1990 tracker -no start FI fuse?

[rjm]

Hello All, what an awesome site. Im seeing fixkick always notes 3 fuses must be good before injector will work:
Ignition fuse /dome fuse and FI fuse. Well I cannot locate this FI fuse -maybe the 1990 does not have this fuse?
 Noid light test fails. Have not tested TPS. It is the last test I need to do. 
please advise on this FI fuse. Thanks rjm

[rjm]

did some interweb digging - I see the 1990 doesn't have said FI fuse. Will be checking the TPS.
all other tests check ok -(following FSM) and this site. Strange it just quit running while idling in garage. 
It WILL start with starting fluid. fuel pump works -xlnt 34psi pressure. Car has been meticulously serviced since new as it was part of corp fleet. California car since new. No codes (except 12 of course)

[fixkick]

did some interweb digging - I see the 1990 doesn't have said FI fuse. Will be checking the TPS.
all other tests check ok -(following FSM) and this site. Strange it just quit running while idling in garage. 
It WILL start with starting fluid. fuel pump works -xlnt 34psi pressure. Car has been meticulously serviced since new as it was part of corp fleet. California car since new. No codes (except 12 of course)

the 89/90 has a married main and FI relay, so is very different.  Gen1 , 91 is Gen2.

the 3rd fuse (2nd you) is DOME and only is for DTC memory so if blown fuse forgets all errors live stored. but does not cut injection, but best good fuse here.

There are many causes if dead injector.
I can list them.
TP pin (gray) of TPS over 3vdc (ground to TPS cut or TPS bad) this over 3vdc voltage there (5v is input power to tps) signals WOT full time cranking and cuts fuel
cranking.



CMP sensor dead, or the brown wire from suppressor to ECU is cut, or grounded out, same wire tachometer grounding out. cuts fuel.
fuse blown or cracks inside them super small unseen.

note the old control relay steals IG-coil power and runs the pump, so is very different this. note my red wire , a corrected error in suzuki  drawings.
Pin A1 must never go dead.
Pin A21 must not hang above 3v, 1vdc is par. above 3vdc is CUT FUEL (magic unflooding mode per operators manual)  

[rjm]

Thanks - been out fighting fires here - back now. TPS looks good - tested as per FSM. I back probed the TPS connection and got 5v at gry/ red wire and just over .5v at grey wire - key on. 
I test resistance at the TPS side of the connector and it checks good per fsm.
I WAS  going to pull the ECU but can’t get the dang mount screw loose. I’m confident this is a virgin ecu.
While under there I noticed a brown wire connected to - what looks like the alarm wire - (yep it has an alarm) - I remember you saying something about alarm drama. Well now I’m going to trace that - and hopefully remove all that alarm nonsense. ( I’m 60 y/o and will not bother getting out of bed for a car alarm anyway! I have no idea If the alarm also disables the fuel - seems a bit odd to me but.... 
I hope this is it - too bad if it is,as the rig is too clean and well maintained otherwise.
Also what is this CMP you speak of - how to test it? I don’t see it in the fsm. Any tips? 
Thanks rjm

[fixkick]

Thanks - been out fighting fires here - back now.
TPS looks good - tested as per FSM. I back probed the TPS connection and got 5v at gry/ red wire and just over .5v at grey wire - key on. 
I test resistance at the TPS side of the connector and it checks good per fsm.

I WAS  going to pull the ECU but can’t get the dang mount screw loose.  ECU is mounted with huge Phillip head screws. #3 head philps,  #2 is normal. USA>
big head screw it is. 6mm thread. ISO.


I’m confident this is a virgin ecu. (all mostly fail for bad caps.  age + heat not good here. for them.


While under there I noticed a brown wire connected to - what looks like the alarm wire - (yep it has an alarm)
you need to De Install any none factory alarms.  (cuts fuel or spark or both) just see where all alarm wires go, where they land and what color suzuki wires do they touch.




- I remember you saying something about alarm drama. (only pain if wired with wire nuts or worse twisted and tape. endless bad with non factor alarms.
most of these cars sold in USA had no alarm. at all.

Well now I’m going to trace that - and hopefully remove all that alarm nonsense. ( I’m 60 y/o and will not bother getting out of bed for a car alarm anyway!

I have no idea If the alarm also disables the fuel - seems a bit odd to me but.... (is this Aftermarket alarm? the wire colors give that away and stickers on side of alarm box too.  alarms work in many ways, in fact random by maker. (their big idea) even cutting dead only fuel pumps and more.

• kills starter
  
• kills fuel at pump
  
• kills spark at distrib.
  
• or worse, see wild wild ideas here,  many bad.  (my kids car had the Alternator killed, and then burned up all wires ther)
  

I hope this is it - too bad if it is,as the rig is too clean and well maintained otherwise.
Also what is this CMP you speak of - how to test it? I don’t see it in the fsm. Any tips?  yes, see end.
Thanks rjm

this is 1990 right,  on any 1990 step one is test spark.
all spark is created inside the distributor, only (and 1 external spark induction coil)

ECU does not make spark at all nor control timing of any spark. (cmp/ VR ignitor is inside the distrib and vaucuum advance and centrifugal advance weights etc.
spark must be tested,

step 1 is check for spark, make sure kids did not open hood and scramble spark wires arround
if spart test passes
try test fuel, in can , see  if engine runs now for 3 seconds,  must. if not spark or timing of cam or spark are wrong.
if cam belt slips, spark does with it. a double timing fail.  fix cam first. always.

I will re read all post , i forget them easy at 72yo  ,ok did.

test for spark first.  using a new spark plug gapped to 0.028" not 0.045 out box size done by robots.
ground the shell of the spark plug and see spark at tip of plug it must be strong.
if looks , ok , use test fuel next.

now to answer your other questions what else.
well key on CEL lamp must glow,
then with DLC connector jumper-ed, for Diagnostic test, jumper it and key on, see code 12 means good .
then crank for 5 full seconds, release key do not turn off the key
got code 41 or 42 that is bad spark primary side,  tells you this , DTC errors this. 

does the tachometer (in the cluster ) move a tiny bet (crank rpm is 200-300rpm) so will move a bit, some do not. depends no battery strength,etc.
5,6,7 all inside the dizzy

diagram

[fixkick]

top no start reasons. common (and cranks fast)
cam belt slipped ,compression not 150 psi but 1/2 that.
no spark bad dizzy (or ig-coil fuse blown.)
fueling dead for many reason, but fuel is last. good engine and good spark is first.

[fixkick]

alarms
i take each wire follow it to its source and put it back to factory stock at each place.
one good reason not to have an alarm. (after market)
is if needing shop work on a car, they then will not do the job or charge 2 times for figuring out which of 100 alarms it is, if even possible this old.
that alarm can be 29 years old, put on a 30 year old car and no documents on it exist now....

non OEM.

[rjm]

fixkick pid='13260' dateline='1600207278']alarms
i take each wire follow it to its source and put it back to factory stock at each place.
one good reason not to have an alarm. (after market)
is if needing shop work on a car,  they then will not do the job or charge 2 times for figuring out which of 100 alarms it is, if even possible this old.
that alarm can be 29 years old, put on a 30 year old car and no documents on it exist now....

non OEM.

Ok - pulled all the alarm wires and cleaned up under dash - actually was a real clean install but now we are back to stock. 1 less concern in future. Still no start! Fires up immediately with starting fluid. Will run on propane torch set up. I pulled the ecu and pics attached for your review.    

[rjm]

alarms
i take each wire follow it to its source and put it back to factory stock at each place.
one good reason not to have an alarm. (after market)
is if needing shop work on a car,  they then will not do the job or charge 2 times for figuring out which of 100 alarms it is, if even possible this old.
that alarm can be 29 years old, put on a 30 year old car and no documents on it exist now....

non OEM.

Ok - pulled all the alarm wires and cleaned up under dash - actually was a real clean install but now we are back to stock. 1 less concern in future. Still no start! Fires up immediately with starting fluid. Will run on propane torch set up. I pulled the ecu and pics attached for your review.


looking to replace those caps:
I suspect the 3 capacitors to be replaced are:

50v  100uf
50v 10uf
50v 47uf OR IS IT 4.7uf ?
I found these at digikey  - all Nichicon brand
UBT1H10MPD1TD (100uf)
UVP1H1DOMED1TD (10uf)
The 4.7 or 47 will also be the UVP series
[size=3][size=3][size=7]Do you consider these acceptable for the application?[/size][/size][/size]

[fixkick]

cap leaks boric acid never good that.
it cause ECU to crash , cranking easy.
I do hope it cleans up easy.

the one in the corner LOVE to fail, leaked, ,dried out or explodes.
loves to for sure RUBICONs for 13 years now, top brand to fail, not nichicon they run long time. for sure the 105deg C caps.
good luck getting any 90 ECU to inject.

TPS not stuck high

did you get code 12 from DLC from ECU CEL flash codes blink, pause blink blink, long pause, repeats./>??
but sure cap leaks there are first order hard failure not to be ignored. clean the board with moms (GF/wife) Bicarb. arm and ammer, with water mixed up in say bottle cap and cue tip to neutralized that nasty boric acid. there ( some even catch fire, well no flames but burns and carbon remains.