Missing oil pressure switch?

[fixkick]

60k is here, it is just a list of things that can not last 300k miles as the engine and trans can go easy.  this is why aircraft do not crash, replaced before fail.
red is my commentary, if running best spark plugs made and engine does not burn oil they can go beyond 60k but gap must be checked,!!! and condition.

[z1joshmon]

Thank you much..ill make sure to be extremely careful when replacing the dizzy o ring to mark the base and bolt while also marking where the rotor is pointing (and get it to point to number 1 cylinder) and yhen when re-assembling: take the time to ensure that i get the distributor back in EXACTLY as i removed it.

Last little question regarding this job: the distributor o ring itself: i was trying to look up the part and o reilly/ the major part stores dont have it listed. Do you know the exact size of the o ring..or have a part number or otherwise helpful advice regarding actually finding and buying the dizzy o ring?

[fixkick]

yes, doing this first makes it super easy to put back, not moving crankshaft till fully done.

sure my oring page covers that.
I have factory P/n still sold at suzuki world wide.
and vitons rings (life time) from USARINGs.com

https://fixkick.com/buy-parts#Dizzy-rings

I used Viton number

VT75- 118 ( Distrib. shaft my best fit by measuring shaft and o-ring. ) [ (7/8 ID X 1-1/16 OD X 3/32 W]

8v only !!!

Viton® 75 Brown 118
they change the Viton names again, making my links wrong,but sure 13 years later me wrong.

https://oringsusa.com/catalog/product_in...d/10106179



for the size codes or trying out new sizes.
see this decoder


https://www.allsealsinc.com/ParcoO-RingSizeChart.pdf

below are my best try as substitions and upgrade to VITON

VT75 -035 (Distributor base in inches, slightly larger od, by.065″ but fits ok ) they dont stock GEO stated mm 55.5 x 1.9mm o-rings. my pick (seal 2.239" x 0.070") the big seal is here for BASE only.
VT75- 118 ( Distrib. shaft my best fit by measuring shaft and o-ring. ) [ (7/8 ID X 1-1/16 OD X 3/32 W crude] mu pick seal actual is .862" x .102"


what I did (not wanting to slather tons of RTV for a seal there, and gee hows that work for setting distrib timing)
I bought 3 sizes of each size (after using my calipers) (back in 2007)
eg: -034, 035 and 036 and 035 won. still a fractions of cost from suzuki with crazy shipping charges and $8 o-rings

see my factory part numbers are on my page,
suzuki web site is a mess, even the drawings there, now have the o-rings missing and if I search for orings get nothing or wrong ones.
but I have the original drawings suzuki lost hell even have paper books called sidekick illustrated parts list super rare now to find.
there are 3 standards
ASE
JIS
and DIN.
what fits best is anyones guess.

suzuki does take orders of there missing parts, using correct numbers.

[z1joshmon]

As usual you are the man!

I have her running way better than she was! No longer losing rpms uphill. Holding temperature.

I still have a few issues though. It's "dieseling" more than it should when i have it warmed up and let off the gas coasting downhill. I smell exhaust when this happens even though its not as fuel rich as before when running rich from being too cool. There are holes in my floorboard though and the muffler doesnt go all the way to the rear of the vehicle and actually have the tailpipe right before the front of rear wheels so I could just be smelling it.

BUT the catalytic converter rattles when i start up. I looked at it while running warm and it seems cause the piping to rattle like..the top of the y piping near the manifold doesnt rattle..the muffler doesnt rattle but it just looks like the cat converter is causing a rattle emanating out both sides from that point.

its only partially clogged for sure..my question is:

Do i replace JUST the cat and pay $100 for it plus however much i have to pay the muffler shop to cut and weld it back on OR do i bite the bullet and pay $250 for one that is prefabricated and includes the y-piping..and is ready to bolt onto the front pipe and muffler? The y piping is rusted and may have small holes..i need to inspect more.

LAST QUESTION: regarding the bogging down and the exhaust.. Do you havr any tips for cleaning the Egr valve? I want to pull and Clean it as i suspect it may be what is causing my bogging down issues because these issues DONT HAPPEN AT IDLE OR LOW SPEED NOR AT HIGH SPEED..I CAN ACCELERATE THRU IT.

UPDATE: all else is well and all repairs and checks done either fixed the problem or were dead on already! I still have a little cleaning of grounds to do..but anyways: when i changed my thermostat and pcv valve..i checked the fuel injectors like u said and the screens were pretty dirty But thank god no leaks so I dont need a new injector. Thank you so much for this advice.

U have literally talked me thru fixing my car completely: saving me thousands of dollars in the process . i entered this not even knowing how a lot of these systems even work but now i do! Thank you so much. When i bought this car I did so because I knew there was this site to help with any issues. Boy was i right!

To anybody reading this who is thinking about buying a tracker or sidekick: if ur willing to do the work..it is worth it!! And lets just face it..they are sexy little trucks that perform.in every way advertised with quality and reliability that people are always looking for but usually dont get..especially with the 8v 3sp 4x4 version i have- ZERO complaints. I love it!!!

[fixkick]

As usual you are the man!

I have her running way better than she was! No longer losing rpms uphill. Holding temperature.

I still have a few issues though. It's "dieseling" more than it should when i have it warmed up and let off the gas coasting downhill. I smell exhaust when this happens even though its not as fuel rich as before when running rich from being too cool. There are holes in my floorboard though and the muffler doesnt go all the way to the rear of the vehicle and actually have the tailpipe right before the front of rear wheels so I could just be smelling it.

BUT the catalytic converter rattles when i start up. I looked at it while running warm and it seems cause the piping to rattle like..the top of the y piping near the manifold doesnt rattle..the muffler doesnt rattle but it just looks like the cat converter is causing a rattle emanating out both sides from that point.

its only partially clogged for sure..my question is:

Do i replace JUST the cat and pay $100 for it plus however much i have to pay the muffler shop to cut and weld it back on OR do i bite the bullet and pay $250 for one that is prefabricated and includes the y-piping..and is ready to bolt onto the front pipe and muffler? The y piping is rusted and may have small holes..i need to inspect more.




LAST QUESTION: regarding the bogging down and the exhaust.. Do you havr any tips for cleaning the Egr valve? I want to pull and Clean it as i suspect it may be what is causing my bogging down issues because these issues DONT HAPPEN AT IDLE OR LOW SPEED NOR AT HIGH SPEED..I CAN ACCELERATE THRU IT.

UPDATE: all else is well and all repairs and checks done either fixed the problem or were dead on already! I still have a little cleaning of grounds to do..but anyways: when i changed my thermostat and pcv valve..i checked the fuel injectors like u said and the screens were pretty dirty But thank god no leaks so I dont need a new injector. Thank you so much for this advice.

U have literally talked me thru fixing my car completely: saving me thousands of dollars in the process . i entered this not even knowing how a lot of these systems even work but now i do! Thank you so much. When i bought this car I did so because I knew there was this site to help with any issues. Boy was i right!

To anybody reading this who is thinking about buying a tracker or sidekick: if ur willing to do the work..it is worth it!! And lets just face it..they are sexy little trucks that perform.in every way advertised with quality and reliability that people are always looking for but usually dont get..especially with the 8v 3sp 4x4 version i have- ZERO complaints. I love it!!!

not sure your meaning on dieseling
on gas engine that does that , that is PINGING or more accurately Detonation, and piston destruction mode. (lean burn or  super advance spark or dead EGR)
EGR cuts HOX and also ends all PINGING on this engine, a 2 fold fix and 3rd fold cuts NOX so the CAT does not wreck its 3way cat NOX feature .
your cat is dead, if you smell fumes in the drives set window closed that means holes in the body of car, and bad cat and or holes in the exhaust pipes,,etc.
windows open smells is bad cat. and or holed up front headers.

A dead cat , with those short pipes will stick like hell.  and CO is a big danger on cars,  that is why the tail pipe is on rear end of left side of bumper.
CO is man killer and guess what all sidekicks love to make CO for sure in limphome mode or way too high fuel pressure.
cars are designed to be safe when engine happy and not happy and dumping lots of CO ( carbon DiOxide  the silent killer of man) NOX is bad too burned eyes.
all monolithic  CATS (means not gravel/pellets   type seen on some toyota's) the CAT inside is BRICK an honeycomb brick and all old cats break up inside
and the rattle as they do that and then break more until the brick is GONE Totally.  all do that this old, it  is not new. all do it.
some rattle so bad will  make any driver go batty. for sure, even cruising noise.

you only have 2 choice,  a full header back kit . Like what
or run on cat at all. but no holes allowed, and pipe goes full rear. for no stink parked at stop signs. nasty stink it will be. (like 1960s cars or older)

with no CAT or it is gutted or blown out or rod'ed out. fully the EGR is now 100% dead, if you like that ?

if not smog tests , many just run no CAT, sure the exhaust is nasty full of NOX,.
this car is sold on south sea islands (example 1) CALLED the JDP, version no CAT no EGR, at all. and different ECU sure.


EGR cleaning, why do that when with no CAT or blown out, the EGR is now dead
the EGR valve uses CAT back pressures to do its job on this car, no cat no egr.
no need to clean a dead EGR ever, due to modulator off line stated, CAT gone or blown out.


wow if I saved you 1000 bucks, that makes me so happy, love to help on old cars i do.


ever put marbles in a tin can orbucket and shake it , and hear that rattling sound that is sound of PING'ing
do not allow that to happen.  
EGR ends ping but better fuel does to ,high octane, with EGR working low octane is ok.

if no working EGR , try the better fuel or run some retarded spark
if hood label shows, -5 Degr. BTDC static timed drop to 3 deg. or 2. see of ping ends only if it is.

[fixkick]

diesel sounds or smoke? or just smell?
new torbo diesels do not smoke now, that ended long ago. TDI. born, mechanical inject pumps gone.
so is this a sound or just smoke or some smell. IDK.
long ago diesel fuel sold in USA removed all Sulfur from the fuel making zero smell.. just some tiny NOX, no CO, and lots of CO, same CO humans expel.
modern Diesel have NOX scrubbers, (like the ones VW failed to do right or lied sure)
it is best not to even conflict gas with diesel. (
yes a gas engine can ping, have friend down in Argentina with his old head now milled 4 times, and pings like a pig, so we retard spark huge.
all heads imported there are stolen in customs, or before. (truckers)
the cure is 4 head gaskets, if you can imagine that folly.

if the sound is there, that very very bad pinging. never run a car gas that pings. ever or boom damaged huge soon.

pinging should never happen at cold or hot idle, cold is too rich rich kills dead ping.
it happens under load, for sure of 5sp and logging 4th gear up a hill, failing to down shift correctly and bingo it pings. (if EGR if dead only) (no wild head mills)

most folks now do not even know what ping is nor ever heard it, that is because (not yours) new cars have dynamic ping sensors in the head, that lets the ECU even stop a ping even in 1 cyclinder using wild and magic like , dynamic spark retardation strategies.
back in my days with old CARB engines we tuned the spark by hand (fly weights) and advance to just be shy of the ping point under full engine load driving
that is correct, tune drive tune repeat.
so we know what ping is and all ways to end it. do.
scotty is king of videos. talks fast but topic is complex. so... fast , learn to slow videos down.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UqLXwN2GNeU
this guy could be my brother, he has my same brain. we trust nothing and prove other wise
watch this video on noise, see that large screw driver, ? he uses, then watch the mechanic in DAS BOOT movie do the same thing, NOTHING NEW here back to 1920's , my GF was a mechanic in 1940s to 60s. he died in a gas fire in garage pit from smoker.(+gasoline)

knocking+ping+detonation all are same ,but not same words.
basic noise is not ping, we learn to know that difference, or bark wrong trees.
ping is when gasoline does not simply burn, it is when it detonates. (never good)

one more last name for dieseling, sound, is when you turn he ignition key off engine keeps running.
this is seen on CARB cars. no spark but runs still. keyed off, this is due to a great running engine but the carb key off cut fuel solenoid is bad. stuck open.
A carb and mech pump sends fuel any time engine is pumping air. so can keep running, with no spark, KINDA like and old diesel can, all mech. injected.

[fixkick]

" It's "dieseling" more than it should when i have it warmed up and let off the gas coasting downhill."

I do not know what that means sorry, most folks today this means sounds like diesel (old pinging)
back long ago. engine runs key off, is dieseling. (carb cars, all vw bugs did this and most chev, and ford back then)

if engine maKE FUNNY SOUNDS do tell when, under what conditions.

A no CAT engine will stink bad, for sure windows down. horrible and nasty.

[fixkick]

i can only guess diesel word means  early cars diesel stink and or black cloud.
like these, diesels.


https://youtu.be/s--NEECfbWE?t=237

no TDI here.

https://youtu.be/DzQ4DJ6sH68?t=30

sounds, smoke and smells.
3 senses

[z1joshmon]

oh hey sorry for the late reply. by dieseling I meant the timing was slightly too far advanced and it was causing it to combust even after I let off the gas. I've heard of some cars continuing to run even after shut off and mine was not like that but rather when I let off of the gas it was continuing to fire for just a little while and then stop. I got it fixed. but yes it SMELLED and still does a bit.. which is something I want to get at..

it's running great in fact. except for the exhaust problem? I got up underneath there really good and I have 2 holes in the exhaust on the Y piping in between the exhaust manifold and the catalytic converter. It's shot like you said. I'm going to fix those holes for the short term but the exhaust manifold and the muffler are both good with the muffler having been replaced.. so I wouldnt need the full header back kit.

I could get by with just buying the Y pipe section w/ cat for $200ish bucks -or- buy the cat for $75 and fix those 2 holes in the y-pipe and cut/weld the new cat on. that would eliminate all exhaust leaks and get it back away from me a bit too by adding the tailpipe past the muffler so it's not so short, only $22 for that tailpipe piece.

I believe the other thing you said would be to just delete cat and extend the tailpipe like above. fix those exhaust leaks. I have access to a buddy with a welder until I get my little flux core one, but do you have any opinion on those muffler putties to get me through for a few weeks? I am also having to weld my floorboard- you've mentioned CO before and see my problem now I am sure... exhaust leak right under driver seat; floorboard holes right under passenger seat. explains the smell LOL I am learning as I go but yea I have my welder friend, he's a union welder out of montana, who is going to help me in a few weeks with those holes.

What do you think on the exhaust? Sorry for leaving you hanging so long on the dieseling thing. All of that is good to know information! I have built a full list and just tore through my car off of all of your suggestions and this is one happy little 8v. So many parts were original.. PVC valve lol fuel filter, I have the Viton Brown 75-118 for shaft and Viton Brown 75-035 for base both otw for that job.

Thanks to YOU this is practically a new little truck.

[fixkick]

when you lift right foot off the gas pedal 100-% the Idle switch inside the TPS closes, and goes to 0vdc from 5v.
then the ECU cuts fuel in like 10/1000th of a second, to humans instantly,  all  EFI cars gasoline, go to cut fuel mode.
make sure the switch works and set the timingfreeze jumper to set static 800 hot idle advance to hood sticker spec, BTDC>
if the idle switch fails freeze jumper goes dead.  no freeze and advance bounces like crazy (normal  that) but not with freeze jumper..

just fix the 2 hole see how it runs, patched.  cheap welded.

im am not sure the muffler patch putty works so many to try.  but I hear some last for awhile. 1month? iDK  (and sure for testing yah)

sounds all great. 

having power with foot of the gas pedal is not good, at all,  means fuel is not cut, when it should.
spark advanced or not.   after all spark is useless with no fuel so is fuel problem.
if you mean lifting the foot off fuel a bit not full foot  removal sure.  that is bad too of wrong.

Those exhaust leaks can suck back oxgyen from Air to the 02  sensor, and make it go NUTS.
no leaks allowed near 02 front, on any car.
on 1996 cars  up , you get a code for but not this OBD1 car.

what you heard is like on carb cars, you lift the foot with gas pack muffs and she rumbles like mad a "Happy days sound we loved"
that is because the carb never ever cuts fuel like EFI does so well.
the engine is running rich now, so at cut fuel there is still fuel in the engine and down stream and is really (holes) muffler or header backfire, the oxygen add to the back firing. and is load out the holes.

I think just fix the holes first see what happens, for sure good, for sure better, and more ?

on hot engine fuel burn stops (cut fuel) (not rich) instantly, nothing there to burn no lingering fuel in the top end. so no fuel to burn.
no leaking injectors. sure.

the 8v exh  man/header does not ever crack like 16v love to do
just has 3 studs on the header end, and  gasket. there.
some the exh man is cast iron, below is steel , CRS mild.

i am confused by Y pipe  oops suzuki had it too.
or
sounds like to me a DOUG Thorley header or CALMINI

http://www.dougthorleyheaders.com/suzuki...34/681/all

stock is, shields off.

suzuki, 8v. nice and thick. no crack IRON


 ok stock has y  pipe to, I forget so looked it  up. 2 pipe to cat.