 35416. I can measure the thermostat lip to determine the correct one to use.....
In addition, I ordered a ECT sensor and a ECT sender / gauge from NAPA which I will also be installing when I put the new STAT in. \

On top of all this Im changing the front and rear diff oil with Sta Lube 80W 90 GL5, the transfer case with Sta Lube 85-90 Gl4, and the transmission with Penzoil Syncrhomesh.

[fixkick]

factoid
the susuki EPC (master parts catalog)
shows only 1 cat for 92-95, 8valve engine , not 2, and not cal fed , only 16v has that deal

61a02 then later 61a03 (03 code is 2004 year parts book not car year.)   BOTH CATS ARE THE SAme 8v.
just looked it  up.
so there is no cal cat, (it is marketing abuse i guess)

Thank You,

Even though the car is a FED car I will need to have a CAT installed for it to pass smog since I live in california. Dont these cars need a CAT for the proper back pressure to be applied in order to make the EGR system properly function? 
I actually noticed that there is a large hole in the pipe BEFORE the muffler, which is why the car may be idling so oddly (no back pressure) and is loud. Maybe this is what may be causing it to run rich and smell like gas?
I plan on taking my car to a muffler shop and have them put on a California compliant CAT, even if its a custom job.

I also ordered a new thermostat (BECK 1430688) (hopefully this is the correct one??) along with a couple different gasket types which I will determine which one to use when I pull the STAT. Do you know offhand which STAT gasket I should use?
well this year had 2 intake manifolds and  uses 2 radial different thermostats. 1mm rim and 4mm rim.



I ordered 3 different gaskets from rock auto: FelPro 35432, FelPro 36102, and FelPro 35416.
I can measure the thermostat lip to determine the correct one to use.....
In addition, I ordered a ECT sensor and a ECT sender / gauge from NAPA which I will also be installing when I put the new STAT in. \

On top of all this Im changing the front and rear diff oil with Sta Lube 80W 90 GL5, the transfer case with Sta Lube 85-90 Gl4, and the transmission with Penzoil Syncrhomesh.

sorry I was not more clear
sure you need a cat
but I was only telling you both cars 8valve, FED and CALIF left the factory new (CAMI) with the same 3way cat and same exact suzuki Part numbers. (16valve a different answer)
yes the EGR is dead lacking a cat
no holes at the CAT back pipes do not change fuel emission but it will suck in air and cause tail type smog station sniffer go nuts (huge oxygen readings)
the missing cat on any car has nasty fumes even in good tune, CO is high,  the cat is 3ways and 1 way is CO reduction and no cat you smell that nasty and very toxic CO gas.
carbon MONOXIDE, the silent killer.

do not run the car in any garage with persons in that garage. CO is deadly if allowed to accumulate. or worse if  rooms over garages.

sure aftermarket cat and exhuast is ok of calif visual inspections allow, it,  in calif there ar  4tests, 1 is visual 2nd is sniffer test. (and gas cap test)  and CEL out  hot engine test.

the cat missing only wrecks EGR.
the engine use the 02 sensor hot, to control fuel mix, at hot idle and steady cruise hot and never WOT. wide open throttle.
key factors of mixtures good
no bad spark, mag wires are best , and lost the longest and helps this weak park system run way better, NGK or BOSCH MAG wire or others.
fuel pressure at spec,
ECT not bad
IAT does little.
MAP is huge #1 player, at all times, and full time WOT> when 02 goes off line MAP runs the show for mix. (no hose cracks to map)

seems you are doing real well.

the newer year, has deep well and uses a huge slit, rubber surround gasket 4mm, earlier are paper 1mm step
the 1992 changed on one VIN serial number ,   after they went 4mm later years were 4mm, even 1998.
my guess is yours will be the paper gasket type but some cars have engine swaps and get the 1995 manifold.
if you use paper with the 4mm deep  lip  the STAT floats and fails,

[sina27]

Thanks !

Okay
SO - the BECK 1430688 thermostat I ordered will work for BOTH the 1mm and 4mm lip models, correct?
To determine which GASKET I use with this thermostat, I should measure the lip - if 4mm lip, I will use the rubber O-RING. If 1mm lip, I will use the paper gasket.
 (I ordered both gasket and o-ring from rock auto). 

So your explanation of why the CAT is necessary for the EGR to work properly might explain why the car idles rough. Hopefully the CAT installation will help this issue. 

Thanks for the help Kick!

[fixkick]

Thanks !

Okay
SO - the BECK 1430688 thermostat I ordered will work for BOTH the 1mm and 4mm lip models, correct?
To determine which GASKET I use with this thermostat, I should measure the lip - if 4mm lip, I will use the rubber O-RING. If 1mm lip, I will use the paper gasket.
 (I ordered both gasket and o-ring from rock auto). 

So your explanation of why the CAT is necessary for the EGR to work properly might explain why the car idles rough. Hopefully the CAT installation will help this issue. 

Thanks for the help Kick!

yes the best ones come with both gaskets,
the EGR dead does not cause the engine ever to do any funny things, cat dead /missing or rodded out   means EGR is dead and fully closed, if is close there are no EGR bad effects possible.
4mm lip must have huge rubber gasket
the 1mm lip can never fit the 5mm rubber ringed gasket.
the 1mm paper gasket is useless on the 4mm pip and allows the STAT to float wildly and horrible effects see my ice berg page. on that.

The eGR working  only does1 thing and 1 thing only, lowers NOX gasses (toxic) (smog reason)
Ok 2 more, it lowers combustion chamber temps and valves exh last longer, and no more pinging if it did ping.

on a normal car with good cat, the EGR issue (old EGR main valve there) is it sticks open as you roll to a stop and engine stalls or runs at 400 RPM and shakes like wet dog.
on your car it never ever opens the EGR so is offline,. and engine runs great, spark good fueling right.

says fits ( I can not speak for any 3rd party maker )

http://www.beckcatalog.com/partdetail.as...THERMOSTAT

[fixkick]

your engine may be paper only STAT , IDK, only looking proves the pudding.
old cars can have wrong parts. easy as eating cheery pie.
or swaps. this old. 29 years old now. not some spring chicken , it is OLD OLD
so old now I see 1 per month on the road, rare,.

one trick is the drain out 1gallon of coolant (1/2?)
off the stat lid and look , put back lid , put back saved coolant above, and be ready.
or as you said both gaskets in hand first. (me that is what I do)

[sina27]

your engine may be paper only STAT , IDK,  only looking proves the pudding.
old cars can have wrong parts.  easy as eating cheery pie.
or swaps.  this old. 29 years old now.  not  some spring chicken , it is OLD OLD
so old now I see 1 per month on the road, rare,.

one trick is the drain out 1gallon  of coolant (1/2?)
off the stat lid and look , put back lid , put back saved coolant above, and be ready.
or as you said both gaskets in hand first. (me that is what I do)

Will do. I plan on changing the ECT sensor and sender so I will drain some coolant anyways. 

After this I have to figure out why the heater doesnt turn on AT ALL. The heater switch doesnt do anything. 
Whats the easiest way to chase this? Is the culprit usually the blower motor resistor? 
I can try and test these using parts from my 1996 Tracker. If the resistor may be the culprit I can remove it from my 96 kick and put it in my 92 to see if thats whats causing it....

[sina27]

your engine may be paper only STAT , IDK,  only looking proves the pudding.
old cars can have wrong parts.  easy as eating cheery pie.
or swaps.  this old. 29 years old now.  not  some spring chicken , it is OLD OLD
so old now I see 1 per month on the road, rare,.

one trick is the drain out 1gallon  of coolant (1/2?)
off the stat lid and look , put back lid , put back saved coolant above, and be ready.
or as you said both gaskets in hand first. (me that is what I do)

[sina27]

so i changd the rear and front axle oils. i also changed the transmission oil wiith penzoil synchromesh. 
i wanted to change the transfer case oil, but the top oil screw is stripped. i can open the bottom drain one if i want to. 
is there a way to add the correct amount of oil without removing the top oil screw? Maybe through the speedo / gear part that slips out from the t-case (the one with the 10mm bolt on back of transfer case). or by removing the rear slip yoke / seal and adding it through there? 

about the high idle / surging: 
i have to replace the EGR valve because i broke one of the metal nipples thast connects to hosing. Oreily has the california egr valve for my car - i can install that one and make sure to install the thermoprobe - the thermoprobe wiring just wouldnt connect to anyting, correct? 

hopefully once i replace the ECT sensor/sender, the STAT, the EGR valve, and then get a CAT installed and fix the hole in the exhaust pipe, this willl all resolve the high idle and surging during warmup....
but you did just mention that a broken EGR valve or lack of back pressure wouldnt cause high idle or surging....so hopefully the issue is with the stat or ECT sensors....not sure what else it might be...the ISC is new. 

[fixkick]

so i changd the rear and front axle oils. i also changed the transmission oil wiith penzoil synchromesh. 
i wanted to change the transfer case oil, but the top oil screw is stripped. i can open the bottom drain one if i want to. 
is there a way to add the correct amount of oil without removing the top oil screw? Maybe through the speedo / gear part that slips out from the t-case (the one with the 10mm bolt on back of transfer case). or by removing the rear slip yoke / seal and adding it through there? 
NO, we just use tig./mig welder and fast , weld on a bolt to the stripped hole, cured.



I forget if car hood says CALIF or not and if the ECU is CALIF or not.  both matter, for works right and smog man not angry.
about the high idle / surging: 
i have to replace the EGR valve because i broke one of the metal nipples thast connects to hosing.
Oreily has the california egr valve for my car -
i can install that one and make sure to install the thermoprobe -
the thermoprobe wiring just wouldnt connect to anyting, correct? 
the CAL EGR fit  any FED/cal car, only the wires are not used on FED. nor are there wires in the harness for  it  if Fed car, , fed harness, and fed ECU. 
The FED EGR  fails hard on any CALIF car (ECU tag number looks up as CALIF, Code 033 ecu , code 03 is FED. see? the ECU part number matters  most of all, then harness too.
what matters is what ECU p/n# is there

hopefully once i replace the ECT sensor/sender, the STAT, the EGR valve, and then get a CAT installed and fix the hole in the exhaust pipe, this willl all resolve the high idle and surging during warmup....
EGR will not cure surge,, only dead ECT in this will, nor new cat make engine run better  but egr + cat does stop pinging sure.

but you did just mention that a broken EGR valve or lack of back pressure wouldnt cause high idle or surging....so hopefully the issue is with the stat or ECT sensors....not sure what else it might be...the ISC is new. 

lots of things cause  idle fail and or surges,  not cat, not EGR.

idle is dead if ECU does not show 12s all the time, limphome cancels idle controls and that is a fact and out  of control idle.
The first part to replace is the STAT all  cars 1989 to now run super bad with a cold running STAT so is a first order failure, hard,  
then fuel pressure,
and DTC 12 all the time ,you can drive this car with the DLC jumper installed all day long to see if code 12 runs all day long,  sure can., and fully safe,
do not drive with timing freeze jumper inserted or burn up the cat you will. rule 2.
the EGR purpose is  to stop NOX pollution +cat does that., just one goal,  the ECU  tests is crude,  but the stall test on my EGR page must pass( finger test)
the EGR is closed at idle on all these cars  (ECU logic) and there for  not effect idle ever. if idling at code 12. (EGR main not stuck open sure)
can not. it is disabled at idle and in your case double disabled with missing cat and no back pressure to make the EGR MOD work at all.

sure and next is  after a bad STAT is replace, learn that some STAT when they fail lock open (the so called fail safe stats) and then car runs SUPER  SUPER RICH and stalls or surges
A STAT  came fail 3 ways,  too hot , too cold or way to slow.  even taking 30  miles to hit 180f. all bad, nothing worse really than this simple device bad,  a slam dunk part.
the top makers tells it is a 7 year life part,  so is on par with bad battery life.

The ECT must read 300 ohms or less.(unplugged hot)
the eCt must go to 0.65vdc (same as 300ohms but back probed testing hot engine fully)  if reads wrong the stat must be tested next. or simply replaced and if not get 0.65vdc you are done. with ECT worry. easy no:?

next is fuel pressure. in spec,  if at 50PSI the FPR is bad, and is common now, it is a relic now this regulator. or return line blocked to tank.

this is but a start in diagnosis,
if lucky it ends at STAT,  and is first test on all EFI cars,  if the ECT signals engine is cold all the time the ecu runs very rich fuel, and never good that.

[sina27]

Thank you!

I will test / replace the FPRreg if the non of the above resolves my issues. 

I did have a question about power steering - The power steering belt is currently off because (so Im driving it with no PS, pain in the ass). 
The belt is off because when its on, PS fluid is heavily leakiing. Its not coming from the PS pump - it seems to drip from the BOTTOM of the power steering gearbox. 
I noticed there is a seal at the bottom of the PS gearbox, which then connects to the "pitman arm". It seems to be leaking at this seal and dripping all over the pitman arm. 

Would the easiest way to stop this leak to unscrew the big bolt at the bottom of the pitman arm and remove the arm, so I can access the seal at the bottom of the steering gearbox? 
RockAuto has this gearbox rebuild kit which seams to include that big seal. I dont want to remove the entire gearbox, maybe just try changing out the seal at the bottom while its still in the car. 
You think it is possible to do it this simple way? Or should I remove the entire gearbox and attempt rebulding the whole thing using all the parts in the rebuild kit?